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Project: Passive-Aggressive (Thunderbird Content)


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Posted (edited)

@binky_bass saw a T'Bird in CackConverters, and posted a thread...

I had a hearty Spag Bol, Garlic Flat Bread, and half a bottle of cheap Malbec, so was a bit vulnerable...

Next thing i know Russian Activists hacked my brain via Stolichnaya Vodka, they no longer need mobile phones and computer viruses, they can attack at the Alcohol/Molecular Level... who knew?... so be careful.

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T P-Bird Pro, Thru Neck, Improved Bridge, Active Model in Natural Finish...

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But, the Pickups in the Active Model are Low-Alcohol, Half-Fat models at 7k rather than a Proper-Pint, Double-Cream 14k versions of the passive model.

Oh What to do?.. a quick search of the classifieds turned up @mike 110 and a DiMarzio Model 1... A 'Match' made by the Hard-of-Hearing!

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So going Single Mudbucker at the Neck/Mid Position, Empty Cavity at the Bridge, A500k Vol, and Pure Tone Jack Socket and will be wearing Olympia Stainless Steel Flatwounds.

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Cavity is 92mm, Pup 90mm so reasonable fit, maybe a shim of veneer?, Width is gonna need a 4mm chiselin' a side to go from 40mm to 48 for the coils, String / Pole spacing is a little tight at 48mm, 52mm would be Bang-On for the Neck/Mid position, 'spose they are meant for a more up against the fretboard fitting. Might need some wood blocks glued in for the pickup mounting screws.

 

Putting the Thunder back in Thunderbird...

Edited by PaulThePlug
  • Like 11
Posted

Bizarrely, I'd love to fit a couple of single coil soapbars to a T'bird.

 

It'll be interesting to see how this one turns out, there's a picture of Lemmy when he was in Hawkwind playing a T'bird with a muducker in the neck position.

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

DiMarzio Model One turned up thanks to @mike 110

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Need to enlarge the cavity 3mm - 1/8" off each wall, 2 3/4" - 70mm Wide, to a Depth of 5/8" - 16mm...

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1" Chisel?

Can i take a 1" x 1/8" slice or do i need to do it in 2 or 3 thinner slices?

Any Tips?

I think i'd be there all day with the Dremmel and sanding sleeve coming of the spindle all the bloody time... and not the drill after the Aria J to P debacle!

Never used a Wood Chisel, only a knife for cutting the 'ol Cheddar or...

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Edited by PaulThePlug
  • Like 1
Posted

The great thing about the Model One is that the top sits flush with the bass body and has a generous overlap to hide many sins @PaulThePlug  :D

 

Personally, I would :

 

- I would first line up the chisel (if I was using a 'factory sharpened, DIY Store' chisel straight out the packet, I would use a narrower chisel (probably 1/2") as that will cut easier than a wider one) along each of the lines and give it a light tap with a hammer or mallet to break the grain accurately along the full borders of the cut    

 

- personally I would drill down to depth first with a 3mm drill all along between the cut line and edge, to remove the bulk, keeping the drill bit as vertical as I can (the corner of a matchbox or similar sitting on the bass top near to where you are drilling is a great guide to see if your drill is perpendicular to the top). 

 

- I would then use the chisel to clear the remaining wood left between the drill holes, again using light taps with a hammer or mallet.  I would start at the middle of the holes to clear the wood nearest the chamber edge and then, with the remaining wave lines towards the new edge, remove the wood a couple of mm (or less) at a time and just creep up to the new marked line.  That way, you never have a large piece of wood breaking off and taking stuff off you don't want removed with it!! 

 

 

  • Thanks 1
Posted
1 hour ago, Andyjr1515 said:

The great thing about the Model One is that the top sits flush with the bass body and has a generous overlap to hide many sins @PaulThePlug  :D

Don't know what ya mean... 🙄

Arai - Saved by the Scratchplate

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Ibby - Diggin' a trench for the Maida Vale Stacked Jazz

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Alright... I got previous... 🤣

which is why i asked... 🤔

  • Haha 1
Posted (edited)

Postman has been... again, again

 

Olympia Flats, £15 via the 'bay - Amy and Guy, Advantage Music

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Pure Tone Multi Contact Jack, two spring tabs on the sleeve, two spring tabs on the tip groove for a real locked in feel - £8 via the 'bay WMGuitars.

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Edited by PaulThePlug
  • Like 2
Posted (edited)

Could only get a 6mm Chisel, easy does it, then a little go with a Dremmel sanding drum, bit of Danish oil to seal the wood... that will do for me...

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String to Pole alignment is not so bad... little cavity gap top and bottom.

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Wre it up... string it up... oh, and fit the top Strap Button to the neck heel... 3.45Kg

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What do you think? #PassiveAgressive

Edited by PaulThePlug
  • Like 6
Posted (edited)

Just a little tidy up rubber bung for spare no longer used control holes.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/285510757363 A=8.5mm

 

Edited by PaulThePlug
  • Like 1
Posted

The Olympia Flats E... thick part makes it on the peg... 'prolly due to the short Saddle to Stop compared to a 3 Point?.. And the Silks line up, Oh the simple things...

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Bass Cosh!

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From this angle the Headstock looks as big as the body!.. 'scuse the thumb print...

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  • Like 8

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