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Posted

Hi all

 

It's been a while since I've played my bass, and I recently took it out of storage to get playing again.

 

I picked up that something internally in the electronical side was not earthed (the bridge... might be relevant to the below) - which I fixed by soldering.

I then spent some time adding some copper shielding (which I had always wanted to do, and the guitar was open anyway).

I then decided to change the strings to, in my mind, "get everything sounding as good as it would get".

 

While changing the strings I picked up that there was a bit of a forward bow, so I adjusted the truss rod accordingly.

I then started with the string heights and length... and only then picked up that the bridge has a slight lift (around 1mm) at the back.

I have no idea how long it has been like this, however because of this I have to put the new E string height down onto the absolute lowest height.

The E string seems very sensitive to tuning, and the saddle for the E string also had to be pulled a lot further back the other strings to get the intonation correct.

 

All that said... The bass is currently sounding great - but I don't want this to develop into a longer-term problem.

From what I've read online I can glue it back down (using some clamps).

This will then also improve the string height range (so I can drop them slightly closer to the fret board), and the saddle would then move forward a bit.

 

My questions are basically:

1. Am I overthinking this, and I should just leave it (as I have no idea how long it has been like this)?

2. If I should rather repair, what glue should I use?

 

Some pics attached below.

 

I'll really appreciate guidance from someone with more repair experience than me.

 

20250215_161508.jpg

20250215_161528.jpg

20250215_161351.jpg

Posted

Crikey, the bridge plate is bent AND pulling out the bass side screw, and it's likely to get worse. To prevent this sort of thing most bridges have three or more screws behind the saddles (your have two, Fender usually have five), so I'd suggest getting a Fender style BBOT and drilling the three - possibly five depending on how the two outside holes on the Fender bridge line up with the two screw holes in question - extra holes required 👍

  • Like 2
Posted
23 minutes ago, Beedster said:

Crikey, the bridge plate is bent AND pulling out the bass side screw, and it's likely to get worse. To prevent this sort of thing most bridges have three or more screws behind the saddles (your have two, Fender usually have five), so I'd suggest getting a Fender style BBOT and drilling the three - possibly five depending on how the two outside holes on the Fender bridge line up with the two screw holes in question - extra holes required 👍

Plus one here.

Posted (edited)

Hi all

 

Thanks for all the feedback - I'm reassured that I made the right call to reach out and didn't just leave it.

I'll start to look to see what I can replace it with.

 

The string spacing is 20mm, not the seemingly standard 19mm.

The other dimensions are also a bit "unusual" as far as I can tell... 850mm x 550mm (x 15mm)

I guess the hole spacing is not going to be possible to line up (so I'll need to find something roughly the same size and be sure that I can potentially cover the existing holes with the new bridge).

The strings are around 15mm from the body of the body.

 

Is there anything in particular that I need to look for in a replacement?
I've seemingly found the existing part at 4 String Top loading Bass Guitar Bridge BB012 – Northwest Guitars - but this seems to have a design flaw that I need to avoid.

 

20250215_161351_spacing.jpg

20250215_161508_spacing.jpg

Edited by YeboBass
Posted

Update - I've decided that I'll just get the matching part that I've found and then modify it to have a few additional screw(s) to hold it in place at the back.
Thanks for all the help :)

Posted

Have to say that your bass has to be enormous! Bridge width 850 mm = 85 cm!

 

Again, using a similar bridge wouldn't be my choice. Some glue and cocktail sticks would fill old holes... as the saddles are tuned so far back, it might be feasible to set the bridge backwards, in case you really want to use a similar unit. And then a better bridge could be in order.

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