PaulThePlug Posted October 6 Posted October 6 (edited) Stringing my T'bird with Olympia Flats i came across a bit of an issue... The Blurb for the strings clearly states: Ensure your headstock winding peg is further than 38" away from where the ball end sits in the bridge. My T'Bird Pro has a more modern bridge than the old 3 Point Classic. I think shorter, with less of a gap between Ball End Stop and Saddle. Maybe as much as half an inch? Typical! My Epic Epi is measuring up at 37 1/2"... with the Thick part of the string nearly halfway round the peg Skinny Fishtail Peg, might of only been less than a Quarter with a thicker Elephant Ear Peg... Anyone Experience anything similar? Edited October 6 by PaulThePlug Quote
Guest Posted October 6 Posted October 6 ½" of metal tube round the string, next to the ball end, to move the ball end ½" away from the bridge? Quote
PinkMohawk Posted October 6 Posted October 6 That's like, a quarter inch difference. It's not gonna matter. 1 Quote
PaulThePlug Posted October 6 Author Posted October 6 5 hours ago, Supernaut said: Er, what's the issue? Some of the thick part of the E string going around the peg... Quote
deepbass5 Posted October 16 Posted October 16 (edited) This is something that annoys me too, with many manufacturers. they try to accommodate all sorts of bass with just a description of (long scale) and if there are dimensions given they're not always translatable to your bass. I have got round this previously by adding string through Ferrels on the E string or B & E. Pictured is my old schack 5. But I also did this on my brand new Bubinga bodied Schack and drilled an E & B. It is far more drastic than an extension tube at the bridge suggested above, but a better long term solution. On my Shuker build course bass i went for a reverse headstock design that put the G string closest to the nut and B string double that distance so has not got a problem of heavy string round winding post or string wrap over the nut. Edited October 16 by deepbass5 1 Quote
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