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Posted (edited)

Well, seeing as I'm a bass player, i did the sensible thing and got a badass ii for my fender jazz special to replace the stock bbot bridge.

EDIT (stupid phone)

However, this has left me with rather high action, even at the bridge's lowest setting. So what are my options, and how have people resolved this in the past? I don't particularly want to go back down the bent tin avenue again :-|

Is routing the badass into the body an option, or is this stupidly expensive? Is it better to shim the neck? Or even try a different bridge? Any ideas?

Edited by DaveMuadDib
Posted

[quote name='Mr. Foxen' post='908812' date='Jul 29 2010, 01:35 AM']Kinda missing details, but the answer is probably [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=193"]in this thread.[/url]

Reckon you might need a shimming.[/quote]

Mobile basschat has failed me and only displayed half the post. Won't even let me edit it! Apologies :) I'll check out the link when i get home. Think it needs a good experienced set of eyes to have a look.

Posted (edited)

Definitely shim the neck.

Very easy to do and there is a great sticky showing how to do it in the repairs forum.

Edited by dave_bass5
Posted

[quote name='dave_bass5' post='908959' date='Jul 29 2010, 10:00 AM']Definitely shim the neck.

Very easy to do and there is a great sticky showing how to do it in the repairs forum.[/quote]

+1

Posted

Can you cut deeper grooves into the saddles (some of the BA bridges I've had came without any pre-cut groove)? Routing is an option (and I've seen this done to great effect with BAs) but it's not cheap

Posted

Bloomin heck mine is the other way round! My saddles are set up high and the slides they slot into are miles away.Luckily it plays perfect where it is now so its ok but the neck would need to be set deeper into the body (alot) to get them to sit in right. Are there different ones available? Mine is fitted to a Squier rather than Fender so I always presumed the necks are set at different heights,Long term Im going to change the body but Im not sure what for yet? The difference is noticable once you get it set up though so keep at it,And why does the Alleva still have the bean can bent up and chromed on it?

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

You can shim the neck the other way if you need to get the action lower. Put the shim at the neck end of the pocket rather than the body end.

The Badass gives a different sound/feel to the bass. Whether it's a better one is entirely subjective. So long as the bent bit of tin has been updated to stop the saddles from moving sideways when playing hard there's nothing actually wrong with it if that's the sound you want.

Posted

[quote name='stingrayPete1977' post='911189' date='Jul 31 2010, 01:08 PM']And why does the Alleva still have the bean can bent up and chromed on it?[/quote]

'cos it's in keeping with the preCBS vibe that are going for (but with the modern electronics). The higher models come with the Hipshot B type bridge.

Posted

[quote name='stingrayPete1977' post='911189' date='Jul 31 2010, 01:08 PM']why does the Alleva still have the bean can bent up and chromed on it?[/quote]
This is getting a bit OT but I think that the AC LGs come with the bent tin bridge (whatever the designation - classic, classic supreme etc.) - as far as I know, a Hipshot can be fitted but most players prefer the bent tin version. There's an extraordinarily detailed discussion of AC bridges (and bridge development) over on Talkbass. I have to say that neither myself or the other players that have tried my AC LGs have found any problem with sustain. To be honest, ACs appear to be rather well-built instruments with considerable attention to detail - poor sustain hasn't be reported as a problem as far as I know

Posted

Its just bits of wood whoever makes it,High mass bridge is a good answer as it cures the problem and keeps the look but ask anyone who fits a BA (or similar) one how much more sustain they got.I think you have touched a nerve there Russ!

Posted

[quote name='stingrayPete1977' post='926693' date='Aug 16 2010, 05:33 PM']Its just bits of wood whoever makes it[/quote]
Hmmm...not all bits of wood are born equal, neither are they put together the same way. I agree entirely that bridge design, construction and materials can have an impact on sustain (Alembics provide and excellent case in point) and I think that Jimmy Coppolo did quite a lot of work on his bent tin bridge. Whether it's high mass or not, I'm not sure - I'm told that his aim is to build Fender-type instruments that conform fairly closely to original build philosophy and techniques. If you're up in Manchester, you're more than welcome to try mine - I don't think you'll find a problem with sustain at all (maybe this would be 'improved' with the addition of a BA - and indeed, some early ACs were supplied with BAs - but there may be disbenefits of various forms).

Posted

[quote name='ElCapitan' post='927285' date='Aug 17 2010, 10:25 AM']In 30 years I've never had a problem with a stock fender bridge. Am I doing something wrong?[/quote]
Hahaha - to be honest, me neither

Posted

It just depends what you like. I like driving old cars a lot of people hate them,They are just different to modern ones that have progressed. I would enjoy an old jazz bass (or modern version) Just as much as playing a super modern bass but it would make me play differently which is a good thing IMO.There is no doubt the the strings are anchored better and the sustain is better on a larger cast style bridge though.I have had a fender type bridge fall to pieces when I was slapping once and the vintage threaded bar type saddles are gash if your a heavy player.

Posted

When I put a BAII on my highway 1 jazz it was because the original string saddles kept moving.
I did notice an improvement in sustain but i also noticed a change in tone. It's was slight but noticable.
My highway-one P came with one fitted so I've no idea how
Much of a difference a standard fender bridge would make.

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