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DIY Effects


JackLondon

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I started looking at the Pi Pico when I ran into problems with the Arduino switcher - basically, it would switch up and down, but needed two button presses to switch once. I built a USB sniffer with a Pico - https://github.com/ataradov/usb-sniffer-lite and discovered that it was an issue with USB not being ready, and put in the delay loop that I mention.

 

The USB sniffer (as you and others may find it useful):

 

USBsniffer.thumb.jpg.a001d53ee596f6aacd005a90e2a27d82.jpg

 

Anyroadup, once I got the Arduino working, I stopped looking at the Pico. It did seem interesting though. I may go back to it.

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I see a few questions on spray painting enclosures. I find the MTN94 graffiti paint works really well with very little prep. Depending on the enclosure you may need to use a degreaser but otherwise there's no need to sand the case before or during coats. To get a nice shiny finish I get a good wet spray of their glossy varnish. 

 

I use a toaster oven for each coat but it will also dry pretty well in a few days on its own.

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1 hour ago, moose23 said:

I see a few questions on spray painting enclosures. I find the MTN94 graffiti paint works really well with very little prep. Depending on the enclosure you may need to use a degreaser but otherwise there's no need to sand the case before or during coats. To get a nice shiny finish I get a good wet spray of their glossy varnish. 

 

I use a toaster oven for each coat but it will also dry pretty well in a few days on its own.

I've often wondered what you use Moose! Thanks for the info!

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17 hours ago, Bigwan said:

I've often wondered what you use Moose! Thanks for the info!

 

Ha cool. I've moved to a powder coating system for the most part nowadays but do the odd run with paint on occasion.

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Posted (edited)
On 16/04/2024 at 10:46, lidl e said:

I took the plunge with my first kit.

 

Let's see if i can figure this out. 

 

It's a HPF/LPF clone kit from das musikding

 

IMG-20240416-WA0000.thumb.jpeg.861b62360a7101014c6bff6438727028.jpeg

 

 

 

Ok, so i finally got around to starting this.....

 

And i already messed up! 

 

(I put a resistor into a capacitor slot and clipped it!)

 

Not sure if catastrophic or not yet, but i did definitely learn some lessons already. 

 

I think i got the actual soldering bit down, but i think i should populate everything forst instead if going one at a time.

 

Is there an easy way to remove resistors once put on the board? How about removing solder from a hole that it got into?

 

Those are my two issues currently

 

 

Also, i assume you can overheat parts?

 

I might have to source a few new resistors!

Edited by lidl e
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Solder sucker to desolder the component and clear the hole. Alternatively, put a jeweller's flat-bladed screwdriver under one end of the resistor to apply a little gentle tension and then melt the joint, and repeat for the other end, but if you then have a blocked hole, melt the solder and put minimum pressure on the lead when pushing the right component in to avoid lifting the track off the PCB. Heating up resistors soldering them shouldn't hurt them.

 

I generally populate boards by putting a few components in at a time, soldering them and then snipping the leads. Resistors first, then diodes, then capacitors, followed by IC sockets and then transistors - the lowest profile components go in first so you're not hampered putting them in by taller ones.

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54 minutes ago, tauzero said:

Resistors first, then diodes, then capacitors, followed by IC sockets and then transistors - the lowest profile components go in first so you're not hampered putting them in by taller ones.

This 

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10 hours ago, lidl e said:

I was kind of grtting the hang of it, then i put a resistor there un a cap slot

 

20240504_222932.thumb.jpg.2bc803125f665838a685a62878f908c1.jpg20240504_222944.thumb.jpg.587fe2bbf812c02ba9a0feac4021b8ab.jpg

 

If you wanna swing by mine I can clean that mistake. Maybe get the rest in before ya do just in case. Main thing is your spotting the mistake when it happens and not after you've finished up the build.

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3 hours ago, moose23 said:

 

If you wanna swing by mine I can clean that mistake. Maybe get the rest in before ya do just in case. Main thing is your spotting the mistake when it happens and not after you've finished up the build.

You the man, moose! 

 

I might have to do just that! Gonna see if i can soet it. I did irder a solder sucker, but you mught see me in your doorstep!

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  • 3 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

On my workbench today, the production version of this new "digital BBD": https://cabintechglobal.com/ct3680

 

I've been beta testing a prototype version for the last month or two and am quite impressed, especially with the excellent noise floor. The production one is a lot smaller and has some new features for stereo applications, which has been my primary  focus for testing and development. No commercial interest on my part, at least yet. ;)

Edited by Passinwind
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2 hours ago, Passinwind said:

On my workbench today, the production version of this new "digital BBD": https://cabintechglobal.com/ct3680

 

I've been beta testing a prototype version for the last month or two and am quite impressed, especially with the excellent noise floor. The production one is a lot smaller and has some new features for stereo applications, which has been my primary  focus for testing and development. No commercial interest on my part, at least yet. ;)

that looks really interesting!

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Posted (edited)
21 minutes ago, LukeFRC said:

that looks really interesting!

I took on beta testing on a lark when they were soliciting on the PPCB forum, but now I'm all-in on actually building some pedals with them. It actually sounds better than some old mid level rack delays I've owned, maybe even all of them.

 

Just for example, with a little effort you can wire in one of those uber cheap signal generator boards on eBay or Amazon as an LFO, and a dead simple mixer circuit or two, and voila...a very good sounding chorus pedal. Same for expression pedals as controllers, etc. In my case I already have many small DIY mixer and EQ modules on hand, so instead of breadboarding I just hardwired those in various test configurations.

Edited by Passinwind
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  • 2 weeks later...

IMG_1022.thumb.jpeg.3e80a4a2047173e707916454873ef41d.jpeg

 

Different manufacturers enclosure so spent a bit of time sanding them for a smoother finish. 
IMG_1017.thumb.jpeg.2e7b4a75850465b13bc26ef81e448e75.jpeg
 

I spent a bit of time making the build way cleaner and neater looking! You can see my one covered with electrical tape!

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12 hours ago, LukeFRC said:

Different manufacturers enclosure so spent a bit of time sanding them for a smoother finish. 

Nice! Are you using a metal last underneath when doing the letter stamping?

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  • 1 month later...
  • 4 weeks later...
3 hours ago, Sibob said:

Does anyone have any experience with programming relay bypasses?

 

Cheets

Si

I would look at the PedalPCB forum .... they call their bypass that can do more than on/off the intelligent bypass

 

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40 minutes ago, LukeFRC said:

I would look at the PedalPCB forum .... they call their bypass that can do more than on/off the intelligent bypass

 


It’s more that I have a pedal with a RB that needs a little tweaking by someone in the know.

 

Si

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56 minutes ago, Sibob said:


It’s more that I have a pedal with a RB that needs a little tweaking by someone in the know.

 

Si

is it an on/off relay bypass or one that has momentary actions too? 

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  • 2 weeks later...

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