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Fret Leveling


TPJ
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Hi,

I bought an SX Jazz bass from Rondo and overall am pleased with it (see the build diaries thread about these). The one major issue is that the fret wire is very uneven in height around the first and second fret. Why do I think this? Because it has massive string buzz no matter what adjustments I make. I took about three weeks to tweak it this way and that but when you play F, Bb, Eb and Ab on the first fret, bzzzzzzzzzzzzzz.

So, being one to try just about anything once and this being a cheap bass, I'm going to try my hand at fret leveling and I'll keep a diary of this to post here. I'd like help with a couple of things before I start from those out there who dabble in this sort of thing and from those who build proper.

1. What bare essential tools do I need? I'm going to buy an 8" level to uses as a sanding block. From what I read, sanding is a little easier than using a file. Please add comments here about this.

2. Where can I find a cradle for the neck or is there an easy way to build one?

3. Do I really need a fret file to crown the frets after leveling or can I use sand paper and steel wool for this. Again, comments please.

4. It's a rose wood fingerboard. Do I need to tape it off while doing the work or can I leave it as is being careful not to take any wood while sanding, and restore the wood afterwards with lemon oil or something similar?

Any help, comments, observations, hints etc... will be greatly appreciated. Worse comes to worse, I'll replace the neck if I buggar it up.

Cheers,

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IANAL (I am not a luthier) so take these with a pinch of salt...

2nd fret is too high... or 1st fret might be too low...

get a straight edge up against the frets with no tension in the strings (hopefully, the neck should go flat. You may have to slacken off the truss rod as well). This will tell you whether the 2nd fret is too high or the first fret is too low... if the latter, then you'd best get the neck repaired/replaced under warranty (if it's still inside it) or else get the first fret replaced by a professional.

Crown the frets afterwards otherwise you will have intonation problems as the fretting point will not be nicely defined...

tape off the fingerboard to protect it... then clean it afterwards anyway...

following web page has some info on how to level frets yourself.

[url="http://www.bassplayer.com/article/leveling-frets/jul-06/22006"]http://www.bassplayer.com/article/leveling...ts/jul-06/22006[/url]

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Beg borrow or buy Dan Erlewines guitar repair book and read the 3 chapters on fret dressing..... If you have some manual dexterity you should be able to do it.... If you have some skill you should be able to a good job of it..

1. What bare essential tools do I need? I'm going to buy an 8" level to uses as a sanding block. From what I read, sanding is a little easier than using a file. Please add comments here about this.

One straight edge or the best qaulity 6" metal rule that you can afford (nearly straight is not good enough) 6-8" diamond file preferably varuious grades. Yes you do need a fret file to radius the frets when levelled but there are vearious diifernt porfiles you can shape them too! Dont use grit paper its not accurate enough.

2. Where can I find a cradle for the neck or is there an easy way to build one?
I use a rifle support (my other hoby) but making one is easy out of 1/2 ply or MDF.... You need a U section cut out the top to rest teh neck in lined with felt or foam set about 18-24" apart. [url="http://www.mtmcase-gard.com/products/shooting/gun_vise.html"]http://www.mtmcase-gard.com/products/shooting/gun_vise.html[/url] Should give you the idea

3. Do I really need a fret file to crown the frets after leveling or can I use sand paper and steel wool for this. Again, comments please.

As above YEs is the short answer

4. It's a rose wood fingerboard. Do I need to tape it off while doing the work or can I leave it as is being careful not to take any wood while sanding, and restore the wood afterwards with lemon oil or something similar?

Yes if you want to save the finish, it is essential you tape it or alterantively use teh proper fret guide saver...(thin plastic with a slot fret width cut out of it) and Lemming oil is essentil when you have finshed.


Ideally read well on teh subject before you undertake it! Prcatice on a cack neck if your unsure.

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If you aren't taking loads off then the whole crowning thing, which is probably the most time consuming part won't matter nearly as much. The difference fret crowning makes to intonation I've never found to be a problem, never had anyone notice my flat frets from my first refret putting my intonation off till they look, and then they get know-it-all on me. Broad flat frets transfer more sound to the wood or something due to greater contact area, sounds like some tone talker fudge excuse.

If its just the forst fret or two, are you sure it isn't the nut that is too low?

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^If he's fretted the string at the 1st fret then it has nothing to do with the nut..... If it was open strings then it could be......!

It sounds like fret 1 is worn hence buzzing on 2, fret 2 is just too high (or loose) or its a neck relief issue.

really needs to do some work to find out the problem and corect it accordingly.

FYI there is nothing wrong with flat fret tops, there is one profile called "school bus" which DELIBERATELY has a flat top, but here's the important bit and the need for the fret file, the corners need to be smooth and rounded so that there are no sharpe edges..... Sharpe edges on frets are very bad!

Shoolbus frets are my fave are my as I use flatwounds and its less damaging on the strings so they last longer (flat area= less denting in underside of string),

As for flat frets effecting intonation, if the flat is too wide it COULD have an effect on intonation but this is considerably less than not fretting the string with the same pressure every time you create the note. So IMO is negligable.

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Thanks for the input so far everyone. In response to a few comments:

The bass is brand new so the frets aren't worn down, the bass just wasn't made well. It was cheap and from China/The States so no returns etc...

I've almost always set up my basses so I kind of have an idea about neck relief and such. the neck is set correctly and the thing still buzzes. Like I mentioned, it's cheap so things like this are amost expected.

I'll look for that book Burpster. I have "Electric Guitar Setups" by Hideo Kamimoto and his style lends itself more to sand paper than files but I agree with you about the diamond files. They look more efficient. I'll get one or two of those and a proper fret file to make things easier.

I'll keep you all posted and thanks again.

Cheers,

Edited by TPJ
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Its a shame your not a bit closer you could have borrowed my fret file... :) Anyhoo sounds like your not a complete noob at this kinda thing (phew), make sure theres no loose ones in there.... They can really f**k up a good set up.

FYI diamond files arent expensive now so get a couple, a fine and very fine grit.

And good luck..... Dan's Book is like a bible to me ( I actually have both of them now) it well written and well worth the touble of getting it!

Be careful tho' get too good and your guitarist will want you to do stuff to thiers too (like my mates do!) Yawn......

:huh:


PS was thinking about your dilemma whilst out walking my pooch... try to avoid sticking tape on the fret board as the tape adhesive might be a PITA to get off.... best using a fret protector ( i cut a slot in the front of a piece of clear plastic that kids toys are bubbled to card on)..

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AFAIK, Dan's book is out of print. Got a copy myself, but i'm hoping there will be a new revision along at some point. It really should be required reading for anyone attempting their own repairs. Hideo Kamimoto's books have been around for donkeys years now, so some of the info is a little old-fashioned, but the info is no less vital.

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Fortunately sir you are completely wrong......!

[url="http://www.amazon.co.uk/s/ref=nb_ss_w_h_?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=dan+erlewine&Go.x=19&Go.y=13&Go=Go"]http://www.amazon.co.uk/s/ref=nb_ss_w_h_?u....y=13&Go=Go[/url]

If you intend to do any work on your axes, (including a PROPER set up) this will be the best investment you will make..... I have both teh top two books. (the top one actually has bass specific stuff in too! )

:)

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Actually, i'm right.... kind of :)
A quick bell to music-exchange, the suppliers my shop uses, confirmed that the book is indeed now out of print in its 2nd edition, but helpfully informed me that a new 3rd edition should be available before the year is out. I guess a few stores have some of the old left in stock.
I imagine this edition is gonna be the best yet! Worth waiting for methinks....

*just found it on amazon.co.uk for pre-order - looks nifty - appears to come with a dvd offering set-up advice. I suggest we order all Basschatters to obtain a copy as their new bible, and read religiously cover to cover :huh:*

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