Restringing your double bass

[JPJ]

I’m about to change the strings on my Boosey Hawkes excelsior for the first time in my ownership. I have a new set of light Spirocores sitting here ready to go on, and I’ve watched videos on YouTube from the likes of Geoff Chalmers on the ‘how to’ but before I dive in, I thought I’d ask the Basschat massive whether you have any cunning tips, do’s/don’ts etc?

 

Also, how long do new double bass strings take to stretch and settle? I have a gig on Sunday so I’ll hold off changing strings until after then, but it would be good to know the general rule of thumb on this.

[Beedster]

Hope you’ve got a string winder 👍

 

Time to settle varies with strings and playing volume, Spiros not the worst for sure - that prize goes to guts - but give it a few days before you gig 

[Burns-bass]

The tension on a set of DB strings is much higher than electric bass strings. You need to ensure that the string end is secured under the string as it winds around the peg. This is vital as when you bring the string to tension the string can slip, which can be very frustrating indeed (also means you'll forever be out of tune!

 

You'll also need to work in order. Don't remove all four strings at the same time as the sound post can fall over (which isn't good!).

 

 

 

 

[Kevsy71]

+1 for the string winder - and I found this video from Upton Bass useful the last time I changed:

 

 

[Beer of the Bass]

One at a time is good for keeping the bridge and soundpost in place. Spirocores settle fast in terms of tuning stability, but they have quite strong new string brightness that mellows over the first week or two of playing.

[Burns-bass]

42 minutes ago, Beer of the Bass said:

One at a time is good for keeping the bridge and soundpost in place. Spirocores settle fast in terms of tuning stability, but they have quite strong new string brightness that mellows over the first week or two of playing.

 

This is really true. I found that the strings felt like they were coated in some way which took a while to break in.

[philparker]

I have a string winder that fits to an electric drill/screwdriver (cordless), which makes it much easier. Although I have a few power tools, the one I use is the least powerful, and when I get close to being in tune, I revert to hand turning the peg (it would be very easy to over-tighten and snap the string...very expensive!).

 

As above - one string at a time - you don't want the sound post to drop.

[NickA]

I bought a string winder.  It even connects to an electric drill.  Still an awful faff as the winder falls off the tuners too easily.  Two people ( one to hold bass one to operate winder) might help.

[Beer of the Bass]

I've never bothered with a string winder, but then my century-old beech wood hatpeg tuners (with crude shoogly brass gears) are uneven and creaky enough that I'd be quite uneasy about winding them faster.

[Jamess72]

4 hours ago, JPJ said:

I’m about to change the strings on my Boosey Hawkes excelsior for the first time in my ownership. I have a new set of light Spirocores sitting here ready to go on, and I’ve watched videos on YouTube from the likes of Geoff Chalmers on the ‘how to’ but before I dive in, I thought I’d ask the Basschat massive whether you have any cunning tips, do’s/don’ts etc?

 

Also, how long do new double bass strings take to stretch and settle? I have a gig on Sunday so I’ll hold off changing strings until after then, but it would be good to know the general rule of thumb on this.

A couple of tips: take your time when winding the strings to avoid too much tension too quickly, and make sure to stretch the strings gently once they’re on by pulling them with your hands. As for settling, new strings can take a few days to fully stretch, so it’s best to give them some time to settle in. If you can, tune them up a bit every couple of hours leading up to your gig.

[Bloopdad1]

Don't whatever you do, allow the end silks in the peg box rub up against the side.... 

That can end in a very expensive mistake - especially if it's a B string! 

[tinyd]

One other thing - while you have the strings off, use a 4B pencil to add some graphite to the string slots in the nut and bridge - it helps lubricate them slightly when it comes to tuning.

[bassace]

58 minutes ago, tinyd said:

One other thing - while you have the strings off, use a 4B pencil to add some graphite to the string slots in the nut and bridge - it helps lubricate them slightly when it comes to tuning.

Excellent advice. I used to carry a 4B in my odds and ends gig bag. But playing Spiros after a few years I got to forget why I had it.

I also had a short piece of wire with the end turned at 90 degrees to help manipulate the string end in the peg box.

Lay the bass on its back and change strings two by two to avoid losing compression on the sound post. Otherwise it may fall out of position.

[PaulKing]

On 23/02/2025 at 08:21, Bloopdad1 said:

Don't whatever you do, allow the end silks in the peg box rub up against the side.... 

That can end in a very expensive mistake - especially if it's a B string! 

 

Yes indeed, though I've never suffered the ultimate cruel fate of broken string.

 

There's rarely much advice on how to wind the string round the peg. That can make a big difference and save a lot of bother, especially for big fat A and E. Also depends where the hole sits on the peg.

What order to replace?  ... how far to pull the string through the hole? ... whether to trim the excess (pretty much never - except gut!)?  ... whether to wind all in one direction (if there's room for the coil between hole and edge of box), once round behind the excess then switch direction (ideal, if there's room?), or risk coiling one way then crossing over the coil to continue in other direction (not advised, looks shitty, but widely done)? 

[PaulKing]

On 26/02/2025 at 15:03, tinyd said:

One other thing - while you have the strings off, use a 4B pencil to add some graphite to the string slots in the nut and bridge - it helps lubricate them slightly when it comes to tuning.

Definitely. Or a touch of wax crayon.

 

On a related note, also keep a close eye on the bridge as you're tensioning each string. The graphite / wax will help prevent this, but lookout in case there's enough friction for your tightening string to pull on the bridge and make it lean upwards towards the fingerboard. If it starts to move give it a sharp tap back into place (safe ONLY if your notches are nicely cut with rounded leading/trailing edges and lubricated with graphite so the bridge doesn't yank back the other strings as you tap it, potentially damaging the winding. The strings should all glide freely over the bridge as you tap it back into place - hence the graphite).