It's a Shuker, but not as we know it.

[mcgraham]

That's looking really slick. You going for gloss or matte? It looks pretty cool with that semi-gloss-semi-matte look going on at present.

Also, is that Jon's updated standard shape? If so I wholeheartedly approve

Mark

[MacDaddy]

[quote name='mcgraham' post='306728' date='Oct 14 2008, 10:26 PM']That's looking really slick. You going for gloss or matte? It looks pretty cool with that semi-gloss-semi-matte look going on at present.

Also, is that Jon's updated standard shape? If so I wholeheartedly approve

Mark[/quote]

My original plan was to go for the kind of oil finish like on Warwicks, but I do think a matt/satin finish looks good too.

No, the body shape is just for me - as far as I know. Maybe Jon has other ideas

[Dood]

[quote name='MacDaddy' post='248026' date='Jul 25 2008, 06:54 PM']Hi
I need a bit of advice. The original plan, was to have an all in one pup cover/ramp/thumb rest running from the bridge to the neck. Having played a few basses with ramps, I'm thinking slapping may be compromised?
Is this the case, or will it just mean an adjustment of technique? Otherwise it will mean having to reshape the pup cover/ramp/thumb rest by the neck, which may destroy the aesthetic [/quote]


You could go for a ramp like on Doodle, between the pups and leave the neck portion free of wood? [url="http://www.danveall.co.uk/Shuker7Page.htm"]http://www.danveall.co.uk/Shuker7Page.htm[/url] Pictures right at the bottom of the build diary.

[Rich]

[quote name='dood' post='310482' date='Oct 20 2008, 02:55 PM']You could go for a ramp like on Doodle, between the pups and leave the neck portion free of wood? [url="http://www.danveall.co.uk/Shuker7Page.htm"]http://www.danveall.co.uk/Shuker7Page.htm[/url] Pictures right at the bottom of the build diary.[/quote]

Or indeed you could have both a ramp [i]and[/i] a satin finish, like my bass

[MacDaddy]

The ramp between the pup thing looks cool, but I'm only having 1 pup. The all in one thing, is as much to keep the aesthetic, as it is practical.
I think scalloping the ramp at the neck is the answer?

Edited October 20, 2008 by MacDaddy

[Dood]

[quote name='MacDaddy' post='310504' date='Oct 20 2008, 03:22 PM']I think scalloping the ramp at the neck is the answer?[/quote]

I think that will look pretty good, yeh!

[MacDaddy]

I've had an update from Jon, I was asking him about the all in one ramp/rest/cover.

[i]Yes I've made a mock -up, just to see how things would fit and how it looks, feels, etc. Its a slightly strange shape but definitely individual. I'll take a pic tomorrow. I have left space for slap access and the front of the cover can be courved down to help this. I've kept the the top edge quite long so theres plenty of thumb rest, I suppose its a kind of curved arrowhead shape.

I've installed the Leds, which are very pink. I tested out quite a few types to see which worked best. Problem was that pink isn't a colour apparently, its a tone, which means it can't be created using conventional LED technology. They use a chemical that reacts to light and makes it appear pink. I read up that some Pink Leds turn a lilac colour over time and if they used at too high a voltage. So I thought a bit of experimentation was in order. These ones look pretty good and are bright too.

I've drilled the extra neck bolt holes (the ones you mentioned before and i forgot!!)

I've yet to do the bend well and string thing part of the neck but I shall get you some pics of the neck / leds so you can see how it looks.[/i]

so things are progressing

[Bassmonster]

good news, must admit looking forward to seeing this one finished......very unique spec

[MacDaddy]

[quote name='Bassmonster' post='348874' date='Dec 8 2008, 05:52 PM']good news, must admit looking forward to seeing this one finished......very unique spec[/quote]

still a lot of work to do.

It's been over a year now.

BTW should mention, when Jon mentions the extra neck bolt holes, it's because I've been influenced by Jens Ritter's philosophy. From the Ritter website:

"The Neck Joint is a very special and mostly totally neglected sound influencing element. It is responsible for the dynamic and speed (Attack) of the bass and also for the string amplitude power consumption (Sustain).

After comparing different constructions (identical wood from the same tree), I developed my ”Multi screw Bold on Neck Joint”. I always use the maximum possible amount of screw per available area.

If you compare this connection physically, you will identify a much faster attack, longer Sustain and a different mid-frequency-range of the instrument.

If you compare this connection acoustically, you will recognize a better dynamic, a faster response and a greater presence within your band.

The reason is a lower absorption of the string amplitude energy, because the absorption area (vibrations-system) is divided into 2 “oscillation-arms” with different lengths, which hardly move with the string frequency."

Edited December 10, 2008 by MacDaddy

[MacDaddy]

Hi guys, time for another update. Jon has done a mock up of the pup cover/rest/ramp and he's gonna send pics of it along with pics of the LED's in the neck. The bendwell still needs carving and he's about ready to do it now.

After a few trial runs, the clamp for the drop D has been done.

We are discussing the LED's controls which I want on a rotary switch rather than a flip switch. I'm thinking pull/push for on and off, and on, flash, and pulse, for the functions.

So pics will be up as soon as I get them.

[Finbar]

I have my LEDs on a dimmer switch. And for what its worth, I reckon I should have just gone for a simple on/off. I never use them at less than full brightness. And practically, would you really use them on pulse/flash settings?

[MacDaddy]

[quote name='Finbar' post='402175' date='Feb 6 2009, 05:03 PM']And practically, would you really use them on pulse/flash settings?[/quote]
Hell yeah! Anything to pose, attract attention, and entertain!

[MacDaddy]

Time for an update. I think the best way to this is to quote from Jon's emails:
[i]
I'm just about ready to carve the neck now, I think I've sorted the D-clamp out ( after several trial runs) and that works well without feeling obtrusive![/i]
[i]
Heres those pics of the leds in action, two of them are a little blurred, i turned off the flash so they stood out. [/i]
[attachment=20507:LED1.jpg]
[attachment=20508:LED2.jpg]
[attachment=20509:LED3.jpg]

I decided on Ebony for the fret board:
[i]Ok I'll see what I can find for the board, it needs to be 32" long. Longer than I've ever had or used (normal boards are 28" and most ebony for boards is cut to this). I shall hav a rummage at the woodyard and email my wood chap in London.[/i]

Discussing the LED controls:
[i]I know what yo mean about the controls, both will look the same. Standard volume and some kind of rotary switch. The rotary switch isn't a problem, I have these, but I don't think a rotary with a push pull switch too is availalble. So I thought maybe one way to solve this could be to have a standard volume control but with a push/pull switch to operate the LED's, the rotary switch could then just set the LED mode (on, flash, pulse). So you could set the mode and use the volume push pull to turn them on and off. Just an option.[/i]

Possible problems with Ebony (BTW the macassar ebony looks stunning):
[i]I spoke to my wood chap in London today, he doesn't have any ebony longer than 700mm and for the bass I'd need 800, although he has put me on to a chap in sussex that may have something in that size, so I shall phone on monday. There is a possibility of some kingwood and rio rosewood, but again it depends on length. macassar ebony isn't a problem, i've got that so if you wish i can send a photo tomorrow.[/i]

[Tait]

this is a great looking bass, it really is. i'm looking forward to seeing it finished. tell jon to hurry up

[MacDaddy]

time for another update!

Jon managed to source some ebony that would be the right size for the fret board - remember it's longer than usual due to the 2 extra frets and the bend-well. He let the wood stand for a couple of weeks after giving it a quick planing up and it's now fine, nice and stable. It's been sanded and he's installed the LED'S which have been fitted inside small brass rings.
He has routed a curve down into the body and will veneer this with ebony so it looks very sleek.

The board was slightly shorter than the rosewood one, so the end of the neck is revealed, but there's still a bit more to do on this. There will be an access hole for the truss rod, but he's still undecided whether to put it here or in the end of the neck, although he says either will be fine.

here's the neck.


showing the LED's in brass rings.


a bit difficult to see, but showing the bend well.

[josh3184]

I like the bend well! Much nicer than simple scallops

[Hamster]

This sort of thing doesn't help me resist getting a custom bass made!!

[MacDaddy]

[quote name='Hamster' post='446812' date='Mar 27 2009, 01:12 AM']This sort of thing doesn't help me resist getting a custom bass made!![/quote]
well savings are doing bu993r all at the moment, so you may as well

[EBS_freak]

Just a few questions about the LEDs?

What the hell is a pulse function?

How does Jon mount the LEDs? Does he insert them prior to the fingerboard being glued?

I'm in two minds about the brass surrounds on the fingerboard. I'm looking forward to seeing them in context on the completed guitar.

Anyway, I'm liking this build thread. I'm watching in anticipation. This is what custom is all about!

Nice stuff.

Edited April 14, 2009 by EBS_freak

[M4L666]

[quote name='EBS_freak' post='461885' date='Apr 14 2009, 10:59 AM']What the hell is a pulse function?[/quote]
Basically, it'll make his bass look like a boy racer . Nah, it means they flash on and off fast, and he's making it so it'll progress up the fretboard.

[MacDaddy]

[quote name='EBS_freak' post='461885' date='Apr 14 2009, 10:59 AM']Just a few questions about the LEDs?

What the hell is a pulse function?[/quote]

[quote name='M4L666' post='461898' date='Apr 14 2009, 11:07 AM']Basically, it'll make his bass look like a boy racer . Nah, it means they flash on and off fast, and he's making it so it'll progress up the fretboard.[/quote]

yep, what M4L666 said


[quote name='EBS_freak' post='461885' date='Apr 14 2009, 10:59 AM']How does Jon mount the LEDs? Does he insert them prior to the fingerboard being glued?

I'm in two minds about the brass surrounds on the fingerboard. I'm looking forward to seeing them in context on the completed guitar.[/quote]
not actually sure about that I can ask him?

[quote name='EBS_freak' post='461885' date='Apr 14 2009, 10:59 AM']Anyway, I'm liking this build thread. I'm watching in anticipation. This is what custom is all about!

Nice stuff.[/quote]

cheers

[EBS_freak]

[quote name='MacDaddy' post='462089' date='Apr 14 2009, 01:23 PM']not actually sure about that I can ask him?[/quote]

I'm intrigued to see if he using the SimS retrofit method or if he put them in at the time of glueing the fretboard on. Both have their advantages and disadvantages - my only concern about the latter though, is ease of access should a LED fail. (Not that I have actually seen one fail under normal operation!)

I've not seen the brass surrounds done on the front face of the neck before - they are usually reserved for the sides... so like I said, it will be cool to see the overall effect when the finished article is all strung up ready to go!

There only appears to be two cable coming from the neck also - I wonder how the pulsing effect is done. Is the circuity housed in the neck too and they are the 9v/18v feed cables? How is the rotary control going to be built in? Obviously this isn't a completed function yet - I'm just curious to see how Jon has implemented his solution!

[MacDaddy]

quick update. We've gone through some designs for the all in one pup cover/ramp/thumb rest, John is working on the final design. There's a bit more to do on the neck, but he's hoping to lacquer it towards the end of next week.

Hoping to have it finished in 4 weeks!



Doh! forgot to ask about the LED's - I'll do that next email I send.

[MacDaddy]

[quote name='EBS_freak' post='462129' date='Apr 14 2009, 01:58 PM']I'm intrigued to see if he using the SimS retrofit method or if he put them in at the time of glueing the fretboard on. Both have their advantages and disadvantages - my only concern about the latter though, is ease of access should a LED fail. (Not that I have actually seen one fail under normal operation!)

I've not seen the brass surrounds done on the front face of the neck before - they are usually reserved for the sides... so like I said, it will be cool to see the overall effect when the finished article is all strung up ready to go!

There only appears to be two cable coming from the neck also - I wonder how the pulsing effect is done. Is the circuity housed in the neck too and they are the 9v/18v feed cables? How is the rotary control going to be built in? Obviously this isn't a completed function yet - I'm just curious to see how Jon has implemented his solution![/quote]

ok Jon's trade secrets! What he does is put them in before the fingerboard goes on usually, it would be possible to do the retrofit style but Jon thinks this way is neater and there's no tell tale routed bits. If he puts them in the board then he drills the holes for them and routs a tiny channel for the wires in the back of the board then hooks it all up, drills a hole through the neck for the two wires and glues the parts together - after testing. For side LED's he routs a channel in the neck for the wires then drills for the LED's once the board is tapered to fit, hooks up all the LED's and wires and glues the two parts together - again after testing.

[EBS_freak]

[quote name='MacDaddy' post='471135' date='Apr 23 2009, 10:31 PM']ok Jon's trade secrets! What he does is put them in before the fingerboard goes on usually, it would be possible to do the retrofit style but Jon thinks this way is neater and there's no tell tale routed bits. If he puts them in the board then he drills the holes for them and routs a tiny channel for the wires in the back of the board then hooks it all up, drills a hole through the neck for the two wires and glues the parts together - after testing. For side LED's he routs a channel in the neck for the wires then drills for the LED's once the board is tapered to fit, hooks up all the LED's and wires and glues the two parts together - again after testing.[/quote]

Ah cool. I thought as much. The only potential problem with this is if an LED goes. I don't know what the steps to remedy that would be. Best not think about it - cross that bridge when you get to it... hopefully, you never will! I'm really interested to see this build - it sounds really cooooool!! Post pics as soon as you can!! 4 weeks?!