aonindy Posted November 5, 2009 Share Posted November 5, 2009 [quote name='bassbloke' post='646425' date='Nov 5 2009, 04:56 PM']Only 1 item left... Anyone here reckon they can phone up and ask for a pleasure pump and keep a straight face?[/quote] LMAO!! .... I told the GF I wanted a pleasure pump for Christmas .... she muttered something about freaks and walked away.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Musicman20 Posted November 5, 2009 Share Posted November 5, 2009 [quote name='deksawyer' post='645911' date='Nov 5 2009, 01:29 AM']I have a genuine TecAmp cover for my M212 and it's pretty damn good. No idea what the Roqsolid covers are like but mine is really padded and has elastic tabs that get fixed around the rear feet on the cab. Front zip on both corners as well. Recommended. D.[/quote] Can you use the cab with the cover on? If you sneak the cables around it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Musicman20 Posted November 5, 2009 Share Posted November 5, 2009 [quote name='RussFM' post='646313' date='Nov 5 2009, 03:18 PM']Leading on from the above, can someone explain the 1- / 1+ stuff? I haven't had chance to play mine again yet, worked fine so I must have plugged it in right, but the only speakon connector I had before was with my GK rig, which had it's own speakon cable for the bi-amping so never looked into how they're wired.[/quote] Does it matter which you plug into?! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RussFM Posted November 6, 2009 Share Posted November 6, 2009 (edited) Finally got to take my Puma 350 and S212 to band practice last night - I had to turn it down! So much louder than my other rig. No hiss, although the fan does have a high-pitch whirring when it kicks in, not really a problem though. Very happy with it! [quote name='Musicman20' post='646679' date='Nov 5 2009, 08:45 PM']Does it matter which you plug into?![/quote] Don't know, only tried the left one, but the pic a few posts ago shows it plugged into the right, so I guess not? Edited November 6, 2009 by RussFM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LawrenceH Posted November 6, 2009 Share Posted November 6, 2009 [quote name='RussFM' post='646943' date='Nov 6 2009, 08:30 AM']Don't know, only tried the left one, but the pic a few posts ago shows it plugged into the right, so I guess not?[/quote] The sockets should, unless TecAmp are completely mental, be wired parallel so you can daisy-chain to another cab. So whichever one you use won't matter. The only exceptions to this that I can think of are when cabs have a HP or LP filter on one input, or when they are bi-ampable and then the inputs feed separate drivers. This doesn't apply here. The rather mysterious +1/-1 refers to the wiring scheme for the speakons, which can carry up to 4 different wires in the 4-pole versions. This is useful for PA where you can send sub and top signals separately down a single cable, but for smaller applications it's usually just a compatibility headache! Here only 2 of the 4 poles are in use, the +1/-1 pair. Hope that clears things up if anyone was still confused. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flanker Posted November 6, 2009 Share Posted November 6, 2009 Wasn't even looking at gear. Now look what's happened! Thank you GuitarGuitar and Bassmerchant! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dubs Posted November 6, 2009 Share Posted November 6, 2009 How much German is too much German? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LawrenceH Posted November 6, 2009 Share Posted November 6, 2009 (edited) I've realised the speaker is not cast alu but is actually pressed steel and is from the Standard Lite range, which has otherwise very similar specs to the Premium range. I've updated my original post accordingly including the link. Sorry about that. Some info from my explorations with the box measurements, the driver specs, and WinISD. Caveats are a) that I don't really know how this program works and what can/can't be taken as reliable from it and this is for the off-the-shelf driver not the actual variant used in the TecAmp cabs, so with this info you get what you pay for! First up the mid-range driver. It's a 4" unit, with some kind of quite thin plastic cone material. I can't see a maker's mark on it anywhere, just a stamp on the steel housing saying 25/06/29/0910039 and then possibl, t, or a smudge, or some Greek squiggle. It says 8ohms but that's all I've got! More usefully, I can see inside the cab that the speaker wires go straight from the 10" to the 4" with just a little block (estimate ~ 1x1.5x4cm) on one of the wires. I can't see clearly what this is but I'm guessing a simple cap as a HPF - can't tell the value. The mid driver is contained in a sealed box which is about 10x10x7 on the outside and made of thin (0.5mm?) ply. Again there is acoustic foam on the back face. I've now had a measure of the internal volume of the 110 combo. It's actually a shade smaller externally that the specs claim. I make it 40x33x18.6 internally, minus 700cc for the mid/hi driver box and a small amount more for the bracing. Taking this into account with a WinISD-calculated 1.35l driver volume I get an internal volume of just 22 or so litres. Extrapolating, the Puma 112 will probably have another ~8 litres depending on the port arrangement (haven't seen the back of one. Does anyone who owns one fancy measuring the slot size?) EDITED to remove calculations derived from WinISD since it's a slot port, and they're probably wrong. Will post back when I've measured the damn thing directly! Cheers Alex Edited November 7, 2009 by LawrenceH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alexclaber Posted November 6, 2009 Share Posted November 6, 2009 That tuning frequency calculation seems way too high to be accurate. Use the signal generator on WinISD Pro to get a sinewave, put your cab on its back, sprinkle some salt on the woofer, and then sweep down from 150Hz towards 30Hz. The salt will bounce more and more until the port starts to join in and at the tuning frequency the bounce will be minimal. Once you go below the tuning frequency the bouncing will rapidly escalate. You'll have to go back and forth to narrow down to an accurate measurement but you should be able to ascertain the port tuning to within less than 1Hz. Alex Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LawrenceH Posted November 6, 2009 Share Posted November 6, 2009 [quote name='alexclaber' post='647544' date='Nov 6 2009, 07:11 PM']That tuning frequency calculation seems way too high to be accurate. Use the signal generator on WinISD Pro to get a sinewave, put your cab on its back, sprinkle some salt on the woofer, and then sweep down from 150Hz towards 30Hz. The salt will bounce more and more until the port starts to join in and at the tuning frequency the bounce will be minimal. Once you go below the tuning frequency the bouncing will rapidly escalate. You'll have to go back and forth to narrow down to an accurate measurement but you should be able to ascertain the port tuning to within less than 1Hz. Alex[/quote] Thanks Alex, that's exactly the kind of real-world experience with these parameters I don't have, I wanted someone to chip on on the plausibility! Built some vocal PA cabs that we ported and tuned with an oscillator 10+ years ago but that's about it. When I have the combo again I'll try some measurements. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
51m0n Posted November 6, 2009 Share Posted November 6, 2009 [quote name='alexclaber' post='647544' date='Nov 6 2009, 07:11 PM']That tuning frequency calculation seems way too high to be accurate. Use the signal generator on WinISD Pro to get a sinewave, put your cab on its back, sprinkle some salt on the woofer, and then sweep down from 150Hz towards 30Hz. The salt will bounce more and more until the port starts to join in and at the tuning frequency the bounce will be minimal. Once you go below the tuning frequency the bouncing will rapidly escalate. You'll have to go back and forth to narrow down to an accurate measurement but you should be able to ascertain the port tuning to within less than 1Hz. Alex[/quote] Neat trick Alex! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MOSCOWBASS Posted November 6, 2009 Share Posted November 6, 2009 I got my UL2 410 today and while trying it at home I noticed that the input gain control on my Puma doesn't reduce the signal to zero when it is turned completely down. Has anyone else noticed this? It's not a problem, but I would like to know if it's just my amp or do they all do it. A/B ing the 8 ohm UL410 with my EA NL210 bridged ( at low home level!) shows a similar sound, the 410 having a bit more depth as you would expect from a bigger cab with twice the speakers....but not a huge difference. Gigging on Sunday, so better test then. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
~tl Posted November 6, 2009 Share Posted November 6, 2009 [quote name='MOSCOWBASS' post='647753' date='Nov 6 2009, 10:56 PM']I got my UL2 410 today and while trying it at home I noticed that the input gain control on my Puma doesn't reduce the signal to zero when it is turned completely down. Has anyone else noticed this? It's not a problem, but I would like to know if it's just my amp or do they all do it.[/quote] They all do that... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MOSCOWBASS Posted November 6, 2009 Share Posted November 6, 2009 [quote name='~tl' post='647774' date='Nov 6 2009, 11:24 PM']They all do that...[/quote] Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lew-Bass Posted November 7, 2009 Share Posted November 7, 2009 Can you play through your headphones with the Puma 500? It doesn't have a designated phones input, but can you use any of the other inputs? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wotnwhy Posted November 8, 2009 Share Posted November 8, 2009 anybody got to the bottom of the hiss issues yet? could put up with it at the start, but finding it harder to live with now.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lew-Bass Posted November 8, 2009 Share Posted November 8, 2009 [quote name='wotnwhy' post='648732' date='Nov 8 2009, 01:16 PM']anybody got to the bottom of the hiss issues yet? could put up with it at the start, but finding it harder to live with now..[/quote] I've started to get it mate, I turn the amp on and off and it's abit of a lucky dip as to whether it returns or not Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
warwickhunt Posted November 8, 2009 Share Posted November 8, 2009 [quote name='Lew-Bass' post='648765' date='Nov 8 2009, 01:52 PM']I've started to get it mate, I turn the amp on and off and it's abit of a lucky dip as to whether it returns or not[/quote] So it isn't just a consistent 'normal' hum... it can go away and then return! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wotnwhy Posted November 8, 2009 Share Posted November 8, 2009 [quote name='Lew-Bass' post='648765' date='Nov 8 2009, 01:52 PM']I've started to get it mate, I turn the amp on and off and it's abit of a lucky dip as to whether it returns or not[/quote] thats very strange.... mine is very consistent.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Musky Posted November 8, 2009 Share Posted November 8, 2009 [quote name='Lew-Bass' post='648765' date='Nov 8 2009, 01:52 PM']I've started to get it mate, I turn the amp on and off and it's abit of a lucky dip as to whether it returns or not[/quote] This reminds me a bit of the hum problems some people had with the switching power supply with DHA pedals. If I remember rightly they'd hum loudly if the power supply was switched on before being plugged into the pedal. Obviously there's nothing to plug in with the tecamp combos, but I wonder if it's some kind of related problem? I'm really not technically minded enough to know how switching supplies work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LawrenceH Posted November 8, 2009 Share Posted November 8, 2009 (edited) [quote name='wotnwhy' post='648797' date='Nov 8 2009, 02:28 PM']thats very strange.... mine is very consistent..[/quote] Hey So I wasn't able to explore the 110 combo any more because...it blew up! Well, actually what happened was second time I got it out and turned it on it would not output signal from either the main input or the line in, instead just outputting much more hiss than normal which was punctuated by bubbles and occasional 'cracks'. A telltale sign of a faulty cap. Sure enough, I had a quick peek inside and one of the larger capacitors had vented - one of a bank of four greenish ones on the side of the board showed the brown staining on the top. Damn. The good news is, I emailed Mark of guitarguitar and he was really helpful. He called me back on Saturday (!) offered me repair, refund or alternatively the option to exchange for a 112 combo which the original buyer had decided not keep, apparently working fine. Although he offered to arrange free pickup, since I'm in Edinburgh I popped into the branch there and grabbed the 112 (sorry to whoever had second option on it!) So now I have the 112 combo I'd like to say that Mark and the staff in Edinburgh (John, Andy) were extremely helpful and gave me great confidence in their customer support, so thanks guys! As far as I understood it, they have local amp techs that they'd probably send a faulty model to initially, which would likely be faster, but the warranty deal they picked up with these DOES include return to manufacturer if that turns out to be necessary. Comparing the 112 with the 110, one thing I notice is that the mids seem a bit smoother with this model. I suspect it might be something to do with the slightly extended HF response of the 10" compared to the 12", and this may result in more overlap with the mid driver. Certainly it reinforces my feeling that the 110 combo would benefit from a superior crossover network that included a low-pass filter, which shouldn't be too costly a mod. The 112 perhaps this is less of an issue. It's interesting that on talkbass they discuss manufacturer design changes with the cabs, changing the porting and replacing the tweeter/multiway selector with the hi/mid driver and a simple on/off switch. Which versions do people here have? I'm obviously a bit concerned about the 350 reliability now as I have no idea what caused the cap to pop - whether it's just unlucky, or comes from a bad batch, or if the amp is inherently poorly designed (though I suspect not since a quick google throws up nothing on the 350 heads). If either of the latter two one might expect more problems to crop up soon. One thing I notice right away with the new 112 is that the fan is mounted differently than the 110. Any techies out there care to throw some light over the relationship between faulty capacitors/design and hiss? I'm a bit more concerned if the hiss is intermittent - in mine so far it seems consistent, and actually with the 112 I thought it was less noticeable than the 110, I think perhaps the smoother mid output might be related. It's pretty directional at close range too and is far more evident from the hi/mid diver, so disconnecting your mid drivers might be a quick'n'dirty solution if you prefer a more old-school sound particularly with the 110. I'm not too bothered by it so far though. Crossing fingers that the 112 combo is stable, I think at this stage a single failure doesn't mean much - there's a few guys on talkbass that have been using the tecamp stuff for quite a while. We'll see. Edited November 8, 2009 by LawrenceH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lew-Bass Posted November 8, 2009 Share Posted November 8, 2009 [quote name='Musky' post='648845' date='Nov 8 2009, 03:27 PM']This reminds me a bit of the hum problems some people had with the switching power supply with DHA pedals. If I remember rightly they'd hum loudly if the power supply was switched on before being plugged into the pedal. Obviously there's nothing to plug in with the tecamp combos, but I wonder if it's some kind of related problem? I'm really not technically minded enough to know how switching supplies work. [/quote] I think it's something to do with this. This only happened since I put something into the effects input and outputs (headphones, I DID ask where to put them! ) and it started, i took them out of the effects input/output (cant remember which) and it stopped, but then another time 30 minutes or so later it re-appeared, I turned it on and off and it was fine... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Musicman20 Posted November 8, 2009 Share Posted November 8, 2009 This hiss seems to be affecting the combos.....hmmm. I wonder what it is. My cab, luckily, has quite a silent horn and doesn't give you that slight 'hiss' even when you crank it up. I was quite happy about that! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dubs Posted November 9, 2009 Share Posted November 9, 2009 Used my 4x10 last night for the first time and it was immense. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Finbar Posted November 9, 2009 Share Posted November 9, 2009 [quote name='Dubs' post='647506' date='Nov 6 2009, 06:29 PM']How much German is too much German? [/quote] Best looking rig ITT Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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