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Ebonol fingerboards ?


Nostromo
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Hi,
Not quite sure where to post this ? . . so - if anyone thinks I've posted in the wrong section then please let me know ?
Have been wondering about a fretless bass - some of the more budget models seem to be offered with Ebonol fingerboards ? . .about which I know very little !
The squier vintage modified fretless bass is an example that comes to mind ?
I've done a bit of surfing and know that Ebonol is some sort of paper & resin concoction ? . . . . but . . .
Does anyone know if these necks are any good ? . . . I'm speculating, for example, that they may just be cheap fretboards . . which, inevitably, means they are probably going to be bonded over equally cheap low quality necks ? . . but . . maybe the whole Ebonol thing is ok ? . . . and maybe they didn't ought to be dismissed as some cheap avoidable substitute ?
Any advice welcome ? :)

Edited by Nostromo
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Ebanol is the future. :)

Ok maybe not - but to be honest, I love the way it feels as a playing surface. (The Curbow in my sig has an ebanol fretboard). It looks so purdy when polished (lovely "mirror" effect) and has a great touch to it.

If all things were equal, I would choose an ebanol fingerboard on a custom.

Some people have said that it gives quite a punchy sound compared to other materials - and whilst I don't know enough to back that up, I will say that the Cort Curbow is incredibly punchy (perhaps too much for my tastes).

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Yup, not half bad.. I'm selling this Crafter 5 string:
[url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=48674"]http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=48674[/url]

The Ebonol is on what seems to be a nice maple neck, and I did a few gigs on it with quite the opposite of any complaints about tone.
Bought it as a stopgap; filled the gap well and truly now! :lol:
[url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=44673"]http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=44673[/url] and an Overwater fretless. :) :rolleyes:

Where are you in the country, Nostromo? You're welcome to a play on this if you're around the North, whether you want to buy it or not. I work close to the M62.

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I have a VMJ with the ebanol board, it marks up quite early with roundwounds (as does everything not epoxied to within an inch of its life), but it;s not bad by any means.

I think its brighter than ebony or rosewood (thats just a suspicion however) and I've nener played a maple fretless.

It feels very slick, sort of between a very good Ebony and a graphite.

I like it a lot.

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That Talkbass description was right though - you get lots of clackety-clack as the strings hit the fingerboard. Also, as the strings 'mwah' you hear a bit of harsh rattling as the string vibrates against the board. That's why I prefer something a bit softer like rosewood, and with flats or half rounds, fingerboard wear won't be an issue.

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I have an ebanol/ebonol (both spellings seem to be used!) board on my fretless and it sounds very natural. As said rounds churned it up a bit but it's a lot more hard-wearing than rosewood, even though i preferred the latter as a playing surface

I'd say go for it, it's the best cheap alternative and looks good too

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The old metal necked Kramer basses used ebanol and they were anything but cheap at the time.
I've heard of one bass (a Cort Curbow) where the neck would bow drastically with changes in humidity - I guess the wood expands/contracts and the ebanol doesn't, but that's only one bass. The owner said you could use it as a hygrometer. Its tough ol' stuff.

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[quote name='MoonBassAlpha' post='525498' date='Jun 26 2009, 11:23 PM']I've heard of one bass (a Cort Curbow) where the neck would bow drastically with changes in humidity - I guess the wood expands/contracts and the ebanol doesn't, but that's only one bass.[/quote]
If that's true - then surely it would apply to all guitars with wood+ebanol neck combinations?

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I've never had a fretless ebony fretboard, only the fretted one I have on my gold warmoth.

Ebonol gives a really punchy sound, even with flats which is what I'm using at present.

It will tear up with roundwounds after a while, so flats or half/ground wound strings are best for preserving it.

Visually it is smooth and has a consistent colour and comes up great after a good clean with WD40

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[quote name='Eight' post='525758' date='Jun 27 2009, 10:17 AM']If that's true - then surely it would apply to all guitars with wood+ebanol neck combinations?[/quote]
I think it depends on how well the wood is sealed against humidity, I dunno! It did belong to the wife of the luthier that I normally use though, and he seemed resigned to having to tweak the truss rod regularly with changing weather.

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[quote name='Eight' post='525758' date='Jun 27 2009, 10:17 AM']If that's true - then surely it would apply to all guitars with wood+ebanol neck combinations?[/quote]
Nope! Not this one.


It doesn't have a truss-rod, either!!!

Or this one, for that matter (but it does have a truss-rod)


These have Phenolic Resin fretboards. Wiki it, and you'll discover that Ebanol/Ebonol/Phenolic 'boards are all much of a muchness.

(Edit for quick thought) BOTH of these have painted necks. Maybe that's a contributory factor?

Edited by Lfalex v1.1
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Phenolic fingerboards tend to be used where a wood board might react more to ambient humidity than the neck - so Kramer (alu neck) but also Zon, Status and original Steinbergers have all used it..together with more budget makers. Good stuff, but will mark quickly on a fretless with steel round-wound strings. I've seen Zon basses with a shiny hard coating - just like the Pedulla, but not over ebony wood.

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  • 3 weeks later...

info about ebanol (http://www.chemblink.com/products/67801-20-1.htm)

they started doing clarinets in this type of polymer with success due to the cost and availablity of grenadilla ebony
for the bass i would guess its a aquisition and machineability plus exercise
the polymers dont shrink or crack and dont need maintenance

bassoons are made now of polymers

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