=^..^= Posted January 5 Posted January 5 Pre Ernie Ball - 1977 Musicman stingray B00 serial number Great condition for age - belt rash on the back (but only to be expected) varnish has cracked on the front but it just looks lovely - like it is striped I love this bass, I don't want to sell it but I'm not playing it as I'm only playing 35" scale basses these days (swapping to 34's messes up my muscle memory..) Bought from Andy Baxter bass about 10 years ago and it's all original (aside from mutes and battery clip) The Pre EB serial db drops it in the middle of 77 - but no way to confirm one way or another - just on the serials around this one Incredible sound from it - it has that classic stingray sound that only a stingray can deliver - distinctive and cuts through It was last gigged in 2019 when I lent it to Caro Emeralds bass player when an issue led to their equipment not getting to the venue (gig photo..) . This needs to be played ! Original Hard shell case included. Case has some age related marks too. £4,000 + postage (method can be agreed...) or you can come and collect it 10 Quote
Hellzero Posted January 6 Posted January 6 Wow, lovely 😍! There are other ways to attest the year than the serial number: pot date codes and stamps in the neck pocket and at the heel of the neck. According to George Fullerton, the stamps can be missing and it happened more than thought... And according to him again, it's a polyester finish as they were the only one prone to cracking. CLF who was making the instruments for Music Man up to late 1979 (when Leo left) were using nitro, polyester or polyurethane finish quite randomly, but polyurethane was the least problematic. 1 Quote
=^..^= Posted January 6 Author Posted January 6 1 hour ago, Hellzero said: Wow, lovely 😍! There are other ways to attest the year than the serial number: pot date codes and stamps in the neck pocket and at the heel of the neck. According to George Fullerton, the stamps can be missing and it happened more than thought... And according to him again, it's a polyester finish as they were the only one prone to cracking. CLF who was making the instruments for Music Man up to late 1979 (when Leo left) were using nitro, polyester or polyurethane finish quite randomly, but polyurethane was the least problematic. Thanks - there is also a quick way to date them without removing a single screw which is the headstock logo (which could be swapped) and the bridge which would be harder to replace as the "Pre late" 78 bridges have the string though holes in line with the intonation screw http://www.musicmanbass.global/bridges-pre-eb-eb/ Late 78 bridges onwards have the string though hole in line with the saddle groove and they also have a serial number on them It's quite fascinating to see they way little details changed over the first couple of years of production 1 Quote
Hellzero Posted January 6 Posted January 6 I have the same logo as yours on my 1979 Stingray (with the encircled R)... The bridge is, of course, an excellent indicator of authenticity, because of its unique features, but the stamps and pot date codes are way more precise, especially the stamps. 😉 At this price tag, it should be a good idea to have these details photographed as I'm sure a connoisseur buyer will ask for these, so being proactive doesn't harm. 😉😉😉 2 Quote
=^..^= Posted January 6 Author Posted January 6 17 minutes ago, Hellzero said: I have the same logo as yours on my 1979 Stingray (with the encircled R)... The bridge is, of course, an excellent indicator of authenticity, because of its unique features, but the stamps and pot date codes are way more precise, especially the stamps. 😉 At this price tag, it should be a good idea to have these details photographed as I'm sure a connoisseur buyer will ask for these, so being proactive doesn't harm. 😉😉😉 I'm sure if some one comes up with a serious offer then I'll do that I'm hesitant to remove any screws into wood or to even ask my luthier to do that - I've always wondered about how much sense that makes - in particular the neck pocket screws. The neck has been nicely settled for the last 10+ years and there are sufficient other indicators of the basses age to mean is it worth the risk to remove it ? But I guess that is a discussion that could happen. Quote
Burns-bass Posted January 6 Posted January 6 It's not a problem to take the bass apart, and as suggested, any serious buyer would want to see it. I think unscrewing the control plate and picturing under there is a good first start and shouldn't take more than a few minutes (and won't break or disrupt anything!) 3 Quote
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