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Just seen a great way to set neck relief. Lakland set up.


dave_bass5
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While watching the L.O.G. video's i came across this.
Its how Lakland set up their basses and while the measurements will of course vary i really like how Carl uses a straight edge to check the relief.
Ive not seen it done this way before and have always struggled with the cappo at first fret/hold down string up the other end of the neck method.

I did notice that he does all the setting up with strings at full tension but i guess thats probably to cut down on time for the video.

[url="http://www.youtube.com/user/LaklandOwners#play/uploads/9/cIzV9462xeE"]Lakland set up video.[/url]

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[quote name='dave_bass5' post='603436' date='Sep 20 2009, 11:30 AM']While watching the L.O.G. video's i came across this.
Its how Lakland set up their basses and while the measurements will of course vary i really like how Carl uses a straight edge to check the relief.
Ive not seen it done this way before and have always struggled with the cappo at first fret/hold down string up the other end of the neck method.

I did notice that he does all the setting up with strings at full tension but i guess thats probably to cut down on time for the video.[/quote]

There's some good stuff in that vid. Interesting to see how they setup basses in a factory situation.

Straightedges make assessing a neck a lot easier than trying to hold the string down at both ends. You can use part of a combination square (as in the vid) or a draughtsman's T-square. As long as it's straight that's all that matters.

I'm puzzled as to which parts of the setup you would do with the strings loose. Adjusting one thing has a knock on effect on another and the string needs to be at pitch to adjust neck, saddle heights and so on.

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I was always lead to believe that you adjust the truss rod with the strings slack. Same with the action. You do of course tighten them up between adjustments.
Not that i usually follow that rule most of the time.

I found some 18" steel rulers on line for about £1.80, they seem to do the job.

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[quote name='1976fenderhead' post='606998' date='Sep 23 2009, 07:29 PM']Great video, thx! Does anyone know the neck radius on that bass?[/quote]

You can get the radius from the Lakland website. Not sure what bass is it off hand but it will be pretty easy to work in out.

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[quote name='dave_bass5' post='606325' date='Sep 23 2009, 01:11 AM']I found some 18" steel rulers on line for about £1.80, they seem to do the job.[/quote]

They might be worth checking for straightness before using them - I was surprised by how far out cheap rulers can be.

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[quote name='Mikey R' post='607114' date='Sep 23 2009, 09:20 PM']They might be worth checking for straightness before using them - I was surprised by how far out cheap rulers can be.[/quote]

Yeah i checked them and they seem to be very straight, at the moment at least.

This has helped me set up my P5 a bit better as well.

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[quote name='dave_bass5' post='606325' date='Sep 23 2009, 01:11 AM']I was always lead to believe that you adjust the truss rod with the strings slack. Same with the action.[/quote]

Adjusting the truss rod or saddles with normal string tension is fine. If the neck won't go straight then more forceful tactics are required, so you'd then loosen the strings.

Just tune up after each adjustment as they'll send the instrument out of tune.

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[quote name='7string' post='608865' date='Sep 25 2009, 11:37 PM']Adjusting the truss rod or saddles with normal string tension is fine. If the neck won't go straight then more forceful tactics are required, so you'd then loosen the strings.

Just tune up after each adjustment as they'll send the instrument out of tune.[/quote]

I must admit I dont bother loosening the strings. Too lazy and impatient ;-) but i always thought i was doing it wrong.

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[quote name='wateroftyne' post='607100' date='Sep 23 2009, 09:02 PM']Great clip... thanks for posting it!

What a nice man. I wish he was my uncle.[/quote]
The other videos on that link are also interesting. Carl Pedigo (as well as Dan Lakin) has some interesting things to say about nuts, zero frets, pickups etc. that are of interest whether or not you're a Lakland user.

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[quote name='dave_bass5' post='606325' date='Sep 23 2009, 01:11 AM']I was always lead to believe that you adjust the truss rod with the strings slack. Same with the action. You do of course tighten them up between adjustments.
Not that i usually follow that rule most of the time.

I found some 18" steel rulers on line for about £1.80, they seem to do the job.[/quote]

good practice is to slacken between settings for
bow
action
intonation

i tend to do intonation on pitch...and move the saddle gently and slowly
if slackening off a saddle ..ease it as you unscrew

really you will avoid all string rubbing problems if you slacken off for all settings

dont forget to set your witness points

regarding setting bow...another method is to hold the string on 5th and 9th frets and plink the string at the 7th....it should just clear the fret and give out some sound...you cant use the amp because the string is only vibrating between the 5 and 9

i use it and it gives the lowest and most exact measurement for minimum bow

:)

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[quote name='TheBlueFalcon' post='610966' date='Sep 28 2009, 04:31 PM']Excellent find, thanks for sharing it. I've put it into another thread, as it's great to be able to see someone do it rather than just read how.[/quote]

I almost posted in that thread earlier about the lakland vids but got side tracked.

It really has helped seeing done like that. although I've got a set of feeler gauges etc ive never been too sure how to use them. I know you put them under the string but i always found there was a bit of leeway doing it this way and ive never been sure i was getting the right adjustment. Im sure its not been a problem as all my basses have been fine but seeing it done like this helped me get a bit more accurate.

It helps having a Lakland of course ;-)

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  • 3 months later...

[quote name='EssentialTension' post='696329' date='Dec 30 2009, 01:55 PM']Ordered an 18" metal rule from Staples at 14.30pm yesterday. It arrived at 9.30am today - in a box 21"x15"x8".[/quote]

Yeah, mine came in a huge box as well. In fact they sent me two and i only ordered one.

What im looking for is a small ruller that has measurements in 1/64's from the end. All the ones i have seen start with 1/32's. Not a big deal but i wish i didnt have to divide by two each time.

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[quote name='dave_bass5' post='696342' date='Dec 30 2009, 02:12 PM']Yeah, mine came in a huge box as well. In fact they sent me two and i only ordered one.

What im looking for is a small ruller that has measurements in 1/64's from the end. All the ones i have seen start with 1/32's. Not a big deal but i wish i didnt have to divide by two each time.[/quote]
Yes, mine has 1/64ths in the middle too.

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  • 3 weeks later...

I followed the video to do a setup on my Bob Glaub Skyline. I put a straight edge across the nut and 12th fret and used some feeler gauges to check at the 6th fret. There was a massive gap. So I adjust the truss rod a bit, getting closer! Got the gap to about 0.015 and had total fret buzz at the 1st and 2nd frets. So I raise the saddles a bit. Still buzzing. Raise them more to the point where it looks like it is going to run out of thread!!!! Still buzzing. Now I cannot see how to get the gap to 0.008, and have a low action, it does not seem possible. I have emailed Lakland but no reply yet as they are at NAMM.

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