Clarky Posted July 31, 2009 Share Posted July 31, 2009 (edited) I put a BadAss bridge and new strings (Chromes) on my CIJ 70RI P-bass this afternoon. The Chromes have higher tension than the previous TI Flats and so I had to adjust the truss rod. Here's the problem - the 70RI has a truss rod that can only be adjusted when the entire neck is removed, which in itself is a complete pain. The neck on my bass has obviously been removed so many times now that the four holes in the wooden heel of the neck have 'stripped' and lost their ability to grip the screws/bolts ... and I suspect my neck adjustment this afternoon was the final straw. Now the neck will not stay on tight and it moves with the string tension. Question is what should I do with the holes in the neck heel in order to allow the bolts to grip properly again and hold the neck pocket tight? Should I squirt in some superglue or use matches or other bits of wood to narrow the holes? Waddya say? Thx in advance Edited July 31, 2009 by Clarky Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moos3h Posted July 31, 2009 Share Posted July 31, 2009 Matches. Don't go the superglue route - pack a match or two in there and all sorted Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clarky Posted July 31, 2009 Author Share Posted July 31, 2009 [quote name='Moos3h' post='557353' date='Jul 31 2009, 07:03 PM']Matches. Don't go the superglue route - pack a match or two in there and all sorted [/quote] Thx, I will try this out immediately! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moos3h Posted July 31, 2009 Share Posted July 31, 2009 Use the end you don't strike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clarky Posted July 31, 2009 Author Share Posted July 31, 2009 (edited) After I had extinguished my bass ( ) this tip worked a treat in keeping the neck pocket nice and tight. Unfortunately the action is now cr@p on my bass and I'll have to take the neck off again to adjust the truss rod Edited July 31, 2009 by Clarky Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geoffbyrne Posted July 31, 2009 Share Posted July 31, 2009 I went down to B&Q & got some 3/8" or 1/4" dowel (not sure which), bored out the screw holes (don't go too deep!!!) and pushed in the dowel after dipping the ends in an excellent wood glue. Let it go off for 48 hours then you can re-drill a pilot hole for the screws. Worked fine for me. Geoff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clarky Posted July 31, 2009 Author Share Posted July 31, 2009 [quote name='geoffbyrne' post='557383' date='Jul 31 2009, 07:41 PM']I went down to B&Q & got some 3/8" or 1/4" dowel (not sure which), bored out the screw holes (don't go too deep!!!) and pushed in the dowel after dipping the ends in an excellent wood glue. Let it go off for 48 hours then you can re-drill a pilot hole for the screws. Worked fine for me. Geoff[/quote] Thanks Geoff, slightly more scientific than my stuff-two-matchsticks-down-each-hole method, albeit it does seem to have worked .... so far Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. Foxen Posted July 31, 2009 Share Posted July 31, 2009 Overkill way is have metal ferrules set in the neck and use machine bolts. Can't strip them. Did it on my franken jazz and it was beasty. Might not have such a 'bolt-on' tone though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geoffbyrne Posted August 1, 2009 Share Posted August 1, 2009 [quote name='geoffbyrne' post='557383' date='Jul 31 2009, 07:41 PM']I went down to B&Q & got some 3/8" or 1/4" dowel (not sure which), bored out the screw holes (don't go too deep!!!) and pushed in the dowel after dipping the ends in an excellent wood glue. Let it go off for 48 hours then you can re-drill a pilot hole for the screws. Worked fine for me. Geoff[/quote] I think that should have been 3/16th or 1/4"!!!!!!!!!!!! G. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neepheid Posted August 1, 2009 Share Posted August 1, 2009 Somewhat brutal, but very permanent solution to this problem: [url="http://www.manchesterguitartech.co.uk/hardware.html"]http://www.manchesterguitartech.co.uk/hardware.html[/url] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BassBunny Posted August 1, 2009 Share Posted August 1, 2009 [quote name='neepheid' post='557697' date='Aug 1 2009, 12:09 PM']Somewhat brutal, but very permanent solution to this problem: [url="http://www.manchesterguitartech.co.uk/hardware.html"]http://www.manchesterguitartech.co.uk/hardware.html[/url][/quote] You beat me to it. I know Steve quite well and it is cracking kit he has there. You can take the neck off as often as you like then.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. Foxen Posted August 1, 2009 Share Posted August 1, 2009 (edited) [quote name='BassBunny' post='557762' date='Aug 1 2009, 01:28 PM']You beat me to it. I know Steve quite well and it is cracking kit he has there. You can take the neck off as often as you like then.... [/quote] I beat you both to it. Fairly sure I can get the screws and inserts a whole lot cheaper if a bunch of people want to do that. I used allen (hex) head ones for exctra convenience, since a set of allen keys are much handier than screwdrivers. Edited August 1, 2009 by Mr. Foxen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BOD2 Posted August 1, 2009 Share Posted August 1, 2009 The matches will work. Cocktail sticks are slightly better (the wood is harder) and they're easier to poke into the screw holes. But as long as the screw gets a good grip is doesn't matter what you use. If the problem turns out to be the action rather the the truss rod (due to adding the BadAss) then have a look at the sticky at the top of this forum regarding how to shim the neck - it's quick and easy and since you can already remove the neck confidently that's half the battle. Good luck ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrcrow Posted August 2, 2009 Share Posted August 2, 2009 [quote name='geoffbyrne' post='557383' date='Jul 31 2009, 07:41 PM']I went down to B&Q & got some 3/8" or 1/4" dowel (not sure which), bored out the screw holes (don't go too deep!!!) and pushed in the dowel after dipping the ends in an excellent wood glue. Let it go off for 48 hours then you can re-drill a pilot hole for the screws. Worked fine for me. Geoff[/quote] this is the way to go another more engineered way is to fit threaded inserts and replace the wood screws with machine screws you can then take the neck off many times [url="http://www.modelfixings.co.uk/threaded_inserts.htm"]threaded inserts for wood[/url] i would get the body routed and the scratchplate to give access to the truss adjuster as a real modification...then you no longer have to remove the neck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest jonnyj Posted May 2, 2010 Share Posted May 2, 2010 I have this problem on one of my guitars. Some jackass before me for some reason has made one of the holes twice as big as the rest, leaving me with only 3 holes that work, 1 of which is stripped. Couldnt I attach something to the screw, for example wrap a heavy duty rubber band around it, filling up the gap? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beedster Posted May 2, 2010 Share Posted May 2, 2010 [quote name='BOD2' post='557942' date='Aug 1 2009, 05:41 PM']The matches will work. Cocktail sticks are slightly better (the wood is harder) and they're easier to poke into the screw holes. But as long as the screw gets a good grip is doesn't matter what you use. Good luck ![/quote] +1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stinson Posted May 2, 2010 Share Posted May 2, 2010 +2 the cocktail sticks work a treat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Fudge Posted May 2, 2010 Share Posted May 2, 2010 Remember Father Ted's car Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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