Picking up my Double bass

[fatgoogle]

On thursday ill hopefully be picking up my first double bass, Its not exactly what i was looking for but its already set up, a good price and its not far away, so im taking it hopefully.

I was wondering if any one has tips on checking a double bass to make its all in good condition and doesnt have any really flaws in its construction? Any were i should look for weakness's in it, and other things in general i should look out for? I really just need something that will last until i have proper money, and im really hoping this will be that instrument.



Also on another note, whats a decent reasonably priced pickup for double bass's, and i presume ill need a separate preamp as well. Any ones that bust the bank.

And my last question, is for any body playing in orchestras. I've always been in orchestras playing trumpet so im hoping to join one with double bass, but i was thinking surely a cheaper double bass, with worse projection will have barely any use in orchestra cause far from being heard, it will then have no real use. In orchestras ive played, to be honest ive never really noticed the DB, so i was wondering how you all come through.

[Gareth Hughes]

The easiest things to check are to see if the any of the seams have opened - ie if the front or back tables/plates have separated from the ribs/lower or upper bouts. It won't be life threatening if the have, but get them glued by a luthier asap.

A major thing to check is that the soundpost is still in place. Look inside the f-hole on the g-string side and check there is a wooden pole wedged into place from front to back. If it isn't there DONT play the bass. If the soundpost ever falls out of place DONT play the bass.

As for playing in an orchestra -play away. I've played in community orchestra's and they're always crying out for bass players. Don't worry about how much you're being heard by the rest of the orchestra. Use your time with them to learn as much as possible.

[fatgoogle]

Thanks very much Gareth, is the Sound post easy to see.

[Beer of the Bass]

[quote name='fatgoogle' post='581436' date='Aug 26 2009, 02:40 PM']Thanks very much Gareth, is the Sound post easy to see.[/quote]

Hi Fat-G, the soundpost is easy to find - If you look in the G-string side f-hole, it should be wedged straight between the top and back of the bass, close to where the bridge foot sits, but slightly further down. It's a thick dowel, a little like a piece of broom-handle. If it's not there or badly fitted, the top is at risk of sinking or worse. If it's a used bass you're buying from a player, it'll probably be in place, but it's well worth checking...

[fatgoogle]

So I picked it up, its loud, and will do the job.

But it defiantly needs the action lowered, and was wondering how much this generally costs, to have done. Im presuming i cant do it, because the bridge will need to be moved of done something with.

[PaulKing]

[quote name='fatgoogle' post='582826' date='Aug 27 2009, 07:55 PM']So I picked it up, its loud, and will do the job.

But it defiantly needs the action lowered, and was wondering how much this generally costs, to have done. Im presuming i cant do it, because the bridge will need to be moved of done something with.[/quote]

First thing to check - string height could be too high because bridge is in wrong place. The centres of the bridge feet should line up with the little notches cut into the f-holes. If your bridge is higher up thqan this, it could make the strings a couple of mm too high. So follow the noptes below to re-position the bridge.

If that's not the problem, you can still do some DIY and save oodles of quid on luthier fees.
Taking off the bridge is really not that scary.
1) Lie the bass flat. Do not pick it up again until you have finished this procedure...
2) Loosen off all the strings, each one a bit at a time to keep the pressure relatively even on the bridge.
3) When the strings are really quite loose, you'll be able to topple the bridge over easily. Make sure the tailpiece doesn't drop onto the surface of the bass and scratch it.
4) Take off the bridge to do whatever you need to do...
5) Reposition bridge, starting with it lying flat, feet pointing towards bottom of bass. Than lift the top up underthe strings, slotting the strings into the notches, making sure they don't catch under the fingerboard. Also make sure the tailgut (wire that connects the tailpiece to end pin) runs over the little wooden saddle at the bottom of the bass.
6) Good idea at this point to scrape a little pencil lead into the bridge notches to lubricate the strings.
7) Slide around the bridge until in the right place, check strings run centrally along fingerboard, then start tightening strings, again each one just a bit at a time.
8) As tension gets higher, watch the bridge doesn't pull towards the neck. if it does, just push it back so that the feet are flat, and the bridge at 90degrees to the top of the bass.
9) When strings are almost full tension, pick up the bass and finish off tuning.

To adjust the string height ...
1) Work out how much you want to lower height by (typical steel string heights for jazz are around 5-8 mm, normally heighest on E string.)
2) Draw a line vertically down from centre of each existing string notch.
3) Mark points on those lines xmm beneath existing notch. Then using a small round file, slowly deepen the notch (without widening if you can) until you reach that line.
4) You could put the bridge back on like this, but you'll have deep notches, which can affect the sound.
5) Ideally the notches should be only half the thickness of the string, so you should really sand off any excess wood from the top. Best to draw a line that follows the existing contour, that runs half a string thickness above your new notches. then sand down to this line.
6) Make sure the notches are smooth and rounded, no sharp edges. Scrape some pencil lead into them.
Job done.

Sounds scary, but isn't really...

Cheap decent pick ups: David gage Realist for jazz; Underwood, K+K BassMax, Revolution Solo II, Shadow 950 for all purposes. That'll do for starters. All around 100+ quid

[Stompbox]

Hey - I've just been having a look on this topic/thresd.

The information you've set out is really VERY helpful.

I've just got myself started on DB.

Thanks

[fingeringAm]

[quote name='PaulKing' post='588666' date='Sep 3 2009, 05:32 AM']First thing to check - string height could be too high because bridge is in wrong place. The centres of the bridge feet should line up with the little notches cut into the f-holes. If your bridge is higher up thqan this, it could make the strings a couple of mm too high. So follow the noptes below to re-position the bridge.

If that's not the problem, you can still do some DIY and save oodles of quid on luthier fees.
Taking off the bridge is really not that scary.
1) Lie the bass flat. Do not pick it up again until you have finished this procedure...
2) Loosen off all the strings, each one a bit at a time to keep the pressure relatively even on the bridge.
3) When the strings are really quite loose, you'll be able to topple the bridge over easily. Make sure the tailpiece doesn't drop onto the surface of the bass and scratch it.
4) Take off the bridge to do whatever you need to do...
5) Reposition bridge, starting with it lying flat, feet pointing towards bottom of bass. Than lift the top up underthe strings, slotting the strings into the notches, making sure they don't catch under the fingerboard. Also make sure the tailgut (wire that connects the tailpiece to end pin) runs over the little wooden saddle at the bottom of the bass.
6) Good idea at this point to scrape a little pencil lead into the bridge notches to lubricate the strings.
7) Slide around the bridge until in the right place, check strings run centrally along fingerboard, then start tightening strings, again each one just a bit at a time.
8) As tension gets higher, watch the bridge doesn't pull towards the neck. if it does, just push it back so that the feet are flat, and the bridge at 90degrees to the top of the bass.
9) When strings are almost full tension, pick up the bass and finish off tuning.

To adjust the string height ...
1) Work out how much you want to lower height by (typical steel string heights for jazz are around 5-8 mm, normally heighest on E string.)
2) Draw a line vertically down from centre of each existing string notch.
3) Mark points on those lines xmm beneath existing notch. Then using a small round file, slowly deepen the notch (without widening if you can) until you reach that line.
4) You could put the bridge back on like this, but you'll have deep notches, which can affect the sound.
5) Ideally the notches should be only half the thickness of the string, so you should really sand off any excess wood from the top. Best to draw a line that follows the existing contour, that runs half a string thickness above your new notches. then sand down to this line.
6) Make sure the notches are smooth and rounded, no sharp edges. Scrape some pencil lead into them.
Job done.

Sounds scary, but isn't really...

Cheap decent pick ups: David gage Realist for jazz; Underwood, K+K BassMax, Revolution Solo II, Shadow 950 for all purposes. That'll do for starters. All around 100+ quid[/quote]
REALLY good DIY setup suggestions
You sound like you've done this before.