lemmywinks Posted November 20, 2009 Share Posted November 20, 2009 I've been doing some upgrades to my fretless jazz before the body goes in to get a piezo fitted. Been fine with all of it and it's gone trouble free, until i got to the behemoth of a job that is fitting a new neckplate I drilled what i thought were adequate pilot holes to accomodate the new, wider screws. However on tightening up one of them snapped in the neck pocket, worse still none of the screw is protruding so i can't get any leverage on it The screws in question were quite soft (they came with the neckplate) and i considered scrapping them because of this, but just carried on regardless as i wanted to get the bass assembled today. Looks like i'm paying for my impatience! Is there any way to remove this without resorting to drilling it out or removing a chunk out of the heel? Ta! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waynepunkdude Posted November 20, 2009 Share Posted November 20, 2009 [quote name='lemmywinks' post='660098' date='Nov 20 2009, 01:16 PM']I've been doing some upgrades to my fretless jazz before the body goes in to get a piezo fitted. Been fine with all of it and it's gone trouble free, until i got to the behemoth of a job that is fitting a new neckplate I drilled what i thought were adequate pilot holes to accomodate the new, wider screws. However on tightening up one of them snapped in the neck pocket, worse still none of the screw is protruding so i can't get any leverage on it The screws in question were quite soft (they came with the neckplate) and i considered scrapping them because of this, but just carried on regardless as i wanted to get the bass assembled today. Looks like i'm paying for my impatience! Is there any way to remove this without resorting to drilling it out or removing a chunk out of the heel? Ta![/quote] Screw reversal kit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maxrossell Posted November 20, 2009 Share Posted November 20, 2009 [quote name='waynepunkdude' post='660116' date='Nov 20 2009, 01:31 PM']Screw reversal kit.[/quote] This. Although if the screw is soft it may not work all that well. You might have to drill it out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hot Tub Posted November 20, 2009 Share Posted November 20, 2009 Stud extractor. You'll have to drill a very small and precise hole in the bit of the screw that's buried in the wood. The stud extractor will screw into that using a reversed self-tapping thread. As it tightens in the broken screw, it should start to turn and the screw will come away from the wood leaving no damage. In theory. From experience (albeit with engines) the key to the whole thing is getting the hole in the screw drilled properly and deep enough. Good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waynepunkdude Posted November 20, 2009 Share Posted November 20, 2009 [quote name='Hot Tub' post='660124' date='Nov 20 2009, 01:37 PM']Stud extractor. You'll have to drill a very small and precise hole in the bit of the screw that's buried in the wood. The stud extractor will screw into that using a reversed self-tapping thread. As it tightens in the broken screw, it should start to turn and the screw will come away from the wood leaving no damage. In theory. From experience (albeit with engines) the key to the whole thing is getting the hole in the screw drilled properly and deep enough. Good luck![/quote] I have some of those at home if you want me to send? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lemmywinks Posted November 20, 2009 Author Share Posted November 20, 2009 Cheers for the offer Wayne, i think the screw may be a little soft though. I've ordered a stud extractor kit anyway as it's something i could do with, i've a feeling i'll need it on one of my projects at the near future! Thanks for the help guys! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lemmywinks Posted November 20, 2009 Author Share Posted November 20, 2009 Btw the seller, nottinghammusicshop, has very kindly sent me a replacement screw, so a big thanks to them Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wesfinn Posted November 20, 2009 Share Posted November 20, 2009 if the screw is snapped flush to the surface you can try heating the remaining screw with a soldering iron. occasionally the screw will expand enough just enough to slightly force itself back out of the hole, allowing you to use some pliers to remove it. This doesnt always work but is worth giving it a go as it means not having to take a drill to the neck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lemmywinks Posted November 20, 2009 Author Share Posted November 20, 2009 I think the screw might be a bit soft for pliers, really i should have used better screws but there's no suitable ones in the shops near me. Has to be in black as i've kitted the fretless out in all black hardware, the neckplate was the last bit too! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
henry norton Posted November 20, 2009 Share Posted November 20, 2009 Is the screw protruding out the other side at all? Alternatively, if it's only gone into the neck by a few millimetres you could remove the other screws, force the the neck off and screw it back through with a pair of pliers. Even if it's stuck, if it's as soft as you say it shouldn't be too big a deal to drill it out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Count Bassy Posted November 20, 2009 Share Posted November 20, 2009 Stud extractors can be great, but they can also snap off themseves, leaving you an even bigger problem. By its nature the diameter of the extractor is less than the screw/stud you're extracting, so if the insertion force sheared the original screw there is a chance that the extraction force will shear the extractor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrcrow Posted November 24, 2009 Share Posted November 24, 2009 my engineering days say stud extractor...but...you need some meat left over when you drill the hole for the extractor to bite if you are drilling a hole anyway....small pilot hole first then successive larger drills...slowly and with sharp point open out the guts of the screw till the edges can be collapsed and screwed out...not the better way ..but another way good job its not a tap Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete.young Posted November 29, 2009 Share Posted November 29, 2009 My 30 years of engineering experience say don't ever use a stud extractor - the chances of them breaking is extremely high and when they do you are 100 times worse off than you were when you started. The only sure way I've come across to get a broken extractor out is a spark erosion machine. In this situation, the best way forward is a decent pillar drill or milling machine to drill out the old screw, starting with an accurate centre-punch into the middle of the screw and small new drill bits, increasing in size with each cut. BTW, the holes in the neck pocket should be clearance holes, not pilot holes. The screws need to screw into the neck, not into the body as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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