EBS_freak Posted December 12, 2009 Share Posted December 12, 2009 (edited) Having read through some posts on the forum and across the wider Internet, I have seen people having issues with Schaller straps. I've thrown this little guide together to help clear up some of the problems that people may be having. First up are are the buttons. The problems here is that people replace the stock buttons and screws with the Schaller button which come with a smaller screw than usually found with the original button. The original screw can generally not be used because the screw head will typically not go through the Schaller button. If you just replace the orignal button and screw with Schaller button and Schaller screw, over time, the screw will work loose as it is shorter than the original screw. Method 1 To get around this, you can use the old cocktail stick (hardwood is better than matchsticks!) and wood glue trick - just snap down a cocktail stick, apply a little wood glue (or super glue if you must) and place it in the hole in the guitar. Once dry, screw the Schaller button into place (drill a guide if necessary). This will hold nicely but is likely to work loose again over a period of time. Just get into the habit of checking the buttons are firmly held in position before and after playing to check all is good. Method 2 If you want an even better fix, drill the holes in the guitar out to enable the insertion of a length of hardwood wooden dowel. Glue it in place and let to dry. Then drill a guide hole into the dowel and screw the Schaller strap lock onto that. This will hold better and if done properly, you will never have any troubles. Make sure you are careful with the lacquer of your guitar if you are doing this! Method 3 (a bit pikey) Get the original screw and sand the head down to size using a sanding attachment on a drill. It'll work... but I've yet to see a great job... you can always tell, but if that doesn't bother you, grind away! Second - The important bit about the straplock on the strap!! Again, people complain about the nuts coming loose on the strap. This is because, as you may have noticed, the hole that comes in a strap is too small to get the shaft of the straplock through. [attachment=38154:hole_too_small.jpg] As you can see in the picture, getting that straplock through that hole means that you are going to have to maul it through the leather. What this does however, is prevent the leather from lying flat under the straplock and in turn, what happens is that although clamped down, the leather exerts a force against the straplock as it tries to return to it's original position. This is made worse when the strap is under movement and eventually, the nut will work loose. Not ideal as you can imagine. So.... Get one of these... [attachment=38155:leather_tool.jpg] This is a leather hole punch... and can be used, as its name suggests, to punch a hole in leather (it also works for vinyl, pleather etc). This is perfect for widening that standard hole in your strap to enable the shaft of the straplock to pass through with a snug fit. (Better than hacking it with a Stanley knife eh?!) In order to get the right size punch, you'll need to measure the shaft of the straplock. I can actually tell you that you will need a 10mm punch for the Schaller straplock. You can confirm the fit as follows - [attachment=38156:sizing_the_hole.jpg] Perfect! Next, make sure your strap is laid perfectly flat on top of a strong surface that you don't mind getting damaged by the punch. I have found using an old A4 sized thick cardboard bound notepad works superbly well as it is strong enough to take the impact of the punch but prevent the punch from jumping or the strap from sliding. I place this on a solid concrete floor. OK, next up we need to figure out where to centre the punch. [attachment=38163:tool_positioning.jpg] With a bit of practice, you'll be able to place it exactly in the right position every time... but if this is your first shot, take your time. If you aren't sure, it may be worth applying a bit of pressure on the punch so it actually embosses the surface a little so you can see where the punch will punch. If you mark the strap and your punch is not in the right position, don't worry, your embossing is likely to be covered by the large washer that forms part of the straplock. Always punch from the front of the strap to the back of the strap so you get the sharper edge on top. Holding the punch in position... pick up one of these. [attachment=38158:rubber_hammer.jpg] That's right. A rubber hammer. I would always use a rubber hammer as I have found that you can get a more accurate hit on the top of the punch without the punch jumping out of position. Using the hammer, hit down on the top of the punch with some force. Depending upon the thickness of your strap, you may go straight through first time, otherwise it may take you a good few hits. I would suggest you make sure the punch hasn't moved inbetween each hit as you could end up butchering the end of your strap. With a little experience, you'll get a feel for how hard you have to hit to get through first time! Again, I would suggest taking your time with many little hits rather than wiping your strap out in one foul swoop! [attachment=38159:the_hole_is_cut.jpg] Ta-da! The hole is cut. Nice pro looking job eh? OK, next up is to show how good the fit for the straplock is... [attachment=38160:after_cuting.jpg] ...and there it is. You'll see that it is a very snug fit.. and more importantly, the leather around the straplock lies flat. The slit to the hole remains together also - which looks nicer than the holes I have seen around people's straplocks due to the stretching of this slit. Next task is to assemble the straplock on the strap. Simple, just place the washer over the thread and screw down the nut. Make sure the "horseshoe" attachment is in place (such that when on the button, it suppots the weight of the guitar on the bottom of the "cup" and not just the pin!) and using a spanner, tighten the nut TIGHT! I find that holding the horseshoe in place with a small screwdriver whilst tightening the nut helps. Be careful not to scratch the washer with your spanner (I put a piece of paper under the spanner head whilst tightening the nut) - this is especially a nightmare if you are using black straplocks. [attachment=38161:finished.jpg] ...and there you go. Those shouldn't come undone! If you are still paranoid, you can apply a little threadlock or a tiny amount of superglue in the thread whilst tightening the nut (I've never found that necessary when the strap has been cut properly) If you compare the above to the following image - [attachment=38162:not_modified.jpg] you can see that in the immediately above, the surrounding leather is not lying flat and is fighting against the nut on the straplock and the slit is splaying. Not good. So... do the above and you are all set. The best thing is, that the tools for this job can be found for under a fiver. I've done all my own straps and my friends straps and all problems have been solved! For those guys trying this on older straps where the hole is stretched already, I found that pushing the strap back into shape and placing gaffa tape on the leather around the strap button hole is sufficient to hold it in shape while a proper hole is cut. I'm not going to lie to you though, doing this to a "fresh" strap is always easier than a used one. Hope that this can help somebody out! I've never had any problems at least! Edited December 13, 2009 by EBS_freak Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris_b Posted December 12, 2009 Share Posted December 12, 2009 Good instructions, but sorry, I'm not going to go through all this hassle to reengineer something that Schaller should have bothered to design and manufacture properly in the first place. -5 out of 10 for Schaller! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EBS_freak Posted December 12, 2009 Author Share Posted December 12, 2009 [quote name='chris_b' post='681863' date='Dec 12 2009, 12:31 AM']Good instructions, but sorry, I'm not going to go through all this hassle to reengineer something that Schaller should have bothered to design and manufacture properly in the first place. -5 out of 10 for Schaller![/quote] Ha ha! Each to their own. I know what you are saying though, it seems a pain to do all the above to get the solution spot on! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wateroftyne Posted December 12, 2009 Share Posted December 12, 2009 Very useful... thank you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john_the_bass Posted December 12, 2009 Share Posted December 12, 2009 Useful guide. I've used a sharpening steel to make the holes in straps a bit wider - it stretches the hole for long enough to push the straplock through. Probably not ideal, but worked for me and they haven't come undone yet! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lozbass Posted December 12, 2009 Share Posted December 12, 2009 Thank you! Absolutely brilliant. I wish Basschat had much more of this (but I suspect that few of us have real expertise and an ability to provide such concise, clear and lucid explanations) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EBS_freak Posted December 12, 2009 Author Share Posted December 12, 2009 (edited) [quote name='wateroftyne' post='681868' date='Dec 12 2009, 12:37 AM']Very useful... thank you.[/quote] [quote name='lozbass' post='681993' date='Dec 12 2009, 10:07 AM']Thank you! Absolutely brilliant. I wish Basschat had much more of this (but I suspect that few of us have real expertise and an ability to provide such concise, clear and lucid explanations)[/quote] No problem - it's the little easy tasks that can make the world of difference... but if you don't know about them...! Edited December 12, 2009 by EBS_freak Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deep Thought Posted December 12, 2009 Share Posted December 12, 2009 Why on Earth don't Schaller supply the perishing things with fatter screws? I just drilled out the Schaller buttons a bit and used the original screws on my Mex-hasn't come undone yet! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrcrow Posted December 12, 2009 Share Posted December 12, 2009 [quote name='Deep Thought' post='682040' date='Dec 12 2009, 11:22 AM']Why on Earth don't Schaller supply the perishing things with fatter screws? I just drilled out the Schaller buttons a bit and used the original screws on my Mex-hasn't come undone yet![/quote] chacun a son gout...methinks i used a bit off a rawlplug...on the ric and similarly on others always keep a clear eye open for the day you may have to take them off and replace with the original strap buttons Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigRedX Posted December 13, 2009 Share Posted December 13, 2009 Well done! TBH I thought it was all common sense, but we see so many threads complaining about Schaller Strap Locks that it obviously isn't. You should also mention that the cup part of the strap lock should be positioned so that it's supporting the instrument when the strap is in place and not just relying on locking pin to do the work. Again sounds obvious, but I've seen a couple of straps (on guitars) where the whole weight of the instrument was being taken by the pin - which is only supposed to lock the strap in place - and not by the cup, because it was on the wrong way round. Strangely enough I think most of the time when I've fitted Schaller Strap Locks the supplier screw has always been larger than the one that was holding the original strap button on. Finally I can't imagine any reason to want to refit the original buttons. They're rubbish. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EBS_freak Posted December 13, 2009 Author Share Posted December 13, 2009 (edited) [quote name='BigRedX' post='682885' date='Dec 13 2009, 11:38 AM']You should also mention that the cup part of the strap lock should be positioned so that it's supporting the instrument when the strap is in place and not just relying on locking pin to do the work. Again sounds obvious, but I've seen a couple of straps (on guitars) where the whole weight of the instrument was being taken by the pin - which is only supposed to lock the strap in place - and not by the cup, because it was on the wrong way round.[/quote] Yeah, I thought that was obvious too but now you mention it, I've seen a few people guilty of that too. I'll make a note in the original post. I though I would post it also because you read stuff on the net offering advice and you are never sure whether what they are saying is BS or not. With the pics, it's proof that is can be done and looks great when executed properly! Edited December 13, 2009 by EBS_freak Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BassBus Posted December 13, 2009 Share Posted December 13, 2009 Could I just add one comment regarding "drilling out holes". A friend of mine who builds furniture made an interesting point about drilling out holes. When you drill the hole out you take all that wood away. Using a bradawl leaves the wood there but provides a guide hole for the screw and the wood will settle in round it. Otherwise great, clear instructions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EBS_freak Posted December 13, 2009 Author Share Posted December 13, 2009 [quote name='BassBus' post='683142' date='Dec 13 2009, 05:16 PM']Could I just add one comment regarding "drilling out holes". A friend of mine who builds furniture made an interesting point about drilling out holes. When you drill the hole out you take all that wood away. Using a bradawl leaves the wood there but provides a guide hole for the screw and the wood will settle in round it. Otherwise great, clear instructions. [/quote] For clarification, The drilling out the holes for the dowels is necessary. You want a smooth cylinder hole to put a solid cylinder (the dowel) into. The guide holes should be smaller than the screws as you want the screw to make their own thread in the wood. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. Foxen Posted December 23, 2009 Share Posted December 23, 2009 [quote name='EBS_freak' post='681840' date='Dec 12 2009, 12:08 AM'][attachment=38155:leather_tool.jpg] This is a leather hole punch... and can be used, as its name suggests, to punch a hole in leather (it also works for vinyl, pleather etc). This is perfect for widening that standard hole in your strap to enable the shaft of the straplock to pass through with a snug fit. (Better than hacking it with a Stanley knife eh?!)[/quote] I just scored a set of these up to 10mm for this purpose, once I'm done, I'll cheerfully post it off for cost to someone else who wants to do this, as long as it keeps travelling round basschat and eventually gets back to me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EBS_freak Posted December 23, 2009 Author Share Posted December 23, 2009 [quote name='Mr. Foxen' post='692318' date='Dec 23 2009, 01:30 PM']I just scored a set of these up to 10mm for this purpose, once I'm done, I'll cheerfully post it off for cost to someone else who wants to do this, as long as it keeps travelling round basschat and eventually gets back to me.[/quote] Post some pics up once you are done! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. Foxen Posted December 23, 2009 Share Posted December 23, 2009 Nothing much interesting to picture. Everything looked as above. Problem was, one of the cheapy strap locks I was using had a duff thread, so wouldn't do up on the strap, gotta send it back for a new one. The other set I put on ex-drummer's guitar worked fine though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave_bass5 Posted December 27, 2009 Share Posted December 27, 2009 Cant say ive ever had any problem with strap locks in over 20 years but i realise some people do. I have in the past put some nail polish on the nuts to lock them in place. Seems to work ok. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EBS_freak Posted March 28, 2012 Author Share Posted March 28, 2012 I'd pretty much forgotten about this! Glad that people are still finding it useful. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arthurhenry Posted March 31, 2012 Share Posted March 31, 2012 A good guide, but I'm all for keeping the locks seperate and putting them on[i] after [/i]the strap is on the bass. Otherwise you have metal rubbing against metal and I've had buttons shear off from this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigRedX Posted March 31, 2012 Share Posted March 31, 2012 [quote name='arthurhenry' timestamp='1333195687' post='1598570'] A good guide, but I'm all for keeping the locks seperate and putting them on[i] after [/i]the strap is on the bass. Otherwise you have metal rubbing against metal and I've had buttons shear off from this. [/quote] I don't understand? I assume this is some alternative type of strap lock? I've been using the Schaller ones for almost 30 years and never once had any problem with the buttons shearing off. In fact I've just had a look at the oldest bass I've got that's still in regular use (Schaller Strap locks fitted almost 20 years ago) and the buttons are barely marked let alone worn. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave_bass5 Posted March 31, 2012 Share Posted March 31, 2012 Some people like to do things differently I guess. I've also been using them on and off over the past 30 years and never had any problems other than the nuts coming loose once or twice, and a bit of nail polish has sorted that out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arthurhenry Posted April 1, 2012 Share Posted April 1, 2012 [quote name='hiram.k.hackenbacker' timestamp='1333220249' post='1598963'] I'm not sure what you mean? [/quote] Normal Schaller strap locks. Strap on bass, then strap locks clipped onto strap buttons. They're entirely seperate to the strap, but still prevent it coming off. I've had buttons shear off, or show signs of wear when they're fitted in the normal way, but this is with hours of playing every day. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kjb Posted April 1, 2012 Share Posted April 1, 2012 Just do what I do. I just use the existing screw that comes with the strap buttons fitted to the bass, and a largish washer and semi permanently fix my strap to the bass. Saves loads on strap locks that have inherent design faults, and makes for a much more secure fixing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clarky72 Posted April 5, 2012 Share Posted April 5, 2012 I'm with you on enlarging the hole in your strap, but for the screw-bass part, the easiest and best way I've found is using the original bass screw and the Schaller StrapLock together. Drill the StrapLock button out very slightly to take your original screw then simply screw back in. No adjustment or mods needed to the bass at all and the connection will be as tough as nails, after all it's using the original screw. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deep Thought Posted April 5, 2012 Share Posted April 5, 2012 [quote name='Clarky72' timestamp='1333617181' post='1604194'] I'm with you on enlarging the hole in your strap, but for the screw-bass part, the easiest and best way I've found is using the original bass screw and the Schaller StrapLock together. Drill the StrapLock button out very slightly to take your original screw then simply screw back in. No adjustment or mods needed to the bass at all and the connection will be as tough as nails, after all it's using the original screw. [/quote] Likewise-I found this by far the best way-far easier than all the woodwork-but I've given up on straplocks altogether now, and gone back to Grolsch bottle washers. I still don't understand why Schaller insist on using those silly little screws to go into a hole which is almost invariably bigger than they are designed to go in (story of my life ). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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