bobbass4k Posted July 26, 2009 Share Posted July 26, 2009 A clean blender, I tried a friend's RAT and really liked the sound except for the low end loss, I was originally gonna add a clean blend to one, but then it kind of evolved into it's own project, al etched me a pcb, schem and stuff here: [url="http://gaussmarkov.net/wordpress/circuits/b-blender/"]http://gaussmarkov.net/wordpress/circuits/b-blender/[/url] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve Posted July 27, 2009 Share Posted July 27, 2009 [quote name='bobbass4k' post='551552' date='Jul 26 2009, 02:16 AM']A clean blender, I tried a friend's RAT and really liked the sound except for the low end loss, I was originally gonna add a clean blend to one, but then it kind of evolved into it's own project, al etched me a pcb, schem and stuff here: [url="http://gaussmarkov.net/wordpress/circuits/b-blender/"]http://gaussmarkov.net/wordpress/circuits/b-blender/[/url][/quote] I think it's a good idea to do it as a separate project, if you get the building bug, you can use it for them too. There's a great link to a free spice simulation app on there too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cm261 Posted September 20, 2009 Share Posted September 20, 2009 (edited) Hey there, looking to build one of these 'fuzz clones', using this schematic [url="http://img60.imageshack.us/img60/5816/woollysd1.jpg"]here[/url], but while the 10k pots are available [url="http://www.bitsbox.co.uk/resistors/potentiometers.html"]here[/url] (does it matter which of these 10k pots i go for?), they do not have the 2k or 500k pots. Could I use a 1k instead of the 2k? I assume the 470k would be fine as a replacement for the 500k? Also I have no idea where to start with [url="http://www.bitsbox.co.uk/caps.html"]capacitors[/url], so translating the caps on that schematic into what I would actually need to buy from there would be very much appreciated. In case it wasn't painfully obvious this will be my first attempt at anything like this Cheers EDIT: By the way, let me know if I need to remove that schematic link. Edited September 20, 2009 by cm261 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Protium Posted September 20, 2009 Share Posted September 20, 2009 [quote name='cm261' post='603831' date='Sep 20 2009, 07:07 PM']Hey there, looking to build one of these 'fuzz clones', using this schematic [url="http://img60.imageshack.us/img60/5816/woollysd1.jpg"]here[/url], but while the 10k pots are available [url="http://www.bitsbox.co.uk/resistors/potentiometers.html"]here[/url] (does it matter which of these 10k pots i go for?), they do not have the 2k or 500k pots. Could I use a 1k instead of the 2k? I assume the 470k would be fine as a replacement for the 500k? Also I have no idea where to start with [url="http://www.bitsbox.co.uk/caps.html"]capacitors[/url], so translating the caps on that schematic into what I would actually need to buy from there would be very much appreciated. In case it wasn't painfully obvious this will be my first attempt at anything like this Cheers EDIT: By the way, let me know if I need to remove that schematic link.[/quote] You need linear pots all round. 470k will be fine in place of 500k. I used a 4.7k pot with a 3.5k resistor in parallel for the 2k pot, but there is little difference at the bottom end of the range, am going to test a 1k pot on the next one. Actually looking on Bitsbox, there is a 2k2 linear pot 3rd option down, the blue one I just used normal ceramic caps, and make sure your electrolytics are 10V or higher spec Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cm261 Posted September 20, 2009 Share Posted September 20, 2009 Wow, fast reply! Ok cool, so I can switch the 500k pot out for a 470k one, and the 2k pot can be switched out for a 2k2 one? Regarding the different types of caps on the schematic - there are those shown as two solid black rectangles, and 2 others shown as one black and one white rectangle - I assume that the former are the equivalent of the pF ones, and the latter the equaivalent of the nF ones on [url="http://www.bitsbox.co.uk/cercaps.html"]this list[/url]? I'm also guessing that all these components off of the bitsbox site will be of sufficient quality to build a pedal like this? Cheers again, sorry for the noob questions ^_^ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
harvey1-8 Posted September 20, 2009 Share Posted September 20, 2009 [quote name='nick' post='549908' date='Jul 24 2009, 10:48 AM']What are thinking of building mate?[/quote] Really late reply: Nothing with elephant in the name. Nothing in mind at the moment, just wanted to have a play. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Protium Posted September 20, 2009 Share Posted September 20, 2009 The black/white ones are electrolytic caps (http://www.bitsbox.co.uk/ecaps.html) which are polar, i.e. they need to be placed in the circuit board the correct way round. You need two 100uF of these. The black/black ones are standard caps, the ceramic ones from bitsbox will be fine, you require two 10nF and two 220nF. These can be connected either way round Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cm261 Posted September 20, 2009 Share Posted September 20, 2009 Ahhh I see. The 100uF electrolytic caps come in 16/25/35/etc V types, what difference does this make, if any? The only 220nF's stocked by bitsbox are 'Multilayer' ceramic capacitors, is this what I'm looking for? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Protium Posted September 20, 2009 Share Posted September 20, 2009 [quote name='cm261' post='603909' date='Sep 20 2009, 08:26 PM']Ahhh I see. The 100uF electrolytic caps come in 16/25/35/etc V types, what difference does this make, if any? The only 220nF's stocked by bitsbox are 'Multilayer' ceramic capacitors, is this what I'm looking for?[/quote] The pedal runs on 9V so anything rated above this will be OK, a 100uF 10V or 16V will be fine. The multilayer caps will be fine, they're the ones I used Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cm261 Posted September 20, 2009 Share Posted September 20, 2009 Good stuff, looks like I can order everything I need from just 1 site then. Do I want to make the 10nF's multi's then as well? Would this be better/make any kind of difference? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Al Heeley Posted September 20, 2009 Author Share Posted September 20, 2009 [quote name='cm261' post='603919' date='Sep 20 2009, 08:37 PM']Good stuff, looks like I can order everything I need from just 1 site then. Do I want to make the 10nF's multi's then as well? Would this be better/make any kind of difference?[/quote] You won't notice any difference. Just don't get Tantalum caps, which are also polar - like electrolytic they have to be the 'right way round' and they are fragile and can blow easily if wrong, the Tantalums look like normal small value caps though, rather than the marked metal cylinders of the electrolytic caps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cm261 Posted September 20, 2009 Share Posted September 20, 2009 Excellent, thanks a lot for the replies, I think I'll get down to some ordering tomorrow! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cm261 Posted September 23, 2009 Share Posted September 23, 2009 (edited) Finally got round to ordering a while ago, they didnt have any 4k99 resistors so got some 5k1's instead, that ok? Also got myself a 3PDT switch off of ebay, since that seems to be the best way to go, so all I need to do now is translate the schematic into a stripboard diagram, which I'm bound to get wrong at least a dozen times lol. Starting to think I may have bitten off a bit more than I'd bargained for, but I'll post my complete parts list (with prices) and a stripboard diagram when (or if!) I've come up with one, in case anyone is interested or is looking to do the same build. Edited September 23, 2009 by cm261 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nick Posted September 23, 2009 Share Posted September 23, 2009 (edited) [quote name='cm261' post='606843' date='Sep 23 2009, 05:08 PM']Finally got round to ordering a while ago, they didnt have any 4k99 resistors so got some 5k1's instead, that ok? Also got myself a 3PDT switch off of ebay, since that seems to be the best way to go, so all I need to do now is translate the schematic into a stripboard diagram, which I'm bound to get wrong at least a dozen times lol. Starting to think I may have bitten off a bit more than I'd bargained for, but I'll post my complete parts list (with prices) and a stripboard diagram when (or if!) I've come up with one, in case anyone is interested or is looking to do the same build.[/quote] Hi, Got the veroboard layout myself - it's an easy build. PM me your email address, if you want me to send it to you - no need to translate schematic mate! Cheers Edited September 23, 2009 by nick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cm261 Posted September 24, 2009 Share Posted September 24, 2009 ^ Excellent, was dreading trying to get it right on stripboard and messing it up. PM'd! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Al Heeley Posted September 24, 2009 Author Share Posted September 24, 2009 ...and the 5.1k resistors are fine, well within the +/- 10% tolerance of mose resistors anyway. Good luck with the build - great pedal if you have good double glazing and deaf old neighbours. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cm261 Posted September 25, 2009 Share Posted September 25, 2009 Cheers mate, hopefully it'll all go smoothly. Then if it does my next problem will be how it gets on with active basses, since it has a strong reputation for not liking them, as my main bass is a Cort Artisan A5. I do have a nice red Ibanez GSR190 knocking around though lol... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cm261 Posted September 26, 2009 Share Posted September 26, 2009 Was obviously getting ahead of myself with the active bass issues, since I've managed to completely cock up the build somehow. No idea what's wrong with it, but have ordered a solderless prototyping breadboard and a multimeter so that I can try and sniff out the problem. I know the circuit isn't complicated, I just suck serious ass at this obviously. Still, I'm gonna get this thing sorted and working if it kills me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Al Heeley Posted September 26, 2009 Author Share Posted September 26, 2009 do you know how to trace circuit faults using an audio probe? Really valuable to work out where toe bad solder or broken track is. Check you remembered to put the transistors in their sockets - don't laugh - it happened to me on 2 builds - I was scratching my head for 20 minutes wondereing why there was no sound..... Audio Probe: [url="http://www.diystompboxes.com/pedals/debug.html"]http://www.diystompboxes.com/pedals/debug.html[/url] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cm261 Posted September 26, 2009 Share Posted September 26, 2009 Ta very much for the link mate, never heard of that method before. Regarding the transistors, I didn't use sockets so that can't be the problem, though I might have cooked the transistors I spose. Cheers for the advice, much appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Al Heeley Posted September 27, 2009 Author Share Posted September 27, 2009 ALWAYS use sockets, so theres no chance of cooking the trannies - some are quite sensitive! When u get yr multimeter wire it up and check the voltages at the legs of each transistor are correct. This can also lead you towards solving the problem. Good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
umph Posted September 27, 2009 Share Posted September 27, 2009 [quote name='cm261' post='609733' date='Sep 27 2009, 12:24 AM']Ta very much for the link mate, never heard of that method before. Regarding the transistors, I didn't use sockets so that can't be the problem, though I might have cooked the transistors I spose. Cheers for the advice, much appreciated.[/quote] very unlikely unless your using a to powerful power supply, my moto is check it and check it again you'll get better at these kind've things Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Al Heeley Posted September 28, 2009 Author Share Posted September 28, 2009 I think he's referring to possible excessive heat from the soldering iron, not an electric current issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Protium Posted September 28, 2009 Share Posted September 28, 2009 When you first power it up set the volume to zero, this is a very loud pedal Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iamapirate Posted September 28, 2009 Share Posted September 28, 2009 (edited) [quote name='Protium' post='611004' date='Sep 28 2009, 04:02 PM']When you first power it up set the volume to zero, this is a very loud pedal [/quote] Really? With mine it's silent at 0, and then at about 1 or 2 ( or 7 o'clock) it suddenly turns into a BEAST! Oh and I put this through my Hartke preamp with full grit and harmonics and got myself a perfect supermassive black hole tone Edited September 28, 2009 by iamapirate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.