Beedster Posted September 26 Share Posted September 26 Folks I have an old Jazz body that was once Oly White but now a lovely nicotine yellow. A previous owner has however overpainted the back, which has some serious buckle rash, in white. I have no idea what paint they've used, but it looks quite thinly applied. I'd like to get that new finish off the back but leave as much of the original worn finish as possible. Importantly where the original finish is worn through to the wood I'd also like to explose the wood if possible. Gut feel is several hours with sandpaper which will at least allow me some control of the just how much of the finish comes away, but I'm happy to hear better suggestions if you happen to have any 👍 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beedster Posted September 26 Author Share Posted September 26 Some pics Front (in case you're not aware that this is the front), lovely aged, yellowed, cracked.... Back, you can see the buckle rash and other wear under the new finish 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ezbass Posted September 26 Share Posted September 26 I think you’re bang on with sandpaper. Try a small area to see if it actually reveals the original, yellowed finish. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bloke_zero Posted September 27 Share Posted September 27 I'm wondering about a small amount of solvent on a cotton pad - if it wasn't too wet and you were super careful - you could always try a small spot and see. Sandpaper I'd worry that it would be hard to not take off the top layer of nitro. I am claiming no expertise! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doctor J Posted September 28 Share Posted September 28 I'd try T-Cut before sandpaper. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JPJ Posted September 30 Share Posted September 30 Personally, I think you’ll be lucky to sand through the new paint and leave the aging on the original paint intact. Sandpaper might be way too aggressive unless you are thinking of 2000 grit and above wet sanded. Might be worth trying some alcohol rubbed with wire wool first to see how easy the new paint releases from the old? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigRedX Posted October 1 Share Posted October 1 Weird how some "mojo" is acceptable and some isn't 😉 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crusoe Posted October 1 Share Posted October 1 I'd go with @bloke_zero's suggestion - the way you see museum art restorers doing it on paintings to remove old, yellowing varnish. try it on a small area with a cotton bud first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaulThePlug Posted October 1 Share Posted October 1 Isoprope or naptha (lighter fluid) on a rag... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beedster Posted October 12 Author Share Posted October 12 So, this is where I've got to........ Very light sandpaper revealed that under the white paint a previous owner appears to have sanded the original finish before applying the paint (where the finish is worn through to the wood is very very smooth, and while there's enough original finish to work with - on which the lovely checking is still visible - even that has signs of previous quite heavy sanding. Also looks like there's been a repair under the rout, I'd guess a battery compartment was installed and then filled. Think I'm going to do some very mild relicing to the wood so that it matches the feel and colour of the other areas of bare wood which are significantly darker. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueMoon Posted October 12 Share Posted October 12 1 hour ago, Beedster said: Think I'm going to do some very mild relicing to the wood so that it matches the feel and colour of the other areas of bare wood which are significantly darker. I’ve found freshly used tea-bags surprisingly effective on bare wood areas, although I’m no expert on relic-ing. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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