Raslee Posted June 3, 2009 Share Posted June 3, 2009 Hello DB'ers, I've recently sold my Stagg and tuck the plunge in buying a wooden bass, albeit a grade B cheapish Gear4music double bass that needs fixing up. I've got the bits and put it together now but not sure which way the middle wooden bridge goes?...it seems to slope down more on one side...would that be the E or the G side. I've also broken the E & A string upon tuning, i think the strings were weak crap quality ones so am ordering some better ones, they had been bent too!!!. Also does moving the bridge allow for lower action, my action seems really high...or do i file the bridge or similar? some of you old timers are probably cringing at my Q's but i literrally do not have a clue ...also if anyone know anyone who does set ups near south Devon let me know. Thanks in anticipation for your responses. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonny-lad Posted June 3, 2009 Share Posted June 3, 2009 I've done the same thing by buying a cheap double bass from gear4music a couple of years ago...I had my bridge on the wrong way round at first - the flat side of the bridge should face the floor otherwise it would be quite easy for it to fall over (also watch for this when you tune up when you put the bridge on). I also took loads of height off the bridge by deepening the slots with a set of little files I got in Focus and then sanding the top of the bridge down to meet the new depth of the slots...I did this with the bridge on the bass by loosening two strings at a time - thought I should keep some tension on there because I didn't want the soundpost to fall out, but I've heard the soundposts in these chinese basses are wedged in quite tight. I think the scale length should be about 42 1/2 inches amnd the sound post should be around an inch away from being under the foot of the bridge, so to get lower action you'd really need to take height off the bridge instead of moving it - I'm pretty sure I took around 15 to 20mm off mine! I did this progressively over a long time though, as I learnt about things! You'll probably get some string buzz if you take the action low enough, and for this I took a bit of sandpaper to the offending part of the fingerboard, but I approached it with loads of caution, and it improved it but hasn't totally eradicated it, although it's plenty good enough for me! I also deepened the slots in the nut, again with loads of caution using the files from Focus. It's worth bearing in mind that the dark wood on these basses is just painted black so it doesn't take much to get to some light coloured wood underneath like on the fingerboard...I've got a light patch on mine where I used the sandpaper. I know a lot of established double bass players don't like these chinese basses, but I got mine so I wouldn't be scared to do the sort of work that I've done, and I've learnt a huge amount from it. I also got a great case with it (free) and I've now got a K&K bass max for it and it sounds alright and plays alright for what it is...it's the Deluxe one, byt the way, which has a solid top. Everything I've learnt is from internet research and looking at other people's basses...I think if you take your time, be patient and don't rush anything you should be alright and learn loads!! I certainly did! +1 for new strings - I still haven't managed to buy any, but as soon as the budget allows I'm sure it'll make a big difference! Hope this helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raslee Posted June 4, 2009 Author Share Posted June 4, 2009 Thanks for your helpful reply jonny-lad, really appreciated mate . Is the soundpost and bridge the same thing...i'm a bit confused there?...forgive my dumbness on the subject. My DB is a 1/2 size, when you refer to scale length do you mean the neck length? cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonny-lad Posted June 4, 2009 Share Posted June 4, 2009 Glad I can be of some help! The soundpost is a piece of wood that's wedged inside the bass between the front and the back - you'll be able to see it if you look inside through the f-hole. They can sometimes fall out as they are held in just by the tension on the top of the bass from the bridge, but they are wedged in tight on these types of chinese bass so it's not very likely IME...I've always got the impression that these basses could stand up to quite alot, which they'd need to if they were used as a student bass in a busy school for example. The scale length is the distance between the nut and the bridge i.e. the part of the string that produces the sound. As your bass is the 1/2 size model, the scale length should be 97cm, which is 38.8 inches (as there are 2.5cm in an inch). This can, however, be varied slighty as there are no frets or position markings to worry about. The best tip I've heard is that once you've got your bridge on and you're learning to play, keep the bridge in the same position (unless you really need to move it), as the note positions on the neck will move if you move the bridge and you'll have to get used to where the notes are all over again. This is another reason why I kept the bridge on the bass when I was lowering the action. I recently played a 1/2 size double bass, although not a gear4music one, and it was great to play a smaller sized instrument - really comfortable, despite me being used to playing a 3/4 size bass. Hope you enjoy it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jean-Luc Pickguard Posted June 8, 2009 Share Posted June 8, 2009 A couple of simple tips that helped when I set mine up: the bridge should line up with the notches on your F Holes & ensure the bridge is perpendicular to the top with the strings in tune. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TPJ Posted June 8, 2009 Share Posted June 8, 2009 [url="http://www.projectsandhobbies.com/bassfiddlesetup.htm"]This link[/url] may help a bit. If you're unsure about any procedure, get on 'tinterweb and research it. Read all about it and get yourself well informed about not only how to make changes on an instrument but also what affect those change may have. There's nothing wrong with going in the deep end as long as you can swim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raslee Posted June 20, 2009 Author Share Posted June 20, 2009 [quote name='TPJ' post='508055' date='Jun 8 2009, 11:00 AM'][url="http://www.projectsandhobbies.com/bassfiddlesetup.htm"]This link[/url] may help a bit. If you're unsure about any procedure, get on 'tinterweb and research it. Read all about it and get yourself well informed about not only how to make changes on an instrument but also what affect those change may have. There's nothing wrong with going in the deep end as long as you can swim [/quote] Cheers for the link, that was really helpful. After weeks of gently sanding my bridge and moving it to match with the F holes I've got a really good action that i am happy with. Thanks for all your help guys. Now i have to find where to learn these hand stretches/positions before i develop bad technique. I could do with getting some lessons so if anyone knows anyone Plymouth way let me know. Lee Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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