Sanding bridge feet ?

[hpc364]

Hi !

 

Another weird question, is it a bag idea to sand bridge feet in order to lower the string action ?

[TheRev]

You could sand the bridge feet, but it's easier to sand down the top of the bridge.

 

The feet are shaped to fit the top of your bass. If you sand too much off in the wrong place you won't get full contact between the bridge and bass and that will affect the tone.

[Hellzero]

Lowering the feet of your bridge isn't that complicated: Simply "stick" a piece of sandpaper on the top of your instrument (this will follow the shape) and then sand slowly and neatly following the strings length.

 

If you work as explained, you'll have a full contact bridge.

[NickA]

Usually a bad idea.  If properly fitted there shouldnt be much wood thickness left in the feet. Apart from the difficulty of getting the shape correct, you may end up with feet that are too thin.  Easier to deepen the string slots in the top of the bridge then, when you're happy with the action, file the top of the bridge down so it's half a string diameter or so above the bottom of the slots.

 

Note that lowering the bridge will reduce the pressure on the front of the bass and that will alter the sound.  Usually makes it quieter and less rich.

It may not be critical on a factory built laminate bass... also less critical if you're using a pickup and amp.

 

Also..be careful when removing the bridge, the sound post may fall down, then you have to pay someone to put it back up! 

 

I have an adjustable bridge which I crank down for jazz, sacrificing tone for easier action and more fingerboard buzz ( aka mwah), and up for bowing for better tone, more volume and better bow response.

 

 

[hpc364]

38 minutes ago, NickA said:

 

 

Note that lowering the bridge will reduce the pressure on the front of the bass and that will alter the sound.  Usually makes it quieter and less rich.

 

 

 

Ah ! I do like my sound !

I measured again my string height...

At the octave about 8-9 mm on G string and maybe 10 mm on E string.

I can put my pinky under a string.

It doesn't change a lot along the end of the fingerboard, maybe 10 mm !

It's difficult to define because the fingerboard is not flat.

Visually it's huge but when I press down I won't say it's a torture but crossing strings on block and thumb positions is kind of dangerous or disturbing.

I can do it like cutting wood on my leg.

 

At the nut the action is more than correct.

New strings are coming tomorrow (tapewound strings), I wonder what it's going to happen.

[hpc364]

[Rich]

Sanding Bridge Feet? I'm pretty sure I saw them at a folk festival some years ago.

[hpc364]

On 24/10/2024 at 12:35, NickA said:

Usually a bad idea.  If properly fitted there shouldnt be much wood thickness left in the feet. Apart from the difficulty of getting the shape correct, you may end up with feet that are too thin.  Easier to deepen the string slots in the top of the bridge then, when you're happy with the action, file the top of the bridge down so it's half a string diameter or so above the bottom of the slots.

 

Note that lowering the bridge will reduce the pressure on the front of the bass and that will alter the sound.  Usually makes it quieter and less rich.

It may not be critical on a factory built laminate bass... also less critical if you're using a pickup and amp.

 

Also..be careful when removing the bridge, the sound post may fall down, then you have to pay someone to put it back up! 

 

I have an adjustable bridge which I crank down for jazz, sacrificing tone for easier action and more fingerboard buzz ( aka mwah), and up for bowing for better tone, more volume and better bow response.

 

 

OK, I did it, I put a new set then I did it.

[keeponehandloose]

What strings are those?

 

[hpc364]

2 hours ago, keeponehandloose said:

What strings are those?

 

Those 

 

[hpc364]

What do I risk if I let it like this ?

I modified it again.

 

[NickA]

I am told ( by the better bass player who sits next to me in orchestra) that if the slots are too deep it will spoil the tone and reduce sustain.  But she has a fancy carved bass.  I did the same as you ( deep slots for lower action) then filed the bridge down to make the slots shallower ... No huge difference in sound but it looks better and it stopped her telling me it was wrong.😁

[hpc364]

14 minutes ago, NickA said:

I am told ( by the better bass player who sits next to me in orchestra) that if the slots are too deep it will spoil the tone and reduce sustain.  But she has a fancy carved bass.  I did the same as you ( deep slots for lower action) then filed the bridge down to make the slots shallower ... No huge difference in sound but it looks better and it stopped her telling me it was wrong.😁

Thanks a lot !!!

[Bloopdad1]

A proper Luthier would never ever ever ever sand down the feet of the bridge, they only use very sharp Knives and profile blades to cut the shape. This allows for a perfect contact and frequency transfer into the top (which is why they take a day and charge us around £400 to do it!). 

If the bass isn't that valuable then a cheap imperfect absolutely last resort would be to sand it, but it's really not the done thing... 

Lowering the crown of the bridge is more acceptable and simple. Just keep the spacing correct and make sure the strings aren't embedded in the bridge - you're looking for half of the string diameter in the bridge and the other half exposed (you can use round needle files to get the perfect profile). 

Average string height at the end of the fingerboard is around 9mm under the G to 13mm under the E (or something like that - can't be arsed to find a measuring stick to go check!) 

If you are still struggling in thumb position then you either need more practice(!!) or your fingerboard relief needs attention. 

 

(Or if you want to really get technical... Difficulty in thumb position can often be down to an incorrectly set sound post. If it's even slightly too long the pressure on the top will detract from playability and cause the strings to be VERY "tight" to press down. 

Also if your bass bar is not correct that will have the same affect. 

And easy way to test this is to firmly  pull the D string towards the G and with the other hand firmly pull the A string towards the E... If you can't see the top flexing a little there's a good chance that your post is too tight. This is what we call having a "tight bass". 

 

My Cole bass is partially susceptible to temperature changes so when I take that bass out I always carry another shortened soundpost so if it gets tight I can quickly pop it in and open up the sound again. - DON'T TRY THIS UNLESS YOU'RE USED TO FITTING POSTS! 

 

Told you it was technical..) 😂 

[NickA]

27 minutes ago, Bloopdad1 said:

And easy way to test this is to firmly  pull the D string towards the G and with the other hand firmly pull the A string towards the E... I

Anyone else just had an desperate need to go try this?  😂

 

Hardly flexes at all. New bass bar 20years ago. Recent sound post adjustment. The Luther at Tim Tofts was happy with it. Sounds good to me. But it is quite a "stiff" bass.

 

I have the tool to "pop" a new post in ...but daren't try it!!!  Guess I'm stuck with it.

[hpc364]

I'm pretty proud of how the bass became more comfortable.

 

End of the fingerboard...

 

G 7 mm

D 8 mm

A 9 mm

E 10 mm

 

It's what I guess I measured with multiple methods.

 

It's worth to become a totally blind inexperienced silly luthier than leaving a fortune for a real "set-up"...

 

Every time a professional touches one of my instruments I'm disappointed, when I do it on my own I claim it's a piece of art, even if it's ugly, it works the way I want.

This is the other way of what oneself tolerance means.