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Posted
1 minute ago, Marcoelwray said:

@Grangur @dyerseve 

I just can't take decent bass pictures.

Even harder to judge glossiness (is that word ok?) on a picture.

 

no worries mate, its all good. Did you see my earlier question about the 3M sanding pads you use? Just wanted to know if they are thin or thick as I use some thin ones which are outstanding especially for Warwicks!

Posted
18 minutes ago, Marcoelwray said:

@Grangur @dyerseve 

I just can't take decent bass pictures.

Even harder to judge glossiness (is that word ok?) on a picture.

 

All good here too. We're all wanting the same thing.  Somehow a nice satin looks more stylish than high-gloss. I'm sure sanding to a really fine finish increases the glossiness of the finish.

Sometimes I don't even sand, but use a blade and scrape the surface to get a good smooth finish.

Guest Marcoelwray
Posted
14 minutes ago, dyerseve said:

no worries mate, its all good. Did you see my earlier question about the 3M sanding pads you use? Just wanted to know if they are thin or thick as I use some thin ones which are outstanding especially for Warwicks!

Yes but I didn't answer, sorry. I am not really sure about my English vocabulary on this, so I'll explain like I'm 3. 

I use a foam block which is technically for wrap a paper on it and don't damage the wood curves. I do not think it's meant for that, but as there is some shiny dust (diamond?) in it, I polish the frets with it. I'll make a picture.

Posted
1 hour ago, Marcoelwray said:

Yes but I didn't answer, sorry. I am not really sure about my English vocabulary on this, so I'll explain like I'm 3. 

I use a foam block which is technically for wrap a paper on it and don't damage the wood curves. I do not think it's meant for that, but as there is some shiny dust (diamond?) in it, I polish the frets with it. I'll make a picture.

Thanks Marco.

Here is what I use:

https://www.cromwell.co.uk/shop/abrasives/hand-finishing-abrasives/03809-soft-back-sponge-115x140x5mm-fine-pack-of-10/p/MMM2016018M

 

Guest Marcoelwray
Posted (edited)
36 minutes ago, dyerseve said:

Ok , ok I seeeeeee! I used to use same kind of thing (or the same, anyway it was 3M) for wood finishing..

Here mine:

https://www.wholesalemarine.com/3mtm-sanding-sponge-cp001-fine.html

I use it with sand paper and as a bare finisher... Very practical to hold compared to the "sheets" like you....

Edited by Marcoelwray
Posted (edited)
12 hours ago, Marcoelwray said:

Ok , ok I seeeeeee! I used to use same kind of thing (or the same, anyway it was 3M) for wood finishing..

Here mine:

https://www.wholesalemarine.com/3mtm-sanding-sponge-cp001-fine.html

I use it with sand paper and as a bare finisher... Very practical to hold compared to the "sheets" like you....

I use these for wood, but often use them, wrapped round with fine grit (1000 - 2500) paper. The sponge molds to the curves in the wood more than a cork block.

If I need to clean up the wood between frets I use a  sharp blade and scrape the wood. Then I polish the frets with Crimson Guitars' Fret rubbers.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/161779971122

 

Edited by Grangur
Posted (edited)

Sorry, @Marcoelwray but I don't like that video. He starts by using 400 grit on 1 fret. Doing it on 1 fret will cause that fret to be lower than the others.

If you're going to use 400 grit, you should use this on a levelling beam and level all the frets at the same time. Also, 400 grit is too harsh for getting rid of dirt - so is wire wool.

The way he used the sanding block is AWFUL!!!  You can see in the video, he's also sanding the fingerboard at the same time. But he's not sanding with the grain. He's sanding across the grain - no wonder the wood looks awful. 

When he's finished block-sanding the frets he says "you can really see the difference". Yes, you can. Those frets are lower than the others!

He then uses the Sidol. But he doesn't mask the wood. This is why the fretboard has all the white stuff in the grain of the wood. Using masking tape, prevents this.

Sorry Marco, I would never let that idiot near any bass of mine. 

Edit: Sorry for the harsh comments, but watching that video made me cringe!

Edited by Grangur
Guest Marcoelwray
Posted
3 hours ago, Grangur said:

Sorry, @Marcoelwray but I don't like that video. He starts by using 400 grit on 1 fret. Doing it on 1 fret will cause that fret to be lower than the others.

If you're going to use 400 grit, you should use this on a levelling beam and level all the frets at the same time. Also, 400 grit is too harsh for getting rid of dirt - so is wire wool.

The way he used the sanding block is AWFUL!!!  You can see in the video, he's also sanding the fingerboard at the same time. But he's not sanding with the grain. He's sanding across the grain - no wonder the wood looks awful. 

When he's finished block-sanding the frets he says "you can really see the difference". Yes, you can. Those frets are lower than the others!

He then uses the Sidol. But he doesn't mask the wood. This is why the fretboard has all the white stuff in the grain of the wood. Using masking tape, prevents this.

Sorry Marco, I would never let that idiot near any bass of mine. 

Edit: Sorry for the harsh comments, but watching that video made me cringe!

My dear Richard,

You are commenting a video I've made myself.

But you missed totally the point. it was just a demo for @dyerseve to show him how I work with frets.

I'm sorry I shocked you, but:

- I'm just doing 1 fret for demo's sake.

- 400 grit is to remove "big" marks in the frets

- I use this sanding block again for demo's sake, because I was speaking about that with @dyerseve. 

- I'm telling in the video that's a old Ibanez neck I use as a template.

You just insult me of being an idiot.... :(

Posted (edited)
12 minutes ago, Grangur said:

Hi @Marcoelwray, I apologise unreservedly.   

Very embarrassed.    :(   You aren't an idiot. I know you're better than that. I'm an idiot for jumping in with both feet.

I feel it would have been helpful to yourself if you had watched the video with the sound turned on as Marco does give an excellent commentary on what he is doing and why is going it and the compromises he is making for the sake of making a quick but informative example of his fret polishing method.😉

to be fair I am still not converted by Marco's video to the method he uses. I still prefer the wire wool method. I guess I am just a creature of habit - or just lazy lol.

Edited by dyerseve
Guest Marcoelwray
Posted
11 minutes ago, Grangur said:

Hi @Marcoelwray, I apologise unreservedly.   

Very embarrassed.    :(   You aren't an idiot. I know you're better than that. I'm an idiot for jumping in with both feet.

No harm done mate, I'm just kidding, I knwo you missed the point on this one :D !

Still love ya :) 

Posted
On 04/12/2018 at 18:42, WinterMute said:

Here's some pics as promised:

 

DSC_0038.jpg

DSC_0036.jpg

DSC_0012.JPG

What an absolute beauty mate! Some really interesting grain on the body. I now have serious GAS!!!

Posted
2 hours ago, Marcoelwray said:

So I help you right now with this 

https://m.thomann.de/be/warwick_masterbuilt_thumb_bass_nt_4.htm

Oh, stupid me, this is not so expensive... Let's go for a 5:

https://m.thomann.de/be/warwick_masterbuilt_thumb_bass_nt_5.htm

Hope you're doing better now mate. 😁

Thanks MATE! 🙄

To be honest I actually prefer the look and feel of the vintage Warwicks (84-90) to the modern ones 

The current Masterbuilt range have some beautiful touches like the wooden cavity covers and tuners but the cost is a bit rough when you can score a vintage Warwick for about a third of that cost!

Guest Marcoelwray
Posted

Sure! But the only thing that makes me prefer older ones (except price) is the little flat old frets... WHY DO THEY STOP THAT?

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Ooh thanks, tempting - as you say, quite significantly overpriced imo too, especially given the condition of the back, still got the original (rubbish) tedur nut etc. I’m only half an hour from Colchester!!!

 

Guest Marcoelwray
Posted
25 minutes ago, Risk101 said:

Ooh thanks, tempting - as you say, quite significantly overpriced imo too, especially given the condition of the back, still got the original (rubbish) tedur nut etc. I’m only half an hour from Colchester!!!

 

Just curious, what's the price for, that? 1500£ didn't sounded too much for a LTD warwick to me.... But I know nothing about used values....

Posted

In my (humble!) opinion if it was in absolutely top condition, with the brass “JAN” I would say about £1,300/1,400.

As it is, I would think more like £1,000/1,100 or so. All very subjective of course because some people aren’t too bothered about the cosmetics!

🤔

Guest Marcoelwray
Posted

I'm totally addicted to WWicks cosmetic! Every mm of wood has to be perfect... Other basses I don't care, strangely. 

  • 1 month later...

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