Ander87 Posted October 30 Share Posted October 30 (edited) So. 75% of my basses gravitate around Precision basses or Stingrays, 90% FSO's. I'm in a new band and I enquired about some builds with folk we all know and respect. A fair £1300 quote came back, that even if fair, is much more than I want to spend these days. So... I budgeted about half of that to build my own - I've seen past guitarist spray nitros and do a decent job out of it, but I want to open this thread to triple check as I'll have questions (plenty, mostly surrounding paint). First, the inspo: An update on a Precision bass, mid relic in Sherwood Green. DISCLAIMER: this is NOT an accurate period correct project. Ingredients: * Roasted maple jazz neck with rosewood board. From eBay China, I had my reservations but 4.9/5 stars and a description that the maker provides for 'other factories' kinda won me over. For the money, I'm willing to take the risk - thinking the worst thing with it may be a fret edges sanding? Not too pricey if all else is in place. * guitarbuild.co.uk 3 piece body, in swamp ash, classic P shape, 1.8kg. A bit steep, but again happy to 'indulge' on this, especially for the weight. Research tells me most alder is around 2/2.2kg, and other swamp ash bodies I've seen were a heavier 2.5kg. * Thomann order: Gotoh res-o-lite tuners, EMG Geezer Butler P, knobs, neck plate, Gotoh 201B bass bridge. Now paint/finish, and here comes my first questions - after looking on northwest guitars info: * Rustins Grain filler, natural - recommended since swamp ash has lots of grain uniformity * Rustins Sanding Sealer vs Clear nitrocellulose sanding sealer - are both of these the same? do I need one and not the other? * Nitro gray primer, instead of white, hoping that helps the sherwood green darken? I want that 'almost' racing green look like the picture. * Nitro sherwood green - I went for the V1 here, as opposed to the V2 which looks a bit more turquoise. * Nitro clear gloss, for the body, as I want that glossy sheen rather than matt (again, picture for reference). Some simple questions: * How to apply grain filler? Planning to rub it in with a cloth * Do I need both sanding sealers? Rustins and/or aerosol one... * At which stages do I sand the body? Thinking Once I receive the body, as it comes After applying the grain filler After applying first primer (how many coats?) I understand no need with the sherwood green nor clear coats (how many of each?) High grit ala 2000 after all is finished for the glossy effect? I will then proceed to age the hardware and sand down areas rubbed, scratches, dings and dents etc but won't consider that until that is finished. Same for the neck, I don't think I'll rough it up much but good to take that in carefully. Some pictures of what I've got on the way. Edited October 30 by Ander87 8 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MichaelDean Posted October 31 Share Posted October 31 I've been thinking about doing the same sort of thing but charcoal frost metallic. I'll be very interested to hear your thoughts on the neck. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ander87 Posted October 31 Author Share Posted October 31 (edited) 2 hours ago, MichaelDean said: I've been thinking about doing the same sort of thing but charcoal frost metallic. I'll be very interested to hear your thoughts on the neck. I’ll keep you posted! I love a charcoal frost but I feel I need to indulge a Sherwood green I’ve never had… add a tort pickguard and it’s just lush class! so, the body arrived and it’s a whole slab! Not contouring which in all honesty it’s okay as I’ve never had a slab body and many times I almost pulled the trigger. For review on guitarbuild, happy with delivery times and weight as stated on the nose, 1.8kg. I do have a strong feeling the body has been gap filled already as I can feel it smoother than on the wood sample, but will still apply a thin layer of Rustin’s gap filler for certain. Will have to align pickup screws and I do hope the cavity is deep enough for standard EMG P pickups, same as pickguard holes of course. Nothing my little hand drill won’t do. now that I feel parts arriving and the ‘you can rough it up anytime, but can’t add the mint finish back on’, and with 70+ gigs next year, I feel I may just gloss (nitro) finish it and keep it stock, or New Old Stock with lacquer cracking and no relic’ing, as all those gigs will sure do its part. I can always rough it up sand down areas and add chips etc at the end of next year if I like…! Edited October 31 by Ander87 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaulThePlug Posted October 31 Share Posted October 31 Tell us a bit more about the neck... Looks good, fret ends etc. Fretboard edge looks lightly rolled. Remember to drill nice pilot holes - size and depth - for the machine head mounting screws, with a scrape of candle wax or block soap on the threads lto lube, and use a good fitting screw driver. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ander87 Posted October 31 Author Share Posted October 31 Hey Paul! Not in my hands yet but on the way… will report once it’s here. so far this is gonna be a jazz neck, slab body and precision pickguard/electronics. What a FSO celebration 😅 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pea Turgh Posted October 31 Share Posted October 31 That neck looks really nice. Do they do a P width nut? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ander87 Posted October 31 Author Share Posted October 31 Most positively, yes. I’m pretty sure I’ve seen all options! Blocks, dots, maple boards or rosewood over precision and jazz necks 23 minutes ago, Pea Turgh said: That neck looks really nice. Do they do a P width nut? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaulThePlug Posted October 31 Share Posted October 31 Good luck and most of all enjoy putting it together... My first, a P Bitsa with a J Nut Neck 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ander87 Posted November 2 Author Share Posted November 2 On 30/10/2024 at 14:47, Ander87 said: Some simple questions: * How to apply grain filler? Planning to rub it in with a cloth Yes, cloth * Do I need both sanding sealers? Rustins and/or aerosol one... Yes - Rustins wood filler + Sanding sealer aerosol * At which stages do I sand the body? Thinking Once I receive the body, as it comes Yes, up to 240 grit After applying the grain filler Yes, up to 400-600 grit After applying first primer (how many coats?) Not sure I understand no need with the sherwood green nor clear coats (how many of each?) Correct, no need High grit ala 2000 after all is finished for the glossy effect? Yes, even further, starting 800 probs, up to 2-3-5k grit Answering myself after some research, also learning: * Porous woods like swamp ash (ahem) are more difficult to work and fill * Metallic colours (ahem ahem) also more difficult - great that I dived into this - I'm still on time to chose something like Sonic Blue or similar but nah, I'll still go ahead for a Sherwood Green finish. Another thing - pickguard arrived - this time I wanted a bit more quality than the cheap musiclilly type of thing, without going into Pure Vintage or premium celluloid tort as those are over £70 easily... I found a celluloid top pickguard at Charles Guitars for £27. Breathe of relief knowing it does fit, pickup cavity included, so no carving involved... Parts ordered from Thomann, I'll order the paint supply and a couple other bits from Northwest Guitars. Tempted to build all of it in already and giving it a play once it arrives, but that'd be stupid as I'd have to undo it all. I'm hoping I can do the gap filling and sanding next weekend, to prep for spraying the following weekend. Ander. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaulThePlug Posted November 4 Share Posted November 4 Nice bit of wood. I'd go natural oil and wax finish. Cheap(er) Easy(er), Great Results (betterer)... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ander87 Posted November 4 Author Share Posted November 4 7 hours ago, PaulThePlug said: Nice bit of wood. I'd go natural oil and wax finish. Cheap(er) Easy(er), Great Results (betterer)... ah, life would most definitely be much easier in natural…! Still the Sherwood Green thing has been going for a couple years so I guess I’ll indulge…! On top of it, Sherwood Green ranges a lot from the almost dark racing green to the more silvery one below… I’m hoping gray primer helps more towards the dark green vibe but I’ve a feeling it’s just yellowed aged top coat that gives that finish… 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kodiakblair Posted November 5 Share Posted November 5 On 30/10/2024 at 14:47, Ander87 said: Some pictures of what I've got on the way. Bloody Hell !! That neck is pretty. Stick to your guns regarding the colour scheme and you'll have yourself a cracking bass 👍 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ander87 Posted November 5 Author Share Posted November 5 Just now, kodiakblair said: Bloody Hell !! That neck is pretty. Stick to your guns regarding the colour scheme and you'll have yourself a cracking bass 👍 Haha thanks buddy! I defo am looking forwards to tje neck arriving and start seeing it all together Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kodiakblair Posted November 5 Share Posted November 5 1 minute ago, Ander87 said: Haha thanks buddy! I defo am looking forwards to tje neck arriving and start seeing it all together I'm looking forward to seeing it come together and I'll never get a chance to play it 🤣🤣🤣 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reggaebass Posted November 5 Share Posted November 5 Looking good and a great project Ander, that neck is lovely 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JR1000 Posted Friday at 11:27 Share Posted Friday at 11:27 I have the same body waiting to be built up. Has your neck arrived and does it fit? And can you say where it came (is coming) from? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ander87 Posted Friday at 11:39 Author Share Posted Friday at 11:39 Hey buddy! I unfortunately received a message from the seller that the neck had been smashed in transit. It should’ve been with me now, so the seller is sending a replacement that should be with me in 7-10 days I hope. meant to update this thread (there’s been progress!), and I will hopefully over the weekend…! Ander. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JPJ Posted Friday at 16:39 Share Posted Friday at 16:39 Having finished a couple of guitars and basses using nitro in rattle cans, here’s my approach. 1) sand the body to 400 grit 2) apply the grain filler working the filler in with a plastic spatula across the grain 3) sand the body to 800 grit working slightly diagonally to the grain so as to avoid pulling the grain filler out of the grain. 4) apply sanding sealer, this will serve two purposes, firstly it will let you catch the light so you can see any areas that need more sanding or filling, and secondly it will cut down on the amount of primer you use. I normally knock the sanding sealer back to about 1200 grit before I apply the primer. 5) apply the number of coats of primer you need to get a good even finish with no exposed grain, sanding scratches, defects. Pay particular attention the the edges where the primer can sink into the open grain. 6) once happy with the primer coverage, wet sand to 1500 grit. Everything you apply from here on in will magnify any remaining defects so this is probably the most important stage. 7) apply your colour coat. I’d probably apply three coats around the edges, two to the back and three on the front, although as the Sherwood green is relatively pigment heavy, two good coats all over may be sufficient. If you haven’t sprayed nitro before I’d highly recommend practicing on some scrap wood as the line between enough coverage and enough to run a screw your finish is very very fine. 8 ) wet sand the colour coat to 2000 grit 9) Apply the clear coat, again probably two or three coats to build up enough coverage to wet sand without sanding through to the colour coat. Leave it at least two weeks to fully cure (finger nail test is the way of knowing for sure). 10) Wet sand through 2000, 2500, and finally 3000 grit. 11) buff with coarse, medium, and fine buffing compounds and then polish to final finish. To improve the spray pattern and reduce the ‘orange peel’ you invariably get with rattle cans, warm the paint before you spray by standing the can in a pot of warm water. Do not scrimp on the can shaking, you need the paint and propellant to be fully mixed to avoid spatter. Finally, health and safety - you need a really good professional filter mask as nitro is nasty stuff. You need the room you spray in to be warm and well ventilated with good light (preferably natural light). Don’t be tempted to spray out doors especially at this time of year, moisture in the air will cause your finish to go milky and there is nothing you can do other than stripping back the offending coat and starting again. Following my process I managed to achieve this on a black telecaster body - a finish I am rather proud of. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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