Best thing to clean a maple Stingray neck

[Old Horse Murphy]

This has probably been asked a million times but I can't find anything by serching the forum.

What's the best thing to clean a dirty maple Musicman Stingray neck? I've read wonderful things about Murphy's Oil Soap but can't find anywhere to buy it in the UK (and I should know!)

Any help would be much appreciated

[witterth]

Hi
I asked the self same Q a month or two back and, the wisdom of BC was to use, as you say, Murphys. its basically furniture polish. (I got some in B&Q) didnt make much difference truth to tell.
untreated necks get "that" appearance you're no doubt looking to get rid of.
Forum member, out to play jazz, ( for he knows many things,grasshopper )says it would most likely be best to get the neck varnished.So I'm gonna do that as soon as I can find a luither I trust!!!
(otpj does know his stuff BTW)
no reply from Ged Green in Manchester.
not much help I know, but it seems were stuck with the string stains!!
ATB
W

[ikay]

Nick,

Musicman guidance on cleaning and maintaining necks can be found here:

[url="http://www.music-man.com/faq/music-man-basses/how-do-i-maintain-the-neck-on-my-new-music-man-bass.html"]http://www.music-man.com/faq/music-man-bas...c-man-bass.html[/url]

Clean with lemon oil (both maple and rosewood) and then finish with gun oil (you can buy the recommended Birchwood Casey Tru-Oil on ebay). Don't apply gun oil to a dirty neck or it will seal the dirt in. If the lemon oil won't shift it then use very fine sandpaper and then finish with gun oil. This all works by the way, I've done it with mine!

Ian

[quote name='Old Horse Murphy' post='797788' date='Apr 6 2010, 05:18 PM']This has probably been asked a million times but I can't find anything by serching the forum.

What's the best thing to clean a dirty maple Musicman Stingray neck? I've read wonderful things about Murphy's Oil Soap but can't find anywhere to buy it in the UK (and I should know!)

Any help would be much appreciated[/quote]

[Old Horse Murphy]

Thank you all- that's my weekend sorted

Before and after pics to follow

[Jerry_B]

Isn't it wise perhaps to watch what you do with the gun oil near the frets? One wonders if it may encourage them to pop out a bit if too much gun oil works it way in.

[BassBod]

I think its best to only use "lemon oil" on the fretboard - lemon oil (or tung/danish) on the back, followed by the gunstock wax (small amount) as a sealer. I cleaned one up recently, it works well but is hard work if the fingerboard has got very dirty. I like oiled necks, but I would think about a thin satin nitro coat on the fingerboard - they get dirty very easily.

[MB1]

[quote name='BassBod' post='798198' date='Apr 6 2010, 11:36 PM']I think its best to only use "lemon oil" on the fretboard - lemon oil (or tung/danish) on the back, followed by the gunstock wax (small amount) as a sealer. I cleaned one up recently, it works well but is hard work if the fingerboard has got very dirty. I like oiled necks, but I would think about a thin satin nitro coat on the fingerboard - they get dirty very easily.[/quote]

MB1.
...Tung Danish?...Sounds Interesting!...I use Warwick Surface Finisher...(ON The Back Of The Neck!) which gives you a nice satin Finish and brings out the grain.An Initial light sanding before the first application.

Edited April 6, 2010 by MB1

[BassBunny]

[quote name='witterth' post='797807' date='Apr 6 2010, 05:36 PM']no reply from Ged Green in Manchester.[/quote]
If you aren't getting any joy from Ged, try Steve Robinson, [url="http://www.manchesterguitartech.co.uk/"]http://www.manchesterguitartech.co.uk/[/url]
I have had plenty of work don eby him and he is a top man.

[witterth]

[quote name='BassBunny' post='798226' date='Apr 7 2010, 12:19 AM']If you aren't getting any joy from Ged, try Steve Robinson, [url="http://www.manchesterguitartech.co.uk/"]http://www.manchesterguitartech.co.uk/[/url]
I have had plenty of work don eby him and he is a top man.[/quote]
Thanks for that......
MrBB, will do on your reccomendation

[ikay]

[quote name='BassBod' post='798198' date='Apr 6 2010, 11:36 PM']I think its best to only use "lemon oil" on the fretboard - lemon oil (or tung/danish) on the back, followed by the gunstock wax (small amount) as a sealer. I cleaned one up recently, it works well but is hard work if the fingerboard has got very dirty. I like oiled necks, but I would think about a thin satin nitro coat on the fingerboard - they get dirty very easily.[/quote]

I contacted Ernie Ball about cleaning a maple neck last year and they were very clear that wax should NEVER be applied to the fretboard. Their reply (from John Quinn - [email protected]) said this:

"For a Maple Fretboard use high grade lemon oil to clean and only Tru oil to seal (DO NOT USE WAX). Ernie Ball Wonder Wipes do a very good job maintaining the Fretboard."

Gun oil (eg. Birchwood Casey Tru-Oil) is used to seal the fretboard. The back of the neck can be cleaned and sealed in exactly the same way but is then followed by rubbing in a very small amount of gunstock wax to finish it.

[Al Heeley]

+1 for ikay - thats how I care for mine.

[BassBod]

Sorry if my wording wasn't clear - I don't put wax on the fretboard! I only use the Birchwood "gunstock" wax on the back as a final sealer (but only a tiny amount, wiped clean again in a few mins). Good point about the Warwick finisher/wax - unlike many others that doea a good job on the back of the neck without leaving any stickiness and also doesn't have any of the health warnings you see on the Birchwood products

[ikay]

[quote name='BassBod' post='802722' date='Apr 11 2010, 04:11 PM']Sorry if my wording wasn't clear - I don't put wax on the fretboard! I only use the Birchwood "gunstock" wax on the back as a final sealer (but only a tiny amount, wiped clean again in a few mins). Good point about the Warwick finisher/wax - unlike many others that doea a good job on the back of the neck without leaving any stickiness and also doesn't have any of the health warnings you see on the Birchwood products[/quote]

Sorry BassBod, I misread your post, it's happening more often the older I get

[kryztovr]

Karcher power washer

[Al Heeley]

[quote name='BassBod' post='802722' date='Apr 11 2010, 04:11 PM']... Good point about the Warwick finisher/wax - unlike many others that doea a good job on the back of the neck without leaving any stickiness and also doesn't have any of the health warnings you see on the Birchwood products[/quote]
I think you're comparing Warwick (bees)wax with tru-oil, thats not really a valid comparison if you're highlighting health & safety concerns. Since you only use a tiny smear of tru-oil on a rag and rub it in. funny how 'natural' products like Linseed oil don't seem to generate as much knee-jerk health concerns. that's basically all tru-oil is. I wouldn't be too worried about ingestion or inhalation at the normal usage levels.
the gunstock wax is going to be no better or worse than any other wax, beeswax, carnauba, warwick or otherwise.
I don't have shares in Birchwood Casey, but I am a chemicals geek.

[The Gedi]

Ged Green didn't reply because he never received the request but hey ho!

The problem is that the Music Man necks are not totally sealed as on a neck that is sealed with lacquer, the oil that is used doesnt fill the pores of the wood so it leaves minute hollows that fill with everyday grime and general dna from your hands. The only way to clean them is to add more oil or a solvent to try to float the grime out of the pores - oils would be - linseed oil, tung oil, Danish oil etc. - solvents would be turps or white spirit. If you take the spirit route make sure you dry it out thoroughly and add new oil after cleaning.

I wouldn't put any water based products near the wood - soap etc. -Sugar soap as used by decorators might be ok but I would wipe it off and dry it pretty quick - you don't want moisture getting into the wood.

I wouldn'y use any sandpaper as someone has suggested - it is better to use OOOO wire wool - that's four noughts wire wool as used by French polishers - it's very fine and wont damage the fibres of the wood, it will also polish up your frets at the same time. the wire wool can be used for applying the solvent and/or the new oil finish, when it dries give it a polish with a clean cloth.

I hope the above is of use.
Ged

[BassBod]

[quote name='Al Heeley' post='820577' date='Apr 27 2010, 01:02 PM']I think you're comparing Warwick (bees)wax with tru-oil, thats not really a valid comparison if you're highlighting health & safety concerns. Since you only use a tiny smear of tru-oil on a rag and rub it in. funny how 'natural' products like Linseed oil don't seem to generate as much knee-jerk health concerns. that's basically all tru-oil is. I wouldn't be too worried about ingestion or inhalation at the normal usage levels.
the gunstock wax is going to be no better or worse than any other wax, beeswax, carnauba, warwick or otherwise.
I don't have shares in Birchwood Casey, but I am a chemicals geek.[/quote]


I'm just reading what it says on the (gunstock wax) bottle.....I'm no expert! But I do think it also has somethng to do with state law requirements in California? I also prefer the smell of the Warwick wax, man.