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DIY Effects


JackLondon

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[quote name='TG Flatline' timestamp='1326704453' post='1500572']
Glossy and Matte photo papers both work well and I've got decent results with both. I've tried a variety of glues and you know what worked better than anything? A well sanded box and Pritt-Stick. Not kidding, goddam Pritt-Stick. A thin coating on the box and a thin coating on the paper and you're laughing. Smooth it out gently with a credit card. There will be better ways, I'm sure, but that works well for me.
Plastikote Super Clear does a decent job over the top, just make sure you get your coats numerous and uber-thin. Fewer but thicker coats just don't look as good.
[/quote]

Cheers Tom, gone down the dymo label route for the time being as the pedal is working and I don't want to dismantle it unnecessarily. Something to bear in mind for the future if I can find an image the right size.

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[quote name='xgsjx' timestamp='1326720941' post='1500920']
All built & working. Pics to prove it!
Signal goes Bass into Black Router, send to OC-3 > Bass Murf. Left out from Murf (Notched at 160, 350 & 775 Hz only) into SDS-2 & into the return on BR. BR out goes to the CE-2 > MF-101 & then into C1 on mix section on BR.
Right out from Bass Murf goes straight to C2 on BR mix (only frequencies below 110 Hz & a 240 Hz notch goes to this channel) & then both channels mixed together.
When engaged the CE-2 & LPF only affect the looped signal (so all sub is clean). When not engaged, it's a clean sound straight into the CE-2 & LPF.

Proper band test tonight!
Sound clips to follow! :D
[/quote]

Love it! You get the desired affect?


[quote name='GarethFlatlands' timestamp='1326741221' post='1501402']
Cheers Tom, gone down the dymo label route for the time being as the pedal is working and I don't want to dismantle it unnecessarily. Something to bear in mind for the future if I can find an image the right size.
[/quote]

Sweet. How you finding the compressor? I'm building a Ross clone at the minute with a few mods for Bass so interested to know!

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I do indeed. Fitted perfect with my acoustic band tonight. Retains loads of low end & can add all sorts off effects to the 2nd channel.

Here's some better pics...

[url="http://basschat.co.uk/topic/289-post-your-pedal-board-basschat-style/page__view__findpost__p__1501749"]#3019[/url]

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[quote name='TG Flatline' timestamp='1326758091' post='1501724']
Sweet. How you finding the compressor? I'm building a Ross clone at the minute with a few mods for Bass so interested to know!
[/quote]

I'm not really sure about the finer details of compression so Stu tried it tonight for about 15 minutes (he mixed/mastered our last couple of EPs and trained at Red Tape so knows about that kind of thing) and seemed very impressed with it. With the compression on minimum it still gave a bit of clack to the pick attack and was pretty subtle until around 1-2 o'clock. I look forward to giving it a more thorough play with. Very pleased my first build worked 1st time, got the pedal building bug now.

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  • 2 weeks later...

[quote name='xgsjx' timestamp='1326378668' post='1496345']
I didn't know LEDs required the polarity to be the right way round (I thought they'd just be like a tungsten)?
I did try reversing the polarity on the PSU though & still nothing. I'll have a mess about when I get home (@3:30)
[/quote]

yes they do, hence why they're called "light emitting DIODES".

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I have a long term goal of understanding how compressors work at the circuit board level. Are there some simple circuits I can try and play about with? I have a breadboard thingy for testing and swapping components so just need a simple circuit and a trip to maplins...

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  • 3 weeks later...

yep, thats all it is, 4 red LED's wired in to the jack socket so it glows when its plugged in (normally always mains power on my pedal board)
Theres a big long thread on DIYstompboxes about it, worth a read through, just watch your screw lengths as I've run into problems keeping smaller enclosures securely closed once the perspex bling sandwich is inserted.
What would be cooler is bicolour LED's which are green or yellow to indicate power on, then turn red or blue when you activate the effect. Problem is the bicolour LED's I have are really weak so don't give much of an illumination through the perspex

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Heres a WIP - the base plate has had the rim filed off it, the perspex plate has been cut, sanded and drilled, 4 x 5mm holes drilled to take the LEDs that will be wired up to the DC jack/battery. I plan to mount a couple of LEDs sunk into the eye sockets of one of the skulls to act as the on/off indicator.

Edited by Al Heeley
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These are wired 2 pairs in parallel with one single resistor (about 300R fell out of the bag) from the battery.
For the smaller size enclosures I just use 2 LEDS in series at 1/3 spacing down the centre, if that makes sense.
The domed top of the LED is sanded flat so they lie flush in the perspex, I believe the scratched top surface then helps the light to bounce back and out into the perspex but don't hold this to too much scientific scrutiny...

Edited by Al Heeley
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Hey Al, could I ask for your assistance? I popped into Maplin today (just in the passing, not planned) & bought a couple of orange LEDs & a couple of resistors.
I told him what they was for & that it needed to run on 9v & showed him the schematic that has a 2k-5k 1/4 watt resistor. On checking now I'm home I'm not sure if what he's given me will do the job?
Could you help? Please???

Here's what I have:

http://www.maplin.co.uk/5mm-super-bright-orange-leds-35754
http://www.maplin.co.uk/1kandohm-to-3kandohm-metal-film-0.6w-resistors-341607

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those resistors may be a bit much for the superbrights, you need a really bright light to shine thru the perspex effectively, I usually go for about 250 - 400ohm on one LED and 9V battery. For a normal stomp box indicator LED i would use about 1 - 2.5k no problem as it minimises battery drain and the light doesnt need to be really bright. The kit will do the job no problem but the LED's might appear a little weak.

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