Reverb Fender '74 purchase

[JJMotown]

43 minutes ago, GuyR said:

That is an authentic looking bass. 
I would be inclined to give it to a professional to get the bridge off. 

Totally agree. Any tension on those rusty screw heads will result in the tops shearing off and the shaft of the screw left in the body. So the shaft will have to be drilled out, which is best left to a luthier.

[andytoad]

1 hour ago, JJMotown said:

Totally agree. Any tension on those rusty screw heads will result in the tops shearing off and the shaft of the screw left in the body. So the shaft will have to be drilled out, which is best left to a luthier.

I could give my usual chap a call and see if he does that sort of thing, seeing as he will be refretting it anyway. Good prompt

[GuyR]

1 hour ago, andytoad said:

I could give my usual chap a call and see if he does that sort of thing, seeing as he will be refretting it anyway. Good prompt

I think some people heat the head of the screw with a soldering iron to expand it and break the grip of the thread as it cools. I’m sure there are other techniques. 

[police squad]

I'd stick some 3 in 1 on it to start with, it shouldn't do any harm

[80Hz]

I guess there's not much of that bridge plate left, the plating has obviously gone and I'd be too worried about the structural integrity of what's left!

 

But the saddles looked okay? Do you think you'll be able to save those? Maybe they're not original giving the different condition.

 

It's cool that this instrument "speaks" to you and you're gonna give it the requisite TLC 😄

[andytoad]

3 hours ago, police squad said:

I'd stick some 3 in 1 on it to start with, it shouldn't do any harm

Yup, I've ordered some penetrant, see how we go. Going to call my local chap first to see if he can remove the screws if I damage them.

[andytoad]

1 hour ago, 80Hz said:

I guess there's not much of that bridge plate left, the plating has obviously gone and I'd be too worried about the structural integrity of what's left!

 

But the saddles looked okay? Do you think you'll be able to save those? Maybe they're not original giving the different condition.

 

It's cool that this instrument "speaks" to you and you're gonna give it the requisite TLC 😄

Yup the saddles are OK, the G-string screw was corroded to the bridge plate, but I managed to ease it off.

 

What's the views on applying rust remover to the springs and screws? Should I go me gentle with WD-40 or the like? I'm thinking the latter.

[JJMotown]

You can remove the rust from the springs by soaking them in white vinegar, it's a very mild acid and will remove the rust, just rinse with water afterwards to balance pH levels.

 

I wouldn't remove the bridge screws yourself. They are simply too old and rusted. 

[andytoad]

Well after stripping down the rest of the body, there is still a connected earthwire to the bridge. I will try continuity with a multi meter, I can only presume its stopped working.

 

[Terry M.]

On 14/02/2025 at 20:04, andytoad said:

Off the back of the Vintage Fender thread I purchased a '74 P-bass on Reverb, beaten up just how I like them (not everyone's cup of tea I know).

 

It needs work to get it up to scratch, the main things being:

1. A refret.

2. Replace the installed electronics back to the original (if they are usable) and earth wire

3. Change the scratch plate

4. See if I can free off the bridge from the body consider reconditioning or replacing.

5. Add my favourite flats.

 

Happy to listen to constructive advice as I update this thread.

 

 

 

Body staying as is or is a refin part of your plans?

[andytoad]

Just now, Terry M. said:

Body staying as is or is a refin part of your plans?

 Gonna keep it as is, same as with the neck (aside from the refret).

 

Also if the bridge plate is still earthed, I will keep it in situ, bearing in mind the previous posts.

[Belka]

23 hours ago, andytoad said:

Yup the saddles are OK, the G-string screw was corroded to the bridge plate, but I managed to ease it off.

 

What's the views on applying rust remover to the springs and screws? Should I go me gentle with WD-40 or the like? I'm thinking the latter.

The saddles are not original. The originals had grub screws that would be adjusted with a flat head screwdriver, not an Allen key.

 

This is what you want:

 

Pure Vintage '70s Jazz Bass Bridge  

[ossyrocks]

Great thread @andytoad

 

Re the saddles, I spotted the grubscrews too, but the saddles might be original. My '73 P had seized and rusted grubscrews which I had to replace too. I just happened to buy correct slotted head ones rather than allen key ones. You also appear to have two longer intonation screws rather than the factory supplied one screw on the G string. There are a few early 70's basses with the bridge a bit further back than it should be, hence needing the longer screws. I have a stash of 1 3/4" ones for exactly this purpose if you need any.

 

Tell us more about the pickguard and why you want to replace it, is it definitely not original?

 

Rob

[andytoad]

9 hours ago, ossyrocks said:

Great thread @andytoad

 

Re the saddles, I spotted the grubscrews too, but the saddles might be original. My '73 P had seized and rusted grubscrews which I had to replace too. I just happened to buy correct slotted head ones rather than allen key ones. You also appear to have two longer intonation screws rather than the factory supplied one screw on the G string. There are a few early 70's basses with the bridge a bit further back than it should be, hence needing the longer screws. I have a stash of 1 3/4" ones for exactly this purpose if you need any.

 

Tell us more about the pickguard and why you want to replace it, is it definitely not original?

 

Rob

A cool cheers @ossyrocks , yeah pickguard is a modern replacement, i dont think i will try to source an original, but i reckon i will go for a roadworn or something in keeping with the body state.

 

Interested to know more about bridge position, if the current screws sheer off, would this give the option to reposition (and leave the originals in situ (but hidden under the bridge)?

 

[ossyrocks]

58 minutes ago, andytoad said:

Interested to know more about bridge position, if the current screws sheer off, would this give the option to reposition (and leave the originals in situ (but hidden under the bridge)?

 

@ikay is the man to talk to about the bridge position.

 

Personally, I wouldn't move it. There's probably not enough wriggle room to move the bridge forward without plugging the original holes, as the new holes would have to be so close. It would also leave tell tale marks in the finish on the top when the bridge moves forward maybe 5mm.  What I would consider however, is having the bridge removed by a luthier, and if any screws shear off, having them drilled out and the holes properly plugged to take the new screws. To me, this is just maintenance, it's not modification, and all would be concealed under the bridge.

 

Whereabouts are you? I'm interested to know who is going to refret it, as I have a '73 Jazz in need of a refret.

 

Rob

 

Edit: Looking again at your bridge position, it's not bad at all. I have two Jazz basses where the saddles are right at the very front of the baseplate.

Edited Tuesday at 19:17 by ossyrocks

[bremen]

Out of interest, how would a professional extract screws that had snapped flush with the surface of the wood?

[andytoad]

1 hour ago, ossyrocks said:

@ikay is the man to talk to about the bridge position.

 

Personally, I wouldn't move it. There's probably not enough wriggle room to move the bridge forward without plugging the original holes, as the new holes would have to be so close. It would also leave tell tale marks in the finish on the top when the bridge moves forward maybe 5mm.  What I would consider however, is having the bridge removed by a luthier, and if any screws shear off, having them drilled out and the holes properly plugged to take the new screws. To me, this is just maintenance, it's not modification, and all would be concealed under the bridge.

 

Whereabouts are you? I'm interested to know who is going to refret it, as I have a '73 Jazz in need of a refret.

 

Rob

 

Edit: Looking again at your bridge position, it's not bad at all. I have two Jazz basses where the saddles are right at the very front of the baseplate.

@ossyrocks I'm in the SE and Andy Crockett is my go to chap. I need to have speaks with him in a day or two, so see how we go. I leave it in situ if it was earthed, but the original wire in non functional after testing

[andytoad]

58 minutes ago, bremen said:

Out of interest, how would a professional extract screws that had snapped flush with the surface of the wood?

@bremen I guess a pilar drill and a decent metal bit? I will find out when I call..

[bremen]

Not really, there's no way the drill would stay on the screw and not slip down and into the wood.

[andytoad]

3 minutes ago, bremen said:

Not really, there's no way the drill would stay on the screw and not slip down and into the wood.

Just noticed the jazz with the earth plate you have been commenting on, possible tidy solution to save removal?

[bremen]

8 minutes ago, andytoad said:

Just noticed the jazz with the earth plate you have been commenting on, possible tidy solution to save removal?

I did think that, but you'd still have to lift the bridge to get the copper tape under. Unless you soldered the tape to the bridge plate, but it'd take a lot of heat and might not look so neat.

[JJMotown]

1 hour ago, bremen said:

Not really, there's no way the drill would stay on the screw and not slip down and into the wood.

There's a drill bit which is hollow in the middle, which you drill down to the depth of the screw shaft, over the screw, then pull out, and fill the hole with a dowel.

[bremen]

6 minutes ago, JJMotown said:

There's a drill bit which is hollow in the middle, which you drill down to the depth of the screw shaft, over the screw, then pull out, and fill the hole with a dowel.

How cool is that.

 

https://www.stewmac.com/luthier-tools-and-supplies/types-of-tools/routers-and-bits/bits/guitar-screw-rescue-kit

Edited Tuesday at 22:26 by bremen

[Geek99]

On 15/02/2025 at 19:06, JJMotown said:

Totally agree. Any tension on those rusty screw heads will result in the tops shearing off and the shaft of the screw left in the body. So the shaft will have to be drilled out, which is best left to a luthier.

Use a screw extractor 

[MichaelDean]

10 hours ago, Geek99 said:

Use a screw extractor 

They aren't fool proof. On the window in our bathroom, the head on the screws for the handle was so far gone a screw extractor didn't work. I ended up having to cut the thing off with a dremel after the handle fell off.

 

10 hours ago, JJMotown said:

There's a drill bit which is hollow in the middle, which you drill down to the depth of the screw shaft, over the screw, then pull out, and fill the hole with a dowel.

Yeah, this. I had a strap button screw sheer off under the wood. A screw extrator also didn't work there. It had to be extracted like this and then the chip out sorted. It chipped out quite badly due to the location. The fix is invisible with a new strap button installed though. Hawker Repairs in Bristol did such a good job that I recommend them to everyone. Also did a great stainless steel refret on my Mustang.