DIY Pedalboard - 3d printed & Aluminium Extrustions 400mm x 300mm

[rwillett]

I had loads of cables over my pedalboard, not everything is the right length. One of the nice things about 2040 aluminium is that it's in use in CNC machines and 3d printers, so somebody somewhere has probably had a similar problem to you, in my case cable clips for too long cables.

 

Found this on Printables.com https://www.printables.com/model/15228-yacc-yet-another-cable-clip-for-openbuilds-v-slot-/files

 

Lots of different clips that simply <ahem> clip into the aluminium. Push cables through and that's it. No cable ties, dead easy and dirt cheap.

 

 

Edited November 9, 2024 by rwillett

[rwillett]

A slight design change. I'd used the handles as designed by the original people. These handles sat on the top of the board and screwed into the v-slots using t-nuts. They also took up valuable space.

 

One of the really nice things about V/T-slot extrusion is they have things like 5mm holes in the end. These holes can be tapped with a M5 tap set, so pulled mine out the garage and tapped eight holes. I can now screw M5 bolts in.

 

 

The design for the original handles wasn't quite right, so I did them all again so that the handles covered the end of the extrusions properly.

 

 

It looks very nice from the bottom

 

 

and from the top

 

 

Really pleased with this, if anybody is interested, I'll happily make one for the price of the parts and a donation to Andy's BC donation fund

 

Rob

 

 

 

Edited November 15, 2024 by rwillett

[rwillett]

After using the pedalboard I then found out that it's quite difficult to hit the pedals on the back of the board without hitting the foot switches on the front. I could easy break the pedalboard into one long boards but I'd like to keep it in two rows. So I made some pedal risers that are 25mm higher. Not sure if that's enough but I'll try that to start.

 

I created two designs in F360, one a rectangular one for pedals that aren't too wide, the Mod Dwarf is an example of this, long and thin - 200mm x 100mm, and an H shaped one for wider pedals, such as the ToneX, which is 170mm x 140mm. It's all parametrised in F360 so making it 10mm longer or wider or higher is trivial. Takes about 3-4 hours per riser to print. I've stood on them so they are pretty strong.

 

   

There are holes through for cable management. These are the horizontal holes, I made sure that a Cioks cables fits through and it easily does both horizontally and vertically.

 

The vertical holes are for screwing the risers to the aluminium extrusion. Eight screws is massive overkill so I only use four of them, they are there in case I change the design or I make this into a production ready design and need more options. Design it in now and then forget about it. The horizontal sections are 25mm wide and so 20mm Velcro nicely fits.

 

This is without Velcro

 

and with velcro and a ToneX pedal.

 

 

Works well and is very sturdy.

Rob

 

 

 

Edited November 18, 2024 by rwillett

[rwillett]

So after a lot of thinking over Xmas, I decided I didn't like the pedalboard that I downloaded from elsewhere and wanted to design my own so that's its smaller in height, quicker to print, looks a lot better and has exactly the same surface areas as before. I might even sell them if I get any interest

 

Here's the design, its about 20mm lower than before, prints around twice as quick as before, is just as strong as before. Each piece can take 100Kg of weight, so between them, that's over 600Kg so it'll support the corner of a small car, it uses less filament (50%) than before and has the same surface area as the old design. It still uses the same 20x40mm aluminium extrusion but now it looks a lot neater as the extrusion fits into the sides rather than sits on top of the sides. I also raised the back by 25mm so there is no need for risers under a pedal.  This is now designed properly so I can easily adapt it to make it wider or taller or longer.

 

The Cioks power supply will still go underneath it and be bolted to the bottom of the extrusions.

 

I'm printing this up now and will post pictures when it's done.

Rob

[LukeFRC]

On 18/11/2024 at 17:44, rwillett said:

After using the pedalboard I then found out that it's quite difficult to hit the pedals on the back of the board without hitting the foot switches on the front. I could easy break the pedalboard into one long boards but I'd like to keep it in two rows. So I made some pedal risers that are 25mm higher. Not sure if that's enough but I'll try that to start.

 

I created two designs in F360, one a rectangular one for pedals that aren't too wide, the Mod Dwarf is an example of this, long and thin - 200mm x 100mm, and an H shaped one for wider pedals, such as the ToneX, which is 170mm x 140mm. It's all parametrised in F360 so making it 10mm longer or wider or higher is trivial. Takes about 3-4 hours per riser to print. I've stood on them so they are pretty strong.

 

   

There are holes through for cable management. These are the horizontal holes, I made sure that a Cioks cables fits through and it easily does both horizontally and vertically.

 

The vertical holes are for screwing the risers to the aluminium extrusion. Eight screws is massive overkill so I only use four of them, they are there in case I change the design or I make this into a production ready design and need more options. Design it in now and then forget about it. The horizontal sections are 25mm wide and so 20mm Velcro nicely fits.

 

This is without Velcro

 

and with velcro and a ToneX pedal.

 

 

Works well and is very sturdy.

Rob

 

 

 

 a @rwillett custom riser for a h9 - it raises the front by more than the back - so I can get at the foot switches but it’s not massively increasing the height of my board - top jacks of pedals will be able to tuck underneath the front of the h9 too. It’s pretty amazing - thanks!

[sifi2112]

45 minutes ago, rwillett said:

So after a lot of thinking over Xmas, I decided I didn't like the pedalboard that I downloaded from elsewhere and wanted to design my own so that's its smaller in height, quicker to print, looks a lot better and has exactly the same surface areas as before. I might even sell them if I get any interest

 

Here's the design, its about 20mm lower than before, prints around twice as quick as before, is just as strong as before. Each piece can take 100Kg of weight, so between them, that's over 600Kg so it'll support the corner of a small car, it uses less filament (50%) than before and has the same surface area as the old design. It still uses the same 20x40mm aluminium extrusion but now it looks a lot neater as the extrusion fits into the sides rather than sits on top of the sides. I also raised the back by 25mm so there is no need for risers under a pedal.  This is now designed properly so I can easily adapt it to make it wider or taller or longer.

 

The Cioks power supply will still go underneath it and be bolted to the bottom of the extrusions.

 

I'm printing this up now and will post pictures when it's done.

Rob

Looks great Rob  .. I might have to commission one !

[MrDinsdale]

Very cool!!! 

[rwillett]

So after quite a lot of fiddling, I've now 'finished' two pedalboards.

 

I've reduced the number of screws, tidied up the design, raised the back two rows of the four row pedalboard, made sure the two row compact pedalboard (which is a different design) has enough space under for power supplies. I no longer need tap-on extrusion ends so it looks an awful lot nicer.

 

The red one is 400mm wide and the white is 300mm. I'm quite pleased with the white version, didn't think it would be so good. There is no Velcro on the white one yet. Both can easily take me standing on them. I suspect they could take two of me as there's no flex at all.

 

 

 

This has the last two rows 25mm higher. This avoids having to make a riser for the pedals.

 

 

 

If anybody is interested in having one made to measure, please let me know.

 

Thanks

 

Rob

[Si600]

3 hours ago, rwillett said:

If anybody is interested in having one made to measure, please let me know.

Hell yeah! But really, do I need it? Feck no!

 

I'll have a measure up and a serious think, but don't hold your breath! 

[Si600]

Must resist temptation....

 

So, with that in mind, a few questions about the red one.  With 400mm extrusions what's the overal width of it?  What's its overall depth and how high is it at the front and at the back.

 

I need a new PSU unfortunately if I do go this route.  Sadly for me there's a Cioks DC-7 2nd gen for sale in the effects section.  Or was.

Edited January 13 by Si600

[rwillett]

Si

 

I will do my best not to tempt you. I promise...

 

Length is the long dimension, so length is 406mm as there is 3mm of "end" to hide the ends of the extrusion. You can have any length up to around 1m.

 

Width is the front to back and is variable (talking serious now). I can adjust the spacing between the bars easily. Currently the width is 345mm and the height is 112mm. That's with the back two rows raised by 25mm.

 

Just about every dimension is driven from parameters. So what can be changed:

 

1. The space between the extrusions. Currently 45mm.

2. The angle of the tope of the pedalboard.

3. The back riser height. This is 25mm.

4. The front height (where the circle is above).

 

And to be honest, just about everything else can be changed.

 

I attach my DC-7 under the back two rows. I designed a U bracket to fit so it clamps in. Why do you need to buy a new PSU? If it's flatish, just put some u brackets on it and bolt it in.

 

I also designed cable management clips that fit and unfit by hand, they simply clip into the extrusion. I put my Cioks cables through them to keep them neat and tidy. These can be any (sensible) length. I tend to use smaller ones and simply use more of them.

 

 

Hopefully not tempted you in the slightest.

Rob

[Si600]

I hate you.  It's probably going to fit my flight case as is. https://theflightcasecompany.com/gb01-guitar-effect-pedal-board-flight-case

 

 

53 minutes ago, rwillett said:

 

I attach my DC-7 under the back two rows. I designed a U bracket to fit so it clamps in. Why do you need to buy a new PSU? If it's flatish, just put some u brackets on it and bolt it in.

 

Because my DC-8 doesn't have enough output to run both a TC Electronics ND-1 and a B3n, I use the B3n wall adapter into a socket screwed into the existing wooden riser.  If I get one from you then I need something to provide 12v 300mA and 9v 500mA without using all the outputs.  I could use a three leg doubler, a tripler I suppose, for the Zoom....

Edited January 13 by Si600

[rwillett]

12 minutes ago, Si600 said:

I hate you.  It's probably going to fit my flight case as is. https://theflightcasecompany.com/gb01-guitar-effect-pedal-board-flight-case

 

It normally takes a few meetings with me to move to the hate stage. I feel honoured I've got there so quickly this time, a small measure of achievement in an otherwise dull day.

 

Looking at that flight case, the maximum internal height is 12.5cm. For a pedalboard to fit in there, with a 5cm pedal height (just measured a cheap Behringer) the actual pedalboard would have to be a maximum of 6-7cm high at most. This would mean a very slight angle, and no riser at the back. The 34cm width is easy as is the 48cm length. Depending on how you use the flight case, it could be designed to fit straight in so just take the lid off, or attach to the internal board and take that out.

 

Just seen the DC-8 and checked the power output. Its quite a few output sockets but some of them are 100mA. I see your problem now. You're doubling power sockets from Cioks to get to the right amperage. I have to do something similar to drive the Mod Dwarf at 12V though I use two sockets at 500mA to get there.It claims it needs 2A, I ain't got two amps spare so it gets 1A and no more

 

I'd be a little careful about pushing the Cioks, though I have to say they are excellent kit. Second hand prices on the DC-8 are probably quite high so thats an option. I already have the mounting brackets for a DC-7 designed as I'm using them if that helps

 

Thanks

 

Rob

[Si600]

Do you want the random thoughts about redesigning *your* project for *my* spec here or in a PM?

 

Cioks DC7s are currently around the 180€ on Reverb, as opposed to the 235€ with Thomann.  A Sol is also an option, will I regret not having the extra outputs, or will I regret spending the extra 50€ for outputs that are likely never to get used....

Edited January 14 by Si600

[rwillett]

39 minutes ago, Si600 said:

Do you want the random thoughts about redesigning *your* project for *my* spec here or in a PM?

 

Cioks DC7s are currently around the 180€ on Reverb, as opposed to the 235€ with Thomann.  A Sol is also an option, will I regret not having the extra outputs, or will I regret spending the extra 50€ for outputs that are likely never to get used....

Si

 

Happy either way. I would welcome your thoughts and if you wish to do this via PM thats fine. I'm trying to make these pedalboards as easy to make and build as possible and your thoughts and how you wish to use them are as valid as anybody else's. If you have an unusual project and you'd prefer to keep it just top the two of us, that's OK. I really welcome all input both good and bad, if I don't know what people don't like, I can't make them any better.

 

I have the DC-7 and think it's great. Its got enough outputs for me to use and I do like the USB output as well. Everybody has a different value point though and use case.

 

Thanks

Rob

[MichaelDean]

I keep having intrusive thoughts about integrating one of the Harley Benton PowerBars into one of these. I don't need more power on my pedalboard, I don't even need a new booard. But I'm still thinking about it 😅

 

https://www.thomann.co.uk/search_dir.html?smcs=81f6e8_6233&sw=spaceship power bar&sp=bloomreach&category[]=GIEFNT&cme=true&filter=true

[Si600]

8 minutes ago, MichaelDean said:

I keep having intrusive thoughts about integrating one of the Harley Benton PowerBars into one of these. I don't need more power on my pedalboard, I don't even need a new booard. But I'm still thinking about it 😅

 

https://www.thomann.co.uk/search_dir.html?smcs=81f6e8_6233&sw=spaceship power bar&sp=bloomreach&category[]=GIEFNT&cme=true&filter=true

Och, get tae hell you, I didn't need to know they were a thing.  Not a bad solution though.....

 

9 minutes ago, rwillett said:

Si

 

Happy either way. I would welcome your thoughts and if you wish to do this via PM thats fine. I'm trying to make these pedalboards as easy to make and build as possible and your thoughts and how you wish to use them are as valid as anybody else's. If you have an unusual project and you'd prefer to keep it just top the two of us, that's OK. I really welcome all input both good and bad, if I don't know what people don't like, I can't make them any better.

 

I have the DC-7 and think it's great. Its got enough outputs for me to use and I do like the USB output as well. Everybody has a different value point though and use case.

 

Thanks

Rob

 

My thoughts were initially to put two more rails at the bottom under the top rearmost two for things that can just sit there and won't need changing very often, the PSU and compressor spring to mind.  Then the DI can sit on the top at the back along with a.n.other thing that will need printing....  The forward lower tray then holds the B3n, tuner and the amp channel footswitch.  I really need to measure up my case and confirm it's the one I linked!

Edited January 14 by Si600

[rwillett]

@MichaelDean

 

Thats an interesting option. I'd add that in by extending out the pedalboard sides to accommodate the power rail, no idea about the fixings but that's probably just a detail. I'd then cut the aluminium extrusion so its the same length (600mm) and it all matches up.

 

Rob

[rwillett]

Just now, Si600 said:

Och, get tae hell you, I didn't need to know they were a thing.  Not a bad solution though.....

Thats two of us. Not bad value either.

 

1 minute ago, Si600 said:

 

My thoughts were initially to put two more rails at the bottom under the top rearmost two for things that can just sit there and won't need changing very often, the PSU and compressor spring to mind.  Then the DI can sit on the top at the back along with a.n.other thing that will need printing....  The forward lower tray then holds the B3n, tuner and the amp channel footswitch.

 

Don't forget that the aluminium extrusion has slots for things to fit underneath the rails without having to put two additional new rails on the bottom. That's how I mount my DC-7. Basically I suspend them upside down using purpose made U bolts. Velco also works but I like something that's fixed. I'm a bit old fashioned that way.

 

Here's a picture of one U bolt on the DC-7 fastened into the aluminium. There's a reasonable amount of space there but it clearly depends on how high the back rails are.  There's also the sides of the aluminium which are 20mm high. I tend to use the sides for cable management, there's some pictures of that earlier in the thread.

 

[Si600]

38 minutes ago, rwillett said:

@MichaelDean

 

Thats an interesting option. I'd add that in by extending out the pedalboard sides to accommodate the power rail, no idea about the fixings but that's probably just a detail. I'd then cut the aluminium extrusion so its the same length (600mm) and it all matches up.

 

Rob

Or... and this is just on the fly, print up a couple of tabs that match the extrusion rails and a countersunk hole that matches the PSU and mount it with that.  I'd use the 400mm one so it fits between the end pieces.

 

How much were you thinking of charging for the printed components?

[MichaelDean]

Just measured up the flight case my pedalboard lives in. 600mm. Lordy.

[rwillett]

12 minutes ago, MichaelDean said:

Just measured up the flight case my pedalboard lives in. 600mm. Lordy.

Oh dear....

[rwillett]

18 minutes ago, Si600 said:

Or... and this is just on the fly, print up a couple of tabs that match the extrusion rails and a countersunk hole that matches the PSU and mount it with that.  I'd use the 400mm one so it fits between the end pieces.

 

How much were you thinking of charging for the printed components?

Si

 

It could be mounted in any number of ways:

 

1. It could be an extra rail that sits behind the last aluminium extrusion, that makes it wider.

2. It could sit underneath the aluminium extrusion and so not take up any extra width.  That means the board might be a little higher.

3. It could attach to the aluminium extrusion directly on either the back OR the bottom of the aluminium extrusion. Not sure what the impact is here TBH. Also not sure how to fix it. I've looked at the web page and can't see anything like measurements and fixings and useful stuff like that,

 

If you are interested, lets work out what you actually want to do, then see what it might cost.

 

Rob

[Si600]

22 minutes ago, rwillett said:

3. It could attach to the aluminium extrusion directly on either the back OR the bottom of the aluminium extrusion. Not sure what the impact is here TBH. Also not sure how to fix it. I've looked at the web page and can't see anything like measurements and fixings and useful stuff like that,

 

I think it mounts using the threaded feet, but the web page isn't clear.  They're 50 x 30 x X, I'd assume 30mm deep and 50mm wide.

 

It does: 

 

 

22 minutes ago, rwillett said:

If you are interested, lets work out what you actually want to do, then see what it might cost.

Will do.  A red one but probably without the step as it doesn't seem to fit in my case.  I'll measure what I've got currently and be back later.

 

 

@Woodinblack has one, we could ask him to measure it up.... 

Edited January 14 by Si600

[rwillett]

25 minutes ago, Si600 said:

I think it mounts using the threaded feet, but the web page isn't clear.  They're 50 x 30 x X, I'd assume 30mm deep and 50mm wide.

 

Will do.  A red one but probably without the step as it doesn't seem to fit in my case.  I'll measure what I've got currently and be back later.

 

 

@Woodinblack has one, we could ask him to measure it up.... 

 

I think it mounts using the feet as well. My guess is that it will be a M5 or M6 thread, as its German (is it?) it'll use a metric thread and I'll have a bolt that fits.

 

I've just blown up my design model fiddling with it, blown up here means that things that were settled now produce lots of errors and I need to debug it. I may just take the sketches and start again. Fusion 360 is like a really bad development IDE for programming. The workflow wants you to use parametric design but make one little error and BANG, nothing works. However there is no issue making the pedalboard just about any height any length and just about any width (once I redo it).

 

Lets see what @Woodinblack says.

Rob