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Stagg!!!!


mikeh
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Feet adjusters are very tight. I dismantled the bridge this morning and realised that where the threaded spindles pass through the upper part of the bridge that very simply the bore hole through the bridge needs widening. Its not threaded and the idea is similar to all adjustable bridges ...the screw winder should lift the bridge and the spindles should pass straight through the floating/moving part of the bridge. Going cut myself a new bridge with the string spacings wider apart which should make the instrument much more playable with the bow.

Don't seem to have issues with buzzing of end pin or the after string or electrics humming so all looking good as a starting point.

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Just be careful with the strings, my 3/4 spiros did not fit without some serious bodging!

[url="http://basschat.co.uk/topic/196792-spiros-too-short-l130-wasted/page__st__20__p__1939538__hl__strings__fromsearch__1#entry1939538"]http://basschat.co.uk/topic/196792-spiros-too-short-l130-wasted/page__st__20__p__1939538__hl__strings__fromsearch__1#entry1939538[/url]

Edited by stingrayPete1977
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I made a new 'tailpiece' yesterday and converted the instrument into a regular 3/4 length . Its a bit peculiar and I don't fully understand why, but the Stagg has the normal nut to bridge length of a 3/4 double bass at 106 cm ...but then the after string length is 4 inches longer than you would get on a 3/4 . It doesn't surprise me that there are from time to time people who post that the after string is buzzing and ringing on. It may be that the designers at Stagg want to try and get the growl of a 4/4 but that's the only strings that will fit the standard Stagg. That said replacement Stagg strings are only about £40 a set ( very cheap in comparison to DB strings !) . Anyways I made up a replacement tailpiece and fitted some standard length strings and the sound seems to me to be even better than before. Will get a photo on later. I am thinking of making my modified tailpiece slightly shorter - I wanted to experiment with getting high string pressure through the pick up and so made it about and inch too long - but it seems to have done the trick just fine !

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You can see that the black end fitting that comes with the Stagg . I have drawn a white line where the ball end of the string starts - it produces a 12 inch long after string length!! Normally on a DB the after string is about 7 inches. The 'tailpeice' that I made up is 6 inches because I wanted to keep the pressure on the peizo high by a steep angle . This puts pressure on the screw fittings of the block which seems to be absolutely fine but I will experiment with a shorter tailpiece too. Sound wise I cant see any advantage in the original Stagg spec and getting a tailpiece opens the choices of strings available immensely. Next thing is to make an alternative bridge with wide spacings and see how that improves the bowing ! Edited by ubassman
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Interestingly the piezo wires were curved along the back inside edge of the bridge foot pocket when I removed the bridge i.e. lining the curve of the pocket in the direction of the end pin . The previous mod that I saw posted on here shows a photo of the wires straightened out bisecting the pocket in half symmetrical under the line of the bridge and with a notch cut out on the bass of the feet + padding/damper Just wondering about the behaviour of the vibrations that come through the bridge and whether it was done deliberately curved by Stagg to expose more wire to collect the vibrations or whether its just a bish bash bosh kind of thing from the factory or that it doesn't matter ...any experts here on piezo technology ? Easy enough to do some experiments but would be good to get some views from those in the know.

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Theres no sense of leverage with the mod ...may be however that the bridge may not stay vertical because of the uneven angles of the strings either side so I going to try making a tailpiece mod that is in line with a normal tailpiece - can't see it not working now that I know that the sound is fine with a shortened string length but then there are other thoughts about a sticky out piece of wood that is easily banged ( I sense a bit of piano wire coming to the rescue ...watch this space )!

Edited by ubassman
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Carved myself a new bridge - and set out the notches at 25mm between strings . Feels a lot more like a DB that I am used to but more importantly has opened up the instrument to bowing . The margins are a bit too tight to bow cleanly with the 21mm separation that comes on the Stagg factory bridge and those extra few mm make all the difference. I made the arch slightly higher too and its great .

What was a bit unexpected and impressed me most was that the sound improved immensely with the new bridge - it sounds warm before it has a little bit of a nasal sound.

This is fun !! :)
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Have you had a go a the nut yet? I’ve an ebony one fitted, taken down to the height of a credit card, a big improvement, and bought a battery charger and a pair of rechargeable PP3’s. Don’t trust the blue light for battery condition, they can suddenly run down on a long gig.

Bob.

Edited by bobmartin
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Not tackled the nut yet Bob !! (...actually seems to be fine on mine )!

Working on the string set up at the moment and just putting the finishing touches to a new idea to raise the end block. The black curved end block that comes with the Stagg produces an asymmetric string angle at the bridge - it just means that there is an unwelcome tendency to pull the bridge backwards ...dont know if anyone has had a problem with that?

So the current plan is to lift the strings higher at the end block and even out the angle of the string either side of the bridge so that the bridge is forced is directly down on the piezo wires. Hopefully will improve the sound and mean that the bridge stays put!

Thanks for the tip about the PP3s ...sounds like an excellent idea.

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[quote name='ubassman' timestamp='1376136065' post='2170063']

Working on the string set up at the moment and just putting the finishing touches to a new idea to raise the end block. The black curved end block that comes with the Stagg produces an asymmetric string angle at the bridge - it just means that there is an unwelcome tendency to pull the bridge backwards ...dont know if anyone has had a problem with that?

So the current plan is to lift the strings higher at the end block and even out the angle of the string either side of the bridge so that the bridge is forced is directly down on the piezo wires. Hopefully will improve the sound and mean that the bridge stays put!

[/quote]

Hmm..

This might be the reason why the under string length is so long, to keep the angle of the strings over the bridge low?

Bob.

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Yes , could be - hadn't really thought of it like that . That said the strings come out of the black end block really close to the body - if the height were raised by an inch or so then the angle would be the same either side of the bridge .

I think that maybe the reason for the long string length is perhaps that it avoids having to make an extra component in the tailpiece so helps keep the cost affordable? Who knows !

...in any event I am enjoying experimenting and enjoying the instrument which is all that matters !

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[quote name='stingrayPete1977' timestamp='1376150364' post='2170285']
Just packing mine up for tonights gig, the audience love it almost as much as me :D
[/quote]

Love the bass as much as you love it, or love the bass as much as they love you? :D

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[quote name='bobmartin' timestamp='1376150843' post='2170292']
This was on Talkbass..

[url="http://www.talkbass.com/forum/f101/stagg-eub-megathread-344951/index29.html#post14553429"]http://www.talkbass....ml#post14553429[/url]
[/quote]

Looks like an interesting link thanks for that Bob :D

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