katri Posted September 29, 2009 Share Posted September 29, 2009 can i ask why it has a EH nano logo on it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Protium Posted September 29, 2009 Share Posted September 29, 2009 [quote name='iamapirate' post='611369' date='Sep 28 2009, 10:27 PM']Really? With mine it's silent at 0, and then at about 1 or 2 ( or 7 o'clock) it suddenly turns into a BEAST! Oh and I put this through my Hartke preamp with full grit and harmonics and got myself a perfect supermassive black hole tone [/quote] I know it is silent at 0. I said to start at zero because you don't know how loud it is going to be if you first switch it on at 50% or 100% do you? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Al Heeley Posted September 29, 2009 Author Share Posted September 29, 2009 [quote name='katri' post='612438' date='Sep 29 2009, 08:38 PM']can i ask why it has a EH nano logo on it?[/quote] The enclosure was originally meant for a bassballs clone and I was playing around with logos and some new dry inkjet rub decal paper. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
umph Posted September 29, 2009 Share Posted September 29, 2009 [quote name='Al Heeley' post='610990' date='Sep 28 2009, 04:52 PM']I think he's referring to possible excessive heat from the soldering iron, not an electric current issue.[/quote] yeah thats what i meant when i said it was very unlikely, its quite unlikely you'll cook a transistor unless you have your soldering iron on the leg for quite a bit of time! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cm261 Posted September 29, 2009 Share Posted September 29, 2009 Still not got the multimeter or the prototyping board, but they must surely come tomorrow.... he says.... Anyways, in response to posts: Deafening people is the least of my worries at the moment to be honest, lol. I MAY have cooked the transistors, since I've never soldered before I wouldnt know, but I highly doubt it, and I have plenty spare anyways. Either way I'll find out when I get the multimeter. The EH logo looks cool I reckon. Ordered a plastic case for mine since I plan on getting the finished product in the smallest housing possible, so I'm using the current one as a tester. Am well aware that radio interference could be an issue with the plastic case. I theoretically have enough to make 2 of these pedals, if someone is in any way interested in the 2nd one, although I'm having more than enough trouble getting the first one to work before I can think about a second, plus I may test one for buffering for use with an active bass. I'm sure there's other stuff that I'm missing, but that's what the edit button is for. Will post back when there is some progress with stuff. Cheers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cm261 Posted October 1, 2009 Share Posted October 1, 2009 (edited) Solderless breadboard and multimeter FINALLY arrived today. After prodding at my current circuit with the multimeter for a while I couldn't find a single thing wrong with it. I was expecting to find cold solders all over the shop but I couldn't find a single one. So to hell with that lol, I made the circuit again on the solderless breadboard (having cut the potentiometers off of the old circuit) and it lives! The layout is slightly different than it would be on stripboard, but even accounting for the time it took me to figure it out and double check eveything it only took me a very small fraction of the time to get it together on the solderless board than the stripboard, and it actually worked this time. The solderless board is also small enough to fit into the housing I have (just a temporary plactic one at the moment to get an idea of the size, with holes drilled for the pots), and was very inexpensive anyway, plus the fact that any components going wrong down the line can be swapped out in about 3 seconds flat without any soldering, so that's where the circuit is staying. The only problem that I have is that 3 of the 4 knobs (the pinch knob being the exception) work back to front, i.e. turning anti-clockwise increases the volume etc. I really don't give too much of a damn at this point, but how would I go about sorting this? By swapping over the way round the wires are on the board (effectively turning the pots upside down)? This issue makes me doubly glad that I can just move stuff about on the prototyping board. Will be rehousing the circuit in it's permanent metal box, which will have to be drilled and painted, at some point in the near future, as well as incorporating the footswitch and led into the circuit (they have been omitted so far in order to exclude some variables in the case of the circuit not working). Cheers. Edited October 1, 2009 by cm261 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Al Heeley Posted October 1, 2009 Author Share Posted October 1, 2009 Congrats! Yep - to reverse the pot action simply swap the wires on lugs 1 & 3. I found one of the knobs surprisingly ineffective for the overall tone quality (now which one was it...?) and would probably end up replacing that with a trim pot the next time I put one together. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nick Posted October 1, 2009 Share Posted October 1, 2009 Well done Craig - welcome to the world of cloning! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cm261 Posted October 1, 2009 Share Posted October 1, 2009 Hah, just emailed you actually Nick. Already sort of on the lookout for the next project, even though this one isn't completely finished, which may well be that llama clone that you showed me the schematic for Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Al Heeley Posted October 2, 2009 Author Share Posted October 2, 2009 +1 for a bass Llama clone - another great distortion/fuzz box Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lateralus462 Posted October 2, 2009 Share Posted October 2, 2009 Just got all of the bits and pieces together I need to make one of these - it's going to be a long weekend!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
umph Posted October 2, 2009 Share Posted October 2, 2009 [quote name='Al Heeley' post='614710' date='Oct 2 2009, 12:43 PM']+1 for a bass Llama clone - another great distortion/fuzz box[/quote] yeah and with all those spare opamp stages it leaves lots of oportunity for modding! such as adding a clean blend and a active tone stack! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve Posted October 2, 2009 Share Posted October 2, 2009 [quote name='umph' post='614742' date='Oct 2 2009, 01:06 PM']yeah and with all those spare opamp stages it leaves lots of oportunity for modding! such as adding a clean blend and a active tone stack![/quote] I've lost touch with this thread, have I missed something? I thought the llama was built from inverters and not op amps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gnasher1993 Posted October 2, 2009 Share Posted October 2, 2009 [quote name='steve' post='614751' date='Oct 2 2009, 01:15 PM']I've lost touch with this thread, have I missed something? I thought the llama was built from inverters and not op amps[/quote] It uses an inverting op-amp, a CD4049 I believe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve Posted October 2, 2009 Share Posted October 2, 2009 I thought someone had modified the design, - CD4049's have six single input line buffers in one chip, op amps have an inverting and non-inverting input. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
umph Posted October 2, 2009 Share Posted October 2, 2009 [quote name='steve' post='614799' date='Oct 2 2009, 01:45 PM']I thought someone had modified the design, - CD4049's have six single input line buffers in one chip, op amps have an inverting and non-inverting input.[/quote] it's an inverting opamp. [url="http://pdf1.alldatasheet.com/datasheet-pdf/view/170415/STMICROELECTRONICS/HCF4049UBEY.html"]http://pdf1.alldatasheet.com/datasheet-pdf...CF4049UBEY.html[/url] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve Posted October 2, 2009 Share Posted October 2, 2009 [quote name='umph' post='614815' date='Oct 2 2009, 01:56 PM']it's an inverting opamp. [url="http://pdf1.alldatasheet.com/datasheet-pdf/view/170415/STMICROELECTRONICS/HCF4049UBEY.html"]http://pdf1.alldatasheet.com/datasheet-pdf...CF4049UBEY.html[/url][/quote] can you elaborate pls mate, the datasheet bears out my view I thought... from the datasheet[quote]It is an inverting Hex Buffer/Converter and feature logic level conversions using only one supply voltage (VDD)...... ......This device is intended for use as CMOS to DTL/TTL converters......[/quote] the chip drawing contains six logoc symbols for hex converters and the datasheet has a truth table, and there's no mention of op amps. I also read that the read llama was an innovative design in that it used what was essentially a digital IC for an analogue purpose. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Al Heeley Posted October 2, 2009 Author Share Posted October 2, 2009 yep its an entirely inappropriate but cool use for a IC logic chip isn't it? Found to give a really nice harmonic overdrive/distortion - it makes for a great home build project and is very moddable as umph says. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cm261 Posted October 2, 2009 Share Posted October 2, 2009 I dont understand a word that has been said in like the last 7posts Maybe I won't build this thing lol.... Out of interest, what other things have people here built/what would you suggest building? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Al Heeley Posted October 2, 2009 Author Share Posted October 2, 2009 [quote name='cm261' post='614998' date='Oct 2 2009, 05:22 PM']I dont understand a word that has been said in like the last 7posts Maybe I won't build this thing lol.... Out of interest, what other things have people here built/what would you suggest building?[/quote] For me, the Tubescreamer is the best - I've built 5 of them now and 4 of those have ended up as part of friends pedalboards. Dyna Comp - classic compressor, worth a build. The other really useful easy build is a basic a/b or a/b/y box. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gnasher1993 Posted October 2, 2009 Share Posted October 2, 2009 If you want a more challenging build you could try something like the MXR envelope filter or a Small Stone. If you're looking for a really simple build, try the Orange Squeezer or the EH LPB-1. Somewhere in between those...maybe the EHX Big Muff Pi (the op-amp version - circa '77 - sounds awesome). The Vox Repeat Percussion could be cool as well. I've got schematics for all those so if anyone wants them, let me know what you want and PM me with your email address. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nick Posted October 2, 2009 Share Posted October 2, 2009 (edited) [quote name='cm261' post='614998' date='Oct 2 2009, 05:22 PM']I dont understand a word that has been said in like the last 7posts Maybe I won't build this thing lol.... Out of interest, what other things have people here built/what would you suggest building?[/quote] Wouldn't worry about that to be honest. Myself, I like to know what's going on in the circuit etc....but at the end of the day who cares. As long as you can build it & it works - so what if it's not understandable how it makes the sound you like. Would still recommend you build a Red Llama, it's an easy one, sounds great, plus Al suggested some good mods I wanna try myself on my next build of one. Another, effect that I think is quite handy is [url="http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php/v/bcreekmur/paralooper.jpg.html?g2_imageViewsIndex=1"]Paralooper[/url]. Not built from this layout myself, but it is 'verified'. Basically a good blender. I understand the Barge Concepts VFB-2 'Variable Feedback & Blend Bypass Looper' is somewhat based on this. Edited October 2, 2009 by nick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cm261 Posted October 2, 2009 Share Posted October 2, 2009 Wow that seems a complicated circuit for what it does. I like it though! What are those 'U' components? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve Posted October 2, 2009 Share Posted October 2, 2009 the U components are ICs, each IC is a dual op amp, ie two op amps on one chip, hence U1-A and U1-B refer to op amp 'A' and op amp 'B' on chip 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nick Posted October 2, 2009 Share Posted October 2, 2009 (edited) [quote name='cm261' post='615273' date='Oct 2 2009, 09:36 PM']Wow that seems a complicated circuit for what it does. I like it though! What are those 'U' components?[/quote] Yeah...the ICs are TLO72's. More info on the Paralooper if you're interested [url="http://www.moosapotamus.net/THINGS/paraloop.htm"] here[/url] Edited October 2, 2009 by nick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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