Goliath_FX Posted January 24 Posted January 24 On 23/01/2025 at 21:21, LukeFRC said: Meanwhile in my madness… gloss on Matt black - looks pretty good! Expand They look class, Tayda printshop? Quote
LukeFRC Posted January 24 Posted January 24 On 24/01/2025 at 08:10, Goliath_FX said: They look class, Tayda printshop? Expand Gojira up in Glasgow. They carry the M45 - probably more expensive than Tayda but sometimes U.K. companies give better results and comms and … well I don’t mind supporting our local community! 2 Quote
bloke_zero Posted January 25 Posted January 25 Any body want this? Yours for postage. A single sided pcb for a 360 preamp plus build guide. dm me 1 Quote
Quatschmacher Posted February 4 Posted February 4 On 23/01/2025 at 21:21, LukeFRC said: Meanwhile in my madness… gloss on Matt black - looks pretty good! Expand Ooh, nice. So you’re doing a batch of these? Quote
Si600 Posted February 5 Posted February 5 I'm looking for something like a Lazy Bear 2 way patch box, https://www.lazy-bear.co.uk/product-page/patchbay-side-load but, not meaning any disrespect to Lazy Bear, or anyone else who makes them, I'm not paying 28 quid for something I've got all the parts for except the enclosure. Which is where you come in, any ideas where I'd get a box from? All the ones my Google-Fu has found are either far too big, or too low to get the jack sockets in. Ideally it would be 50mm x 40mm x 25-30mm. Also, available in the EU without a billion pounds of shipping added Ta everso. Quote
LukeFRC Posted February 5 Posted February 5 On 05/02/2025 at 15:34, Si600 said: I'm looking for something like a Lazy Bear 2 way patch box, https://www.lazy-bear.co.uk/product-page/patchbay-side-load but, not meaning any disrespect to Lazy Bear, or anyone else who makes them, I'm not paying 28 quid for something I've got all the parts for except the enclosure. Which is where you come in, any ideas where I'd get a box from? All the ones my Google-Fu has found are either far too big, or too low to get the jack sockets in. Ideally it would be 50mm x 40mm x 25-30mm. Also, available in the EU without a billion pounds of shipping added Ta everso. Expand Hammond 1590LB close enough? 1 Quote
MichaelDean Posted February 5 Posted February 5 @LukeFRC pipped me! This should do it for cheap. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Mikinona-Aluminum-Electrc-Enclosure-Aluminium/dp/B0BXKP4KPY/ref=sr_1_5 Quote
LukeFRC Posted February 5 Posted February 5 On 04/02/2025 at 14:42, Quatschmacher said: Ooh, nice. So you’re doing a batch of these? Expand Indeed. I've got the parts for 6. One for me, one for Lee who encouraged me to try this, and 2-3 I think spoken for. I need to check I'm not making too many that I fall foul of the rules on here by talking about them! Quote
tauzero Posted February 5 Posted February 5 On 05/02/2025 at 15:50, LukeFRC said: though I would have thought 1590A would work too Expand And 1590H. A handy reference attached. Hammond boxes.xlsxFetching info... 1 Quote
LukeFRC Posted February 5 Posted February 5 my only thought, as I currently squeeze things in Gorva m45 with top jacks - small jacks cost a fair bit - and if it's going underneath your board a bigger patch bay with cheaper jacks may be easier than a micro one! Quote
Si600 Posted February 5 Posted February 5 I have sort of barrel jacks that have legs on one face, I suspect they're actually surface mount ones, but they have a nut on the outside as well. They will be in less danger of grounding on the case. I was looking for plastic boxes, and aluminium one hadn't occurred to me. Thanks for the help chaps. Quote
Si600 Posted February 8 Posted February 8 I've got my enclosure, beautifully packed... Of course, now I've got it it looks far too small, despite me knowing the dimensions of the two things going in it 😉 4 Quote
BabyBlueSound Posted February 10 Posted February 10 (edited) Hey Everyone, I'm new into DIY pedals! Just finishing up my first FuzzDog pedal, a Mastodon (based on Mastotron). Final wirings are being done in the underbelly (hopefully done today or tomorrow), I have already tested the board out of the enclosure, seemed to work! Edited February 10 by BabyBlueSound 7 Quote
BabyBlueSound Posted February 10 Posted February 10 Wow, I can't believe it but it actually works! 😁 5 Quote
pete.young Posted February 12 Posted February 12 (edited) Does anyone have any thoughts, or maybe even a circuit diagram, for adding a status LED to a momentary footswitch? I have a pair of momentary footswitches that I'm using to change the channel and mute on my EA Doubler but some indication on the switch would be handy. I could buy a dual footswitch pedal from Bright Onion for 65 quid, but it should be possible to build one for less. I was obviously thinking about this problem a while ago, because I've just come across a couple of flip-flop ICs (SN74HC74N) in a drawer, and I can't think of any other reason I'd have bought them. I found a schematic which seems to do what i want to do, I guess I use the footswitch for the clock and just connect D to VCC instead of having another switch? http://sullystationtechnologies.com/icdflipflop.html Edited February 12 by pete.young 1 Quote
nekomatic Posted February 12 Posted February 12 On 12/02/2025 at 13:24, pete.young said: I found a schematic which seems to do what i want to do, I guess I use the footswitch for the clock and just connect D to VCC instead of having another switch? http://sullystationtechnologies.com/icdflipflop.html Expand You’d want to connect D to Qbar I think. Also if your footswitch is only a single-pole switch with one set of contacts, you can’t necessarily just connect this circuit across them without first checking the voltage and polarity that the amp puts across the open switch. 1 Quote
DaleASmith Posted February 12 Posted February 12 On 12/02/2025 at 13:24, pete.young said: Does anyone have any thoughts, or maybe even a circuit diagram, for adding a status LED to a momentary footswitch? I have a pair of momentary footswitches that I'm using to change the channel and mute on my EA Doubler but some indication on the switch would be handy. I could buy a dual footswitch pedal from Bright Onion for 65 quid, but it should be possible to build one for less. Expand If they’re momentary why do you need indication on them? They’re only active when you have your foot on the switch aren’t they? Quote
Chienmortbb Posted February 12 Posted February 12 On 12/02/2025 at 15:36, nekomatic said: You’d want to connect D to Qbar I think. Also if your footswitch is only a single-pole switch with one set of contacts, you can’t necessarily just connect this circuit across them without first checking the voltage and polarity that the amp puts across the open switch. Expand Agreed. 1 Quote
Chienmortbb Posted February 12 Posted February 12 On 12/02/2025 at 15:47, DaleASmith said: If they’re momentary why do you need indication on them? They’re only active when you have your foot on the switch aren’t they? Expand Although the amp can accept either a latched or momentary foot switch, you would have to turn around to look at the status on the amp front panel. As long as you check the setting on the amp prior to starting, the foot switch LED will indicate which functions are selected. 1 Quote
DaleASmith Posted February 12 Posted February 12 On 12/02/2025 at 16:05, Chienmortbb said: Although the amp can accept either a latched or momentary foot switch, you would have to turn around to look at the status on the amp front panel. As long as you check the setting on the amp prior to starting, the foot switch LED will indicate which functions are selected. Expand Got ya! 👍 Quote
pete.young Posted February 12 Posted February 12 On 12/02/2025 at 16:05, Chienmortbb said: Although the amp can accept either a latched or momentary foot switch, you would have to turn around to look at the status on the amp front panel. As long as you check the setting on the amp prior to starting, the foot switch LED will indicate which functions are selected. Expand According to the manual the amp expects a momentary switch and doesn't mention a latching switch, so I assumed that wasn't an option. After I posted I read the data sheet, and you're right - connect D to Q bar. The switches I have are DPDT so I think I wire one side to the output and one side to the LED circuit. The other question is what to do about syncing with the state of the amp. The Bright Onion has a sync switch which changes the LED without affecting the output, Quote
nekomatic Posted February 12 Posted February 12 On 12/02/2025 at 17:17, pete.young said: The switches I have are DPDT so I think I wire one side to the output and one side to the LED circuit. The other question is what to do about syncing with the state of the amp. The Bright Onion has a sync switch which changes the LED without affecting the output Expand Double pole switches makes life easier. You can just wire a momentary push button in parallel with the foot switch contacts in your circuit, then pressing the push button will change the LED state but not the amp. 1 Quote
LukeFRC Posted February 13 Posted February 13 You know the time you first solder a project together, and it works, and it sounds great, and it makes up for all the "oh crap why did I make it in such a small enclosure?" moments... Prunes and Custard in a Gorva M45 (5mm or so wider than 1590A) with top jacks. Printed by Gojira... I think I've missed the wire earthing the input when off, and the bass cut switch might actually be on in the down position... (but it's fairly subtle) But I'm pretty happy with that. Camera died before I could show what top jacks look like... It's also tiny. Got parts and enclosures for another 5 Oh and after 10+ years my solder sucker broke. 9 Quote
LukeFRC Posted February 13 Posted February 13 oh prunes and custard coming from New Zealand... hence Aotearoa Intermodulator name and fern leaf graphics. My uncle is a kiwi so growing up rugby= all blacks 1 Quote
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