BigBeatNut Posted January 30, 2010 Share Posted January 30, 2010 I need an electrics repair done on a bass. The tone control sometimes goes open circuit ... that is, the bass is still working but the tone control is effectively at max. A bit of tapping around the tone control normally brings it back to working order. I've tried to find the loose connection myself, unsuccessfully, so I need someone to take a look at it and maybe replace the pot, if that's what the problem is. Bass Gallery is an obvious option (as is digging through the luthiers 'sticky thread'), but since this is purely an electrics problem, I wondered if there are any other possibilities ? Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bloodaxe Posted January 30, 2010 Share Posted January 30, 2010 [quote name='BigBeatNut' post='729718' date='Jan 30 2010, 02:46 PM']I need an electrics repair done on a bass. The tone control sometimes goes open circuit ... that is, the bass is still working but the tone control is effectively at max. A bit of tapping around the tone control normally brings it back to working order. I've tried to find the loose connection myself, unsuccessfully, so I need someone to take a look at it and maybe replace the pot, if that's what the problem is. Bass Gallery is an obvious option (as is digging through the luthiers 'sticky thread'), but since this is purely an electrics problem, I wondered if there are any other possibilities ? Andy[/quote] Sounds like a duff pot - does it make any crackly/whooshy noises if you sweep it back & forth? A quick blast of switch cleaner might cure it, otherwise it's out with the soldering iron. I'm assuming it's a Passive circuit. Pete. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigBeatNut Posted January 30, 2010 Author Share Posted January 30, 2010 [quote name='Bloodaxe' post='729754' date='Jan 30 2010, 03:16 PM']Sounds like a duff pot - does it make any crackly/whooshy noises if you sweep it back & forth? A quick blast of switch cleaner might cure it, otherwise it's out with the soldering iron. I'm assuming it's a Passive circuit.[/quote] Not the slightest hint of a pot crackle. Does that make a pot problem less likely (sounds like it) ? It is passive, yes, a VVT setup in a Squire. Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bloodaxe Posted January 30, 2010 Share Posted January 30, 2010 [quote name='BigBeatNut' post='729830' date='Jan 30 2010, 04:20 PM']Not the slightest hint of a pot crackle. Does that make a pot problem less likely (sounds like it) ? It is passive, yes, a VVT setup in a Squire. Andy[/quote] No, but it pretty much eliminates a dirty or worn track as the culprit. My money is now firmly on the bit where the ground/earth end of the track is in contact with the solder tag - these are usually just a dry "pressure" contact & can fail. That said, it [i]could[/i] be a dry solder joint from the tag to the back of the pot. If you have a soldering iron, try resoldering each end of this connection. If the problem persists, it's almost certainly new pot time. Pete. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigBeatNut Posted January 30, 2010 Author Share Posted January 30, 2010 Okay, I might give that a shot myself. Hope my wimpy (half a milliwatt ? I can't remember, it's meant for PCBs) and ancient soldering iron is up to the job. Thanks for the advice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris_b Posted January 30, 2010 Share Posted January 30, 2010 There's also Charlie Chandler over here in Hampton Wick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silent Fly Posted February 3, 2010 Share Posted February 3, 2010 I also do repairs. I'm based in London SW18. Please send me an email if you are interested (the email in the web site in the signature). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigBeatNut Posted March 21, 2010 Author Share Posted March 21, 2010 Well I [i]think[/i] that's done .... the center tag on the pot seemed loose ... and I re-soldered both tags anyway. Don't think I did a quality job, though, due to the feeble soldering iron I have. Any recommendations on soldering irons ... particular the wattage suitable for this kind of repair ? Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bloodaxe Posted March 22, 2010 Share Posted March 22, 2010 [quote name='BigBeatNut' post='781961' date='Mar 21 2010, 07:16 PM']Any recommendations on soldering irons ... particular the wattage suitable for this kind of repair ? Andy[/quote] About 30W should cover most eventualities. Better still, keep an eye out for deals at Maplin or even Aldi - sooner or later one of 'em will do a temperature-controlled solder station for stupidly low money. These give you the ability to tweak the power about so that you're delivering just the right amount for the job in hand. From personal experience, stay away from the gas-powered ones or the "miracle" battery-powered stuff like "Cold Fusion". Too prone to damage &/or too bloody awkward to use IME. Pete. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigBeatNut Posted March 24, 2010 Author Share Posted March 24, 2010 Thanks ... I had no idea such a thing as a 'temperature-controlled solder station' existed Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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