adjusting fender trussrods from the bridge end of the neck

[essexbasscat]

Apologies for resurrecting a topic that has was around a few months ago. I do remember seeing it, but I can't find it with several different types of searches, so here goes.

I'm looking to adjust a Fender trussrod from the bridge end of the neck, screwdriver slot type. However, I'm not sure about the best way to do this one, as I can see potential flaws with a few different approaches and I'm keen to avoid any potential damage.

The difficulty lies with stabilising the neck while adjusting the trussrod screw. I'm shy of clamp the neck top to bottom in a workmate or similar as I don't want to squeeze the frets. However, this type of clamping would leave one hand free to manually assist the desired direction of releif or bow in the neck, thereby easing the pressure on the adjustment screw.

Would you clamp across the neck ? adjust the trussrod while the backplate screws are only partially slackened off ?

I would definately welcome the voice of experience with this one

Thanks in advance for any advice folks, much appreciated

T

[Clarky]

Hi Tom, I have a couple of Fender basses with truss rod adjustment at that end - a 70 reissue P bass and my 1972 P bass. Its actually very much trial and error and depends whether there is any form of slot at the edge of the pickguard. If there is (like on my 72), I am slightly lazy and loosen the rear plate screws (all of this being done sat on the bed, so no hard surfaces), having loosened the strings a few full tuner turns first. This usually exposes enough of the truss rod screw, I adjust this while supporting the neck with my other hand. Unless the neck is really out of whack a 1/4 turn is usually plenty. Then screw back and leave it half an hour and test. I think clamping everything is just making life difficult for yourself as these are hardy instruments. Unscientific but it has always worked with me.

If there is no pickguard slot (like on my 70 RI) its harder as the entire neck needs removing. I once screwed up here on an earlier bass by taking the neck on and off so much that I stripped the neck plate screws and ended up with the usual stuff-screwholes-with-toothpick solution! Unless the truss rod screw is especially tight and needs tightening further (not necessarily a good sign) you should have enough strength in your arm to support the neck again while turning the truss rod adjuster screw with screwdriver. The bed is your friend here in my humble opinion!

Edited July 30, 2010 by Clarky

[Beedster]

[quote name='Clarky' post='910660' date='Jul 30 2010, 08:44 PM']Hi Tom, I have a couple of Fender basses with truss rod adjustment at that end - a 70 reissue P bass and my 1972 P bass. Its actually very much trial and error and depends whether there is any form of slot at the edge of the pickguard. If there is (like on my 72), I am slightly lazy and loosen the rear plate screws (all of this being done sat on the bed, so no hard surfaces), having loosened the strings a few full tuner turns first. This usually exposes enough of the truss rod screw, I adjust this while supporting the neck with my other hand. Unless the neck is really out of whack a 1/4 turn is usually plenty. Then screw back and leave it half an hour and test. I think clamping everything is just making life difficult for yourself as these are hardy instruments. Unscientific but it has always worked with me.

If there is no pickguard slot (like on my 70 RI) its harder as the entire neck needs removing. I once screwed up here on an earlier bass by taking the neck on and off so much that I stripped the neck plate screws and ended up with the usual stuff-screwholes-with-toothpick solution! Unless the truss rod screw is especially tight and needs tightening further (not necessarily a good sign) you should have enough strength in your arm to support the neck again while turning the truss rod adjuster screw with screwdriver. The bed is your friend here in my humble opinion![/quote]

Mostly agree, but even on basses with no pickguard slot, you can usually do it without completely removing the neck. Undo the back screws more than the front screws, tilt the neck up, use a good quality screwdriver to turn it no more than 90 degrees, replace, and as Clarky says, it's trial and error from there, although make sure you leave it at least 24 hours to settle before re-adjusting

C

[AndyTravis]

Make sure the 'driver you use is of an [u]appropriate[/u] size as smaller ones can take the corners of the 'head' off.

Your Adjustment slots can end up looking dog-eared, making life harder should you need to make adjustments in the future.

I have a nice big flat headed Stanley one for all my 50's/60's and 70's reissues. About 10mm wide, and the 'blade' is about 1.5mm deep.

Main advice - don't go mad, and don't panic.

Edited July 30, 2010 by AndyTravis

[Clarky]

[quote name='Beedster' post='910688' date='Jul 30 2010, 09:02 PM']make sure you leave it at least 24 hours to settle before re-adjusting[/quote]
Agreed, the half an hour comment is just to see whether the neck's still totally out of whack

[essexbasscat]

Hi Clarky and Chris, much appreciated guys

I can see the sense in leaving the adjustment a while to settle down now you both mention it. Hopefully, that process will reduce the need to exert force through adjustment, which will reduce the risk of damage.

The bass is relatively new, so I don't anticipate the truss rod screw to be tough to move through age, but a new instrument don't guarentee much, does it ?

At the moment, I'll approach the job as you've suggested, avoiding the use of any force above a cautious minimum for a max. of a quarter turn of the screw. Anything more than that and it's back to the drawing board for now. I'll keep you all posted as to how it goes

thanks again guys, it's reassuring to hear your thoughts

Tom

[essexbasscat]

Hi Andy and cheers

Yes, I agree, the correct tool for the job is essential in minimising the risk of damage. It's definately worth the time and expense of getting the right size screwdriver for the task, as scuffed up screwheads really do take the 'shine' off an instrument - turns an immaculate instrument into a 'good but could be better'.
I can easily replace scratchplate screws, but a trussrod screw could be a bit more challenging !!

cheers

Tom

[wateroftyne]

If you have to take the neck off, stick a capo on to hold the strings in place.

That way, you just have to pop the neck back on when you're done, drop the strings in the saddles and tune it up. No faffing about restringing it.

Edited July 30, 2010 by wateroftyne

[Clarky]

[quote name='wateroftyne' post='910715' date='Jul 30 2010, 09:29 PM']If you have to take the neck off, stick a capo on to hold the strings in place.

That way, you just have to pop the neck back on when you're done, drop the strings in the saddles and tune it up. No faffing about restringing it.[/quote]
Smart thinking WoT. I often have the strings 'pinging' off the tuners when I adjust the truss rod

[essexbasscat]

[quote name='wateroftyne' post='910715' date='Jul 30 2010, 09:29 PM']If you have to take the neck off, stick a capo on to hold the strings in place.

That way, you just have to pop the neck back on when you're done, drop the strings in the saddles and tune it up. No faffing about restringing it.[/quote]


Damn, wish I'd thought of this a long time ago. What a good idea

[supabock]

On my 70'P bass, I only ever slacken off the strings and take off the scratch plate which exposes the truss rod, then I tighten or loosen accordingly. I have never taken the neck off or released the retaining plate or screws to make this adjustment...
Final adjustment with regrad to intonation and action have been done whilst all (apart from the strings) are in situ.............

[essexbasscat]

[quote name='supabock' post='910731' date='Jul 30 2010, 09:47 PM']On my 70'P bass, I only ever slacken off the strings and take off the scratch plate which exposes the truss rod, then I tighten or loosen accordingly. I have never taken the neck off or released the retaining plate or screws to make this adjustment...
Final adjustment with regrad to intonation and action have been done whilst all (apart from the strings) are in situ.............[/quote]


MMmmmm, I really hope this is the case y'know. It really does depend on how much the trussrod screw is exposed when the pickguard is removed. Hopefully it will be enough to avoid removing the neck, as yours is. That's a nice precison by the way.

Whatever happens, I'm glad everyone's offered their ideas, as I can now approach the whole job with a lot more confidence !!

Cheers

T