LukeFRC Posted January 4 Posted January 4 (edited) populated and wired up (without the bypass) and it works and sounds like the descriptions! Edited January 4 by LukeFRC 3 Quote
MichaelDean Posted January 4 Posted January 4 Got the megalith working today! Sounds massive. Can't wait to hear it at war volume! I did realise that I'd wired the LEDs the wrong way round though, so that was a faff swapping them round. My only other annoyance is that the knobs I ordered don't quite fit. That's what I get from ordering from AliExpress 🙄 Need to get some others ordered. I've also started on a patch bay for my board. It's not very handy having the ins and outs for the multi where they are. Just need to drill out the enclosure and pop in the jacks I've soldered up. Quote
LukeFRC Posted January 5 Posted January 5 (edited) Stoked it sounds soo good - kinda wavefolded fuzz with a kinda envelope - really touch sensitive I’ve got different knobs for the ones I’m building up but might need to get smaller ones like these Edited January 5 by LukeFRC 2 Quote
Bassybert Posted January 5 Posted January 5 On 02/01/2025 at 10:36, LukeFRC said: this is a very exciting delivery! Is this your own design Luke? Quote
LukeFRC Posted January 5 Posted January 5 1 hour ago, Bassybert said: Is this your own design Luke? My Own pcb design of the prunes and custard circuit - I wanted it small 2 Quote
JPJ Posted January 13 Posted January 13 Looking for help from one of you DIY’ers with the necessary skills. So I have just snaffled a Yamaha Nathan East NE-1 parametric equaliser for a very reasonable price from FaceAche market place. I’ve owned at least two of these before, and foolishly sold them when I’ve gone through the ‘I don’t need fancy pedals anymore’ phase. Having now done a few amp’less gigs I can see this being more the case going forward, so I’d like to add the NE-1 to my pedal board, but to do that, I need a couple of modifications. 1) rehouse in a new enclosure that will allow the addition of a true bypass foot switch (hopefully with LED for pedal on). 2) add a 2.1mm 9V centre negative power socket. Is there any of you guys who would be willing to take this on for me (paid of course) as my electronic skills are sadly lacking and I don’t want to ruin the NE-1 with my ham-fisted soldering skills. Ideally, by rehousing the innards in a new enclosure, the mods would be relatively easily reversible if I wanted to in the future. 1 Quote
bremen Posted January 13 Posted January 13 (edited) Yes I could do that I assume you don't need any fancy paint, graphics etc, just a robust die-cast box? Edited January 13 by bremen 1 Quote
LukeFRC Posted January 13 Posted January 13 the other option would be leave it as is and build a new one https://www.musikding.de/EQ-Anyone-kit 1 Quote
bobbass4k Posted January 13 Posted January 13 Does anyone have a reliable source for PNP germanium transistors? Got a couple of cheap job lots off ebay (40pcs) and they're all sub 40 hfe garbage. In the past I've gone for low gain silicon ones but they seem to be running out too. Got a TAFM clone to build but need a couple of 60-100 hfe PNPs. Been a long time since i've had to look but the usual sources seem to have dried up. Quote
JPJ Posted January 13 Posted January 13 3 hours ago, LukeFRC said: the other option would be leave it as is and build a new one https://www.musikding.de/EQ-Anyone-kit I did try that, and wrecked two kits with my soldering skills and lack of attention to detail. Hence when one became available on line, I went for it 😂 1 Quote
JPJ Posted January 13 Posted January 13 3 hours ago, bremen said: Yes I could do that I assume you don't need any fancy paint, graphics etc, just a robust die-cast box? Yes just a robust die-cast box is fine. I’ll pm you 😎 Quote
paul_5 Posted January 13 Posted January 13 As Bremen says, it’s a simple enough job, but it won’t be half as pretty. Can I add a second option - a cheap loop pedal with this in the Send and Return with an LED will allow it to function exactly as you described, but will leave your NE-1 in tip-top condition. Quote
JPJ Posted January 13 Posted January 13 2 minutes ago, paul_5 said: As Bremen says, it’s a simple enough job, but it won’t be half as pretty. Can I add a second option - a cheap loop pedal with this in the Send and Return with an LED will allow it to function exactly as you described, but will leave your NE-1 in tip-top condition. Yes I thought of that, but real estate is a bit of a factor. Quote
LukeFRC Posted January 16 Posted January 16 For years I’ve been using leaded solder - and nearly at the end of my spool… any recommendations for lead free solder that’s not awful not going to make me want to throw things out the window? Quote
Goliath_FX Posted January 16 Posted January 16 56 minutes ago, LukeFRC said: For years I’ve been using leaded solder - and nearly at the end of my spool… any recommendations for lead free solder that’s not awful not going to make me want to throw things out the window? I use Loctite Multicore - https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/solder/1850070 and I set my iron to about 410 for it. Melts and flows well. You'll find that unless you are using lead free boards that it looks a little dull but they are not cold solder joints. Still super solid. Either that or Kester, I've not used the Kester stuff but its meant to be top draw. 1 Quote
LukeFRC Posted January 16 Posted January 16 42 minutes ago, Goliath_FX said: I use Loctite Multicore - https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/solder/1850070 and I set my iron to about 410 for it. Melts and flows well. You'll find that unless you are using lead free boards that it looks a little dull but they are not cold solder joints. Still super solid. Either that or Kester, I've not used the Kester stuff but its meant to be top draw. Think I paid £6 for my last spool of solder! 🤣 Quote
LukeFRC Posted January 16 Posted January 16 I think ild ideally need to upgrade my basic soldering iron too - hmmm Quote
Goliath_FX Posted January 16 Posted January 16 8 minutes ago, LukeFRC said: Think I paid £6 for my last spool of solder! 🤣 Haha be that as it may, good solder, good joints, costs a bit, also its a 500g roll that will last you about 3 months if your building a lot of pedals. Especially if your selling them. You need to be RoHS compliant remember 1 Quote
nekomatic Posted January 16 Posted January 16 (edited) 2 hours ago, LukeFRC said: For years I’ve been using leaded solder - and nearly at the end of my spool… any recommendations for lead free solder that’s not awful not going to make me want to throw things out the window? Most lead-free solder melts at 227 °C but if you look around you can find stuff with a 217 °C melting point - from memory it has about 3 % silver in it though, so it may be a little more expensive. I guess that should make it a little easier to use although to be honest I've never directly compared the two. edit to add: https://cpc.farnell.com/stannol/631902/solder-lead-free-1-0mm-100g/dp/SD01178 for example. You need (in my experience) a temperature controlled soldering iron, and to use the right size bit for each job, and then you'll wonder why anyone moans about lead free. Edited January 16 by nekomatic product link 1 Quote
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