bloke_zero Posted March 20 Share Posted March 20 3 hours ago, disssa said: zerofive audio LowRider clone I did wonder with the EQP sticker if it was Pultec related and the lowrider is Quote stompbox version of a legendary studio EQ, the Pultec EQP-1A, Nice. Does it do the trick? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigwan Posted March 20 Share Posted March 20 On 15/03/2024 at 19:11, disssa said: From big to small: I was thinking of building one of these pultec pedals to go in front of a Noble preamp build... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
disssa Posted March 23 Share Posted March 23 Peavey Standard 260 Series Preamp: 2-Channel Preamp: Channel 1 "Effects" and Channel 2 "Normal". A rotary switch can be used to choose channel 1 or 2, or channel 1 and 2 parallel or in series 8 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lord Sausage Posted March 25 Share Posted March 25 Don't know if anyone has the the Fuzzdog Logical thread that I did recently. Someone is building it me. Anyway, in it I said I'm gonna do the bazz fuzz as my first build. I'm going to order it today. Does anyone have any experience of spray painting the enclosure? Is it just the same as spraying a guitar but using auto paint instead? It's more the prep I need to know. Do you sand enclosure to 320 grit? Do you sand between coats? Do you polish the clear coat at the end? Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobbass4k Posted March 25 Share Posted March 25 People do it lots of different ways, my general method - Drill first Sand with 400 grit Coat of primer, dry Coat of paint, dry 2nd coat, dry Apply label graphics Coat of clear coat, dry 2nd coat of clear coat, dry Sometimes 3rd coat of clear coat The clear coat I use is good but it takes a.while to dry properly, in summer I stick them outside under a pyrex bowl to get the benefit of UV - I've toyed with getting a UV lamp. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lord Sausage Posted March 25 Share Posted March 25 4 minutes ago, bobbass4k said: People do it lots of different ways, my general method - Drill first Sand with 400 grit Coat of primer, dry Coat of paint, dry 2nd coat, dry Apply label graphics Coat of clear coat, dry 2nd coat of clear coat, dry Sometimes 3rd coat of clear coat The clear coat I use is good but it takes a.while to dry properly, in summer I stick them outside under a pyrex bowl to get the benefit of UV - I've toyed with getting a UV lamp. Cheers, So no sanding between coats and you don't have to polish the clearcoat. Thanks a lot Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
disssa Posted March 26 Share Posted March 26 Dunwich Volt Thrower clone 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lord Sausage Posted March 26 Share Posted March 26 The bazz fuzz kit has arrived. I have no idea what I'm doing. I'll put pics up on here when I have finally done it. In about 2036! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
disssa Posted March 28 Share Posted March 28 Original and Preamp-Clone: 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lidl e Posted April 16 Share Posted April 16 I took the plunge with my first kit. Let's see if i can figure this out. It's a HPF/LPF clone kit from das musikding 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bassybert Posted April 16 Share Posted April 16 1 hour ago, lidl e said: I took the plunge with my first kit. Let's see if i can figure this out. It's a HPF/LPF clone kit from das musikding Ooooh nice, I’ll be watching with interest as I was looking at the vong filterung a few weeks ago. Is that the same kit or a different one? 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LukeFRC Posted April 16 Share Posted April 16 12 minutes ago, Bassybert said: Ooooh nice, I’ll be watching with interest as I was looking at the vong filterung a few weeks ago. Is that the same kit or a different one? that's the PedalPCB version of a Broughton High Pass/Low pass 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tauzero Posted April 16 Share Posted April 16 2 hours ago, lidl e said: I took the plunge with my first kit. Let's see if i can figure this out. It's a HPF/LPF clone kit from das musikding I made one of those recently. All came together quite easily, although I had some sort of brain fade when doing the drilling and put the hole for the LED on a direct line between the two upper pots, so had to stick a screw in that hole and drill a higher one. Must get round to putting some labels on it. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lidl e Posted April 16 Share Posted April 16 1 hour ago, Bassybert said: Ooooh nice, I’ll be watching with interest as I was looking at the vong filterung a few weeks ago. Is that the same kit or a different one? See below. Hopefully there will be something to follow along. I'll either really get into it or it will be sitting in it's box for months waiting! 1 hour ago, LukeFRC said: that's the PedalPCB version of a Broughton High Pass/Low pass Recommended to me by your fine self! 20 minutes ago, tauzero said: I made one of those recently. All came together quite easily, although I had some sort of brain fade when doing the drilling and put the hole for the LED on a direct line between the two upper pots, so had to stick a screw in that hole and drill a higher one. Must get round to putting some labels on it. I ordered a predrilled enclosure! Made it easy on myself first time... Is a kit considered DIY? I suppose it is. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tauzero Posted April 16 Share Posted April 16 2 minutes ago, lidl e said: I ordered a predrilled enclosure! Made it easy on myself first time... Is a kit considered DIY? I suppose it is. Well, you're going from a completely disassembled state to a completely assembled one, and doing it yourself, so yes. The next step is to be @disssa, deconstruct an existing design, design your own PCB, and build that. Next stage from that is to get a copy of Horowitz and Hill and any relevant IC design documents and design your own effect from the ground up. I suspect that even the most dedicated purist would stop short of manufacturing their own components, so that's about as DIY as you could get. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobbass4k Posted April 16 Share Posted April 16 3 hours ago, tauzero said: Well, you're going from a completely disassembled state to a completely assembled one, and doing it yourself, so yes. The next step is to be @disssa, deconstruct an existing design, design your own PCB, and build that. Next stage from that is to get a copy of Horowitz and Hill and any relevant IC design documents and design your own effect from the ground up. I suspect that even the most dedicated purist would stop short of manufacturing their own components, so that's about as DIY as you could get. I don't know how the rest of you feel, but i think anyone who doesn't have a small semiconductor fab in their shed and a resistor winding station in their bathroom is just a poser. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bassybert Posted April 16 Share Posted April 16 4 hours ago, tauzero said: Well, you're going from a completely disassembled state to a completely assembled one, and doing it yourself, so yes. The next step is to be @disssa, deconstruct an existing design, design your own PCB, and build that. Next stage from that is to get a copy of Horowitz and Hill and any relevant IC design documents and design your own effect from the ground up. I suspect that even the most dedicated purist would stop short of manufacturing their own components, so that's about as DIY as you could get. I’m going one step further. Currently investing in my future pedal endeavours by planting trees for carbon, mining ore for metal and have a couple of silicon and germanium saplings ready for planting out - It’s the only way you’ll get the authentic tone 🤪 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lidl e Posted April 16 Share Posted April 16 ok. I think i can do this... i hope you fellas can bear with me with some very basic questions! First off, i dont need this schematic to build this, right? I've got the bits and a BOM that corresponds to the PCB layout. Ive got that figured out. But i dont really need to know what this is showing me ( i can get the gist from the parts list) Second basic question. On the input and output jacks, which lug gets the red and which lig gets the black? I assume the one on the left is the red wire and the one in the right is black? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LukeFRC Posted April 16 Share Posted April 16 Black wires are ground. Or sleave of the Jack. orange wires are tip (or signal) 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LukeFRC Posted April 16 Share Posted April 16 Click through the build for the Vong - it’s the same principles start with small things and work your way up https://schalltechnik04.de/en/instructions/vong-filterung/5 go slowly, check orientation of things that have polarity. It is worth following which part is where on the schematic just because then you know where things are. go slowly, make sure each solder is good. when soldering the footswitch do each joint and then let it cool before doing the next 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bassybert Posted April 16 Share Posted April 16 Also, there should be a layout with the kit that gives you the location of each component and it’s orientation if it’s polarised. Judging by the questions you’re asking I’d definitely have a read of Fuzzdog’s pedal building guide before you start. Some of it only applies to the kits they sell but there’s loads of good info on the basics that will help you a lot. Your can find it at… http://pedalparts.co.uk/docs/GeneralBuildGuide.pdf 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LukeFRC Posted April 16 Share Posted April 16 42 minutes ago, Bassybert said: Also, there should be a layout with the kit that gives you the location of each component and it’s orientation if it’s polarised. PedalPCB do really good PCB layouts, and then fairly minimal parts list and Schematic... https://docs.pedalpcb.com/project/FrequencyInterchange-PedalPCB.pdf The PCB has the values on it I think? 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tauzero Posted April 17 Share Posted April 17 If your eyesight is as blurry as mine, check resistor and capacitor values before putting them in. Something like https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/166388291985 is really useful. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tauzero Posted April 24 Share Posted April 24 Simple Zoom up/down patch switcher. I wanted a simple way of going up and down through patches on an MS-60B - this would also allow one effect in each patch to be switchable. This uses the Arduino Pro Mini (3.3V version) and a USB host shield, which keeps it all in a compact format. It does require a minor modification to the host shield as the Zoom pedal will take power from the USB connection, which needs to be at 5V. This is the USB host shield I used: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/192928198858 and an example of the Pro Mini is https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/305210446733. This also needs a programmer, for example https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/235444132988, as the Pro Mini doesn't have a USB port. The host shield is modified by cutting the trace running to the USB 5V pad (note: there may not be a 2k2 resistor where shown) and then connecting Vraw on the Arduino Pro Mini to Vbus on the USB connector (the red blob marked 5V, see photo a bit further down). Power is then supplied via a protection diode and 7805 voltage regulator, giving 5V. Incidentally, cutting the trace is harder than it seems - after cutting it, check there's no continuity between the 5V Vbus pad and the 3.3V pin. Two momentary action footswitches do the switching: patch up -> pin 2, patch down -> pin 3 Cutting the hole for the USB socket - make sure the plug body can fit in to ensure a good connection. All the internals: Switches and power supply (I used 4-way male and female headers for 5V, ground, and the two switches to make it easy to split the two parts). The voltage regulator is bolted to the box, somewhat overkill for a heatsink but it does keep it anchored in place. The connector is centre negative and there's a diode in the positive line for reverse polarity protection (somewhat surrounded by heatshrink).There's not a lot of vertical space so the footswitches are as high as they'll go. A less obstructed view of the board. Note that the plain veroboard under the Arduino is simply there for insulation, and the two pieces above it are just to hold the Arduino in place - thinking about it more, with the benefit of hindsight, if I'd soldered the male headers pointing downward on the host shield rather than upwards on the Arduino, they would have protruded enough to solder a piece of perfboard with pads rather than strips on it to the underside which could have been used to fasten it all to the lid. You can see in this that I've run the 5V (red) to the Vraw pin, and from there a second red wire runs to the Vbus pad right behind the USB socket. There's heatshrink all over the place because this is so tightly packed. The GND and DTR that you can see written there are to make it easy to get the programmer connected the right way round, although that should no longer be relevant since I got it working properly. In the program, set patchMax to 49 for MS-60B etc or 99 for G3/B3. The program itself is pretty simple, it uses ezButton to handle debouncing etc. The only bits that might warrant further explanation are the delay loops in setup - the 7 second one is the pause for the MS-60B to get started up (from powering up to when the current patch appears on the screen) and the USB one is waiting for USB to get ready (behaviour is rather odd if that isn't in, took me a little while to work that out). Note that because it's not detecting the current patch number, it simply resets the pedal to patch 1 (program 0 in MIDI terms). ZoomPatchSwitch.ino 7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LukeFRC Posted April 24 Share Posted April 24 this is very cool I am taking notes on your construction - on my midi switcher for a C4 synth I had perf board screwed to the lid and then headers - it wasn't great I'm messing around with a pi pico thing to try and make usb host switching possible rather than midi Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.