Little Mark blown fuse double whammy

[Huw Foster]

I just got home from soundcheck for tonight's gig. It was a mini-disaster.

I arrived late (which was actually unavoidable as I was working), but thankfully my gear was already there and ready to go thanks to my bandmates. We went straight into 'Stomp' by the Brothers Johnson, and literally halfway through the slap bass solo my Little Mark died.

Thinking it was the fuse, I prized open the compartment on the back to find that not only was that the case, but there was a spare there too! The spare was initially super convenient, until it also blew immediately upon switching the amp back on.

Balls.

The fuse in the kettle lead is fine, by the way (and fortunately there's a combo waiting for me back at the venue). So it's definitely a problem with the head itself. My question is, how big a problem is it? Anyone had this happen to them with Mark Bass stuff? Unless it's sheer coincidence, it seems to me that something's not right with the electronics and I need to get it fixed pronto.

Which leads me to my second question - can anyone recommend a good amp tech in or around Leeds? I've got a couple of gigs this weekend, and although I don't mind not having it fixed by then (well, as long as I can beg/borrow/steal one by Friday), getting it sorted a.s.a.p. would be ideal as I'm out every weekend this month.

MASSIVE BALL ACHE.

Anyway, thanks in advance for any advice or, at the very least, sympathy. (I do deserve some, right?)

Huw

[Ou7shined]

Is it dusty inside? Sometimes dust can cause a short.
I regularly hoover mine out - don't put the hoover nozzle directly in the guts of it though - use a clean 1/2" paint brush and carefully sweep out all the sucked in crap straight up into the Hoover nozzle which is held close by. The worst areas are near the fan and the heat-sink.

[Huw Foster]

[quote name='Ou7shined' post='828791' date='May 5 2010, 06:47 PM']Is it dusty inside? Sometimes dust can cause a short.
I regularly hoover mine out - don't put the hoover nozzle directly in the guts of it though - use a clean 1/2" paint brush and carefully sweep out all the sucked in crap straight up into the Hoover nozzle which is held close by. The worst areas are near the fan and the heat-sink.[/quote]
Ah, good call! If that's the case it'll be nothing more than a minor inconvenience. I can't actually check now as it's still at the venue, but tomorrow I'll get myself a brush and some fuses and cross my fingers.

Cheers!

(Most of my original post is still relevant, mind - anyone?)

[Basszilla]

Not advice as such, but I popped a couple of fuses when I used to have a markbass. The amp eventually caught fire during a recording session, a nice rock and roll ending to it's career..

I'd punish the amp with silly amounts of distortion and compression, I certainly had the mileage out of it!

I just binned it in the end, the board was fried. Great amp at the time tho.

[Huw Foster]

Thanks to Ou7shined for the tip on cleaning out the gunk from inside the amp - I'll bear that in mind for future reference.

However, it's definitely not the source of the problem. I did exactly as Ou7shined suggested - I even had to unclog a hoover before I could start, but that's another story. Unfortunately, the amp is still not powering up, and it's blowing a fuse every time I try. (By the way, it's definitely not an issue with the fuse in the kettle lead, as I have tried various others.)

I'm at a bit of a loss what to do next. I've heard the best bet for getting anything Markbass fixed is to actually send it back to Italy... but would it be seriously frowned upon to get a local tech to try to fix it?? My main concern is that it's not under warranty (I bought it used from here, and I believe the guy I bought it from had done the same), so surely it would cost the earth to send it across Europe... or is that fear unfounded?

If anyone has [i]any[/i] advice on Markbass repairs, please let me know asap. It would be hugely appreciated! (I feel a bit like crying right now... is pity enough to warrant a reply?)

[Ou7shined]

That seriously sucks.
You could always try getting in touch with Proel (google it) who I believe are (or at least were at the time I bought mine) the main distributor for the UK. I found their CS to be pretty good. Be up front and honest and see what happens. Good luck.

[Huw Foster]

[quote name='Ou7shined' post='833818' date='May 11 2010, 12:00 AM']That seriously sucks.
You could always try getting in touch with Proel (google it) who I believe are (or at least were at the time I bought mine) the main distributor for the UK. I found their CS to be pretty good. Be up front and honest and see what happens. Good luck.[/quote]
Again, thanks for the suggestion - and the swift reply!

I'll give them a try tomorrow. Right now I'm gonna go cry myself to sleep.

[Huw Foster]

Just got off the phone to Proel, who were very helpful (although I might change that statement if they quote a huge amount for repairs!). I'll be sending the amp to them as soon as I can, will post updates on progress.

[Ou7shined]

Sounds like a step in the right direction.

[Huw Foster]

Finally got round to sending this today*. Hope to hear something from Proel soon!

[size=1]*Would have done this sooner if it weren't for what was presumably a bit of human error from the courier - I left the parcel at a friend's house as I was at work, but the driver claimed that no-one was in when he rang yesterday... could be something to do with the fact that the house doesn't have a number on the front, as he was definitely in all day! To avoid the same confusion I arranged for it to be picked up from yet another alternative address, and it was eventually collected today.[/size]

[Lfalex v1.1]

Been here. Done this, so [i]perhaps[/i] my experience is relevant (up to a point)
My Trace head kept on blowing fuses every time I powered it up- from new.
Turns out Trace had a new transformer supplier, whose products drew a little more juice at start-up than the originals.
Solution? SLOW BLOW fuses. Same value, just the slow-blow variety. Check the value on your internal fuse and replace it with a slow blow variant. Not costly, and you should be able to track 'em down easily enough. Try Maplin or a half-decent HiFi or electrical repair shop.

Worth a go.

Hope this helps.

Alex.

[Huw Foster]

Hi Alex

Thanks for the advice, but I believe I've already tried essentially what it is you're suggesting. The original fuse was glass, so I bought some ceramic anti surge ones from Farnell (I'm pretty sure they're what you're referring to). However, I had no luck with these either.

That's the extent of my technical expertise, and I don't want to potentially worsen the situation by opening it up, so I thought it best to send it off. Here's hoping the repair bill isn't too hefty.

[BassBunny]

[quote name='Huwberry' post='842411' date='May 19 2010, 07:28 PM']Hi Alex

Thanks for the advice, but I believe I've already tried essentially what it is you're suggesting. The original fuse was glass, so I bought some ceramic anti surge ones from Farnell (I'm pretty sure they're what you're referring to). However, I had no luck with these either.

That's the extent of my technical expertise, and I don't want to potentially worsen the situation by opening it up, so I thought it best to send it off. Here's hoping the repair bill isn't too hefty. [/quote]

If Dave Perry's experience with Proel is anything to go by, "don't panic".
He was having problems with his MB head, (quite and old one), that was eventually traced to the speakers. Proel checked the head over, gave a clean bill of health, and sent it back FOC.

[Huw Foster]

[quote name='BassBunny' post='842585' date='May 19 2010, 10:04 PM']If Dave Perry's experience with Proel is anything to go by, "don't panic".
He was having problems with his MB head, (quite and old one), that was eventually traced to the speakers. Proel checked the head over, gave a clean bill of health, and sent it back FOC.[/quote]
I'm hoping that's the case for me. However, I just got off the phone to them - the guy at the repairs department said he'd give me a call later with the quote. Maybe I'm reading into it too much, but something about the manner of the conversation didn't inspire me with much confidence.

Anyway. Paranoia and a potentially hefty repair bill notwithstanding, I'm just looking forward to getting it back soon!

[Huw Foster]

OK then... seems I'll be paying around £125 for a replacement power board. With labour, VAT and shipping included the total will be around £180.

Oh well. I suppose it could have been worse?

[Huw Foster]

Got it back today! The total repair bill (the replacement power board, labour, VAT and shipping) was £188.01. The cost of sending it there means it's been on a £200 round trip.

I guess it's one of the perils of buying an expensive piece of equipment second hand... There is one quite annoying detail though - I'd just clawed my way out of my overdraft for the first time since getting one!

Anyway, it's all done now. I'm gonna go play with it.

[Ou7shined]

Ouch!
Funny that a whole board should fail. I wonder if they just narrowed it down to that vicinity and condemned it?

Having worked in the motor trade where fantastic, resourceful mechanics have been superseded by parts replacers, I'll bet that's the case.

[escholl]

[quote name='Huwberry' post='853692' date='Jun 1 2010, 03:43 PM']OK then... seems I'll be paying around £125 for a replacement power board. With labour, VAT and shipping included the total will be around £180.

Oh well. I suppose it could have been worse?[/quote]

Sorry to hear it cost you so much

FWIW, I wouldn't go back to them. There is no way the entire power board would need to be replaced, unless perhaps your amp had been in a fire or been crushed by something -- obviously not the case. Very likely one or two components failed, but rather than do the right thing and replace them and test the board, they have just decided to scrap the lot and charge you for a new board. The only level of fault finding worse than this would be to say "Well, your amp is broken, you'll need a new one".

Sorry, but as a former test engineer, stuff like this winds me up.

[algmusic]

[quote name='Huwberry' post='856356' date='Jun 3 2010, 06:00 PM']Got it back today! The total repair bill (the replacement power board, labour, VAT and shipping) was £188.01. The cost of sending it there means it's been on a £200 round trip.

I guess it's one of the perils of buying an expensive piece of equipment second hand... There is one quite annoying detail though - I'd just clawed my way out of my overdraft for the first time since getting one!

Anyway, it's all done now. I'm gonna go play with it. [/quote]


chin up mate.. buying new still may not cover your ass.. you could just miss the warranty on getting it repaired. it is a pain though

[cliffyspliff]

Exactly the same thing has just happend to my Markbass CMD102P its only 4 months old and luckily still under warranty.....so no dust issues.....I spoke to the guy at Proel also though, he told me if the fuse blows where the kettle lead enters the amp you have serious problems and your amp will need to be looked at.....replacing this fuse will not cure your problem....mine blew funnily enough at really low volumes when I was trying a new pedal out in the house....The weight of this combo is great but as a busy bass player can I trust it again at a gig without backup??....which kind of defeats the object of buying an expensive lightweight bit of kit in the first place....